AFCI indicators are considerably larger and more expensive than ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) indicators that I am used to and are of questionable effectiveness. For these reasons, they are not used as widely as GFCI indicators. This has been new information for me.
In this photo is an example of an incorrect install of a radon mitigation exhaust vent. In this photo Per epa standards radon midigation exhaust should be at least 10 above the ground level and 10 way from any interior opening, ideally above the homes roof line. In this case, it can be assured that radon midigation exhaust gas will gain re-entry into the habitable space.
When should a home have radon mitigation? There are standards set by the EPA that a homeowner should follow and to consider when deciding on whether or not to mitigate. While no level of radon is harmless. It is recommended by the EPA that a certified test result above 4-pCi/l is proven to be harmful that mitigation is a must. A result lower than 4-pCi/l the EPA still recommends mitigation for optimal health within the home. It is also recommended that if the initial test is elevated above 4-pCi/l that a second test be performed and the average of the two be considered(best if the duration be as long as possible for the most accurate, test 2-91 days.).There are proven and effective mitigation practices that remove radon from the home but it is highly recommend to employ a qualified and certified radon mitigation contractor for an effective radon mitigation. the national cost average ranges from $800-$2500 depending on your location and mitigation needs.
kills thousands of Americans every year. Smoking, radon, and second-hand smoke are the leading causes of lung cancer. Although lung cancer can be treated, the survival rate is one of the lowest for those with cancer. From the time of diagnosis, between 11 and 15% of those afflicted will live beyond five years. In many cases, lung cancer can be prevented, and this is especially true for radon.
which can encourage the growth of mold, wood decay, or other s material problems. Sometimes they will terminate just beneath attic ventilators. This is a defective installation. They must terminate at the exterior and away from a door or window.
The attached photo shows an access hole through a poured slab to enable installation of a radon mitigation system. The access point is deep enough and has been enlarged beneath the sub-slab vapor barrier to allow for a gravel filled pit as a precaution against future stoppages or clogging of the 4" vent pipe. The home owner has chesen to not fill in the concrete until a later date when a basement level bathroom will be installed which will require the concrete in this specific area to be removed a second time. The concern with this process is the use of inappropriate plastic bags and incomplete sealing of joints to ensure a more adequate vacuum under the slab.
Viewing the pictures in the indoor air quality section, specifically the air pressure iside the home illustrations, brought renewed focus on the need for proper sealing at the exterior and base levels of a home. Preventing the inflow of air that can create a stack effect in the air flow of a home is critical in preventing the migration of radon from lower to upper levels of the home. It is a good reminder that making sure fundamental building practices, such as properly sealing all wall and foundation penetrations, can have far reaching consequeces in protecting the health of the home owner. While the course is about radon the ultimate priority in our role as inspectors is to provide the knowledge for homeowners to make sound decisions about their home.
In this photo you can see that a large section of the wall was cut out to run pipes into a bathroom. There is no type of sealing attempted around the pipes, therefore this is a potential concern for radon entry into the home.
The article I chose to study is titled, “Poison Ivy, Oak, and Sumac”. I learned that that burning any of these plants can cause vapors to travel long distances, and can be very dangerous, even potentially life-threatening. I also learned that the Urushiol Oil, which is the allergen that causes reactions - is found in every part of the host plant, therefore the roots, stems, and leaves can all carry the risk of a reaction if touched.
Crawl spaces should be line with a 6-mil plastic sheet as a barrier to help reduce moisture and radon levels. In newly constructed homes, it is far more cost-effective to install radon systems as opposed to installing them after construction is complete. In existing homes, air should be tested before any radon mitigation systems are installed. After installation, air should be tested again to determine effectiveness of radon mitigation system.
It is important to document and take notes regarding the installation of radon test devices. Documentation regarding installation location, type of radon measurement device used during testing, amount of radon test devices and basic information about the home/property should be collected and provided to the client, as well as a service agreement and scope of radon test procedures.
The continuous Radon monitor has been set in a basement bedroom and is greater than one foot from any exterior wall. It is 30 inches from the floor. It is greater than four inches from any surrounding objects. It will be ran for 48 hours under closed conditions. If the results are 4.0 pCi/L or higher, mitigation is recommended according to the EPA.
Radon mitigation during a real estate transaction should be conducted on the lowest liveable floor. Closed home conditions should be kept twelve hours prior to the testing. The party responsible for the home during the Testing period should be informed of the closed home conditions that should be kept. They should also be made aware of the tampering evidence device included with the monitor.
During my inspection today the home had a mitigation system that went trough the roof and the pipe with the gauge was in the garage. The system was a few years old so the new buyer asked to have a radon company come out to test the levels again. So the radon company was there during the inspection and was explaining how the system worked and that having the home tested every two years was Recommended. They buyer and I did learn a lot from the Radon Tech today
During my inspection today the home had a mitigation system that went trough the roof and the pipe with the gauge was in the garage. The system was a few years old so the new buyer asked to have a radon company come out to test the levels again. So the radon company was there during the inspection and was explaining how the system worked and that having the home tested every two years was Recommended. They buyer and I did learn a lot from the Radon Tech today
During my inspection today the home had a mitigation system that went trough the roof and the pipe with the gauge was in the garage. The system was a few years old so the new buyer asked to have a radon company come out to test the levels again. So the radon company was there during the inspection and was explaining how the system worked and that having the home tested every two years was Recommended. They buyer and I did learn a lot from the Radon Tech today
This is the radon mitigation system vent pipe that was installed in my garage. It was installed by a mitigation company as part of the mitigation system. This portion of the pipe has a visible Manometer to display the water column (suction) It also has a fire collar installed to maintain the firewall integrity.
I viewed a picture of double tapped breakers. I learned that it is not allowed to double tap a breaker. Double tapping can cause wires to come loose. When electricity flows through the wires it can cause them to expand and contract.
A radon system is installed in the house in the southwest corner. The 4" pipe is visible coming up through the basement floor, exiting through the acoustic tile ceiling. From there it has an elbow fitting and exits to the exterior of the house. There is an exterior fan and vertical 4" PVC piping extending up to soffit. In general, the work on the system looks properly done. It should be noted that the sump pump did not have a proper cover sealing it, and this could explain the lower than average pressure reading on the gauge visible in the photograph. We will be doing a short-term charcoal canister Radon test in the home and the results may indicate if this mitigation system requires further evaluation by a licensed mitigation specialist.
When I look at the exterior of a house I am inspecting, I like to use a macro-micro approach. From a macro perspective, I like to stand as far back as practical from the home on as many sides as are practical and get a sense of whether it appears level and plumb, especially in relation to its neighbors. I look at the grading from that distance and get a sense of whether it slopes away from or toward the house on any side. I look at the roof’s ridge to see if it appears straight. I look for any bays or other protrusions from the house to see if there’s any sagging. Those are just some examples of things I might not notice if I was very close to the house. From there, I begin a micro inspection of the house, first walking clockwise and then counterclockwise, inspecting all the exterior components in the Standards and noting their condition and performance. These would include things like the electric service entrance and drip loop, the condition of exterior walkways and stairs, visible portions of the foundation, the siding, soffits and trim, whether it has soffit venting, gutters and downspouts and where they direct water, and many other exterior components. By always observing this macro-micro approach I know I’m reducing the chance I might miss something in the inspection.