Why am I measuring 213 volts on a 240 volt dryer receptacle? Single leg measurements were each 122 volts: hot to ground and hot to neutral
New construction townhome. Not a 3-phase power supply.
Why am I measuring 213 volts on a 240 volt dryer receptacle? Single leg measurements were each 122 volts: hot to ground and hot to neutral
New construction townhome. Not a 3-phase power supply.
Does your SOP require voltage measurements?
Did you check the voltage at the 2 pole circuit breaker? Measure the voltage at the line and load side of the CB.
My client, a 1st time home buyer specifically asked me to confirm the 240v outlet was correct. There was no dryer hooked up. My non-contact lit up but I know better than to rely on that since they often pickup phantom voltage when there is no true voltage present so I measured it.
So now, back to my question…
Interesting that your client even had knowledge of this. Kudos…I guess. Answer their questions as you should.
Unfortunately no, this was a last minute request after everything was already sealed up and we were heading out and wasn’t going back to reopen the PITA cover.
Without some further investigation no one will be able to determine where the problem is. Obviously if you’re getting 122 volt to neutral on both legs then at the receptacle it should read 244 volts.
Perfect, thanks Robert! The 122v on both legs between hot and neutral made me wonder how the heck I’m getting 213v between the two hots. It appears to be a defect and I’m writing it up
What was the phase to phase reading at the panel the same as the receptacle?
Odd, but at my old job, in the factory it had 208 3 phase wye service and this is exactly what we would see.
I’d check voltages across the main lugs in the panel and then check the main bus after the main breaker. If you’re seeing 240 there, then something is certainly amiss.
The immediate question is what was the measurement at the matching breaker?
My first guess is that you had insufficient pressure on your meter leads to make a really good connection to the terminals.
Thanks for the replies y’all. Some must not have seen this part of the thread so I’m reposting my response…
Consider this topic solved. I’d click the “Solved” button but I don’t see one or know how to do that
My first guess is that you had insufficient pressure on your meter leads to make a really good connection to the terminals
My pressure was fine, it wasn’t that.
It appears that this panel has sub-metering which would mean that it did not have a separate utility meter. It can be quite common to have a 1Ø, 120/208 volt panel fed from a 3Ø, 208Y/120 volt service in multi-dwelling buildings.
It appears to be a defect and I’m writing it up
Did you follow thru with the defect narrative while regarding Robert’s last post?
So, I suspect the dryer will operate just fine
Most 240 volt dryers will operate on 208 volts but the heat output is only 75% of the output at 240 volts so it will take longer for the clothes to dry.
Just my 2 cents but I wouldn’t be writing this up unless I first know that the system voltage is actually 120/240 volts.
know that the system voltage is actually 120/240 volts.
As a generalist, conclusively identifying all voltages present or available in commercial/multi-unit buildings can be a slippery slope. You have helped me in a few of these cases, and the slope is still just as slippery for me
I am curious why this customer focused on the dryer voltage. It almost appears to be a “gotcha moment”. Hmmmm…
As a generalist, conclusively identifying all voltages present or available in commercial/multi-unit buildings can be a slippery slope.
In the OP I see a photo of the panel with no cover. When looking in the panel for potential problems does the HI normally check the voltage of the panel? Doesn’t the voltage system typically go in the inspection report?
When looking in the panel for potential problems does the HI normally check the voltage of the panel?
No, we are not required to place anything inside the panel.