I chose the Radon Gas library article. The buyer of a home is the primary decider on where to locate the test, but the Tester should advise the buyer of the best location based on the lowest level of the home that could be used for occupancy.It is not advisable to test in a kitchen, bathroom, laundry room or hallway. Usually, the buyer decides where to locate the radon test, based on their expected use of the home. The buyer and seller should discuss and agree on the location of the test to avoid any misunderstanding.
This is an active, properly working mitigation system installed in a house that I inspected. It was working correctly because the meter was reading a negative reading. My clients wanted me to run a test anyway just to confirm what the levels were. The retest results were 0.2pc/l and therefore the system was working correctly.
I chose radon gas (focused on the consumer). This article covers what the EPA suggested upper limits of radon exposure is for a household prior to installing a mitigation system. It also suggests to all home buyers that a radon test should be conducted whenever buying a house. It stated several statistics as to how many cases of lung cancer can be possibly tied to radon gas exposure.
This is a photo of a (non conforming) basement bedroom in a house that has never been tested for radon. This house would most definitely be a candidate for a radon test due to people sleeping in the basement every night.
Today I read an article about rafter ties and collar ties. Explained simply, collar ties are located in the upper third of the rafters and prevent the tops of the rafters from spreading. Rafter ties are in the lower third and prevent the bottoms of the rafters from spreading. Ceiling joists are commonly also used as rafter ties.
this picture shows two components of a radon mitigation system, a sealed sump used to create negative pressure below the slab and at the very top the manometer used to show that the fan on this active system is creating vacuum. During an inspection, the cap on the sump should be checked for a proper seal and the manometer should be showing the proper amount of vacuum for the installed mitigation system.
I chose to read “Adjustable Steel Columns,”
by Nick Gromicko and Kenton Shepard. Being an inspector in Maine, I see a lot of various materials used as posts and columns in basements. This article provided some basic points to visually evaluate load supporting columns. On future inspections, if columns are present with more than 3 inches of thread exposed, I will call this out in my report.
This is a section drawing of a typical radon active mitigation system installed through home and exhausted through roof. The system must terminate above eves of second floor. Care is needed to install proper roof flashing. Fan maybe installed in attic with this type of install.
Roof flashings are the most important part of roofing. If flashing is not properly installed it can be an on going problem for the life of the roof.Kick out flashing are the most common flashing I find not installed, or not properly installed.
The attached image is of a radon mitigation system installed in conjunction of a sump pit. There are several important items to note. First, is the label, and gauge indicating that it is a radon mitigation system, and that it is properly functioning. Secondly, is the sealed sump pit cover. This allows for the system to properly seal. Finally, is the rubber hub connector on the main line. This allows for the line to be disconnected to allow for servicing of the sump pump.
I chose the architectural drawing of slab on grade installation of a radon mitigation system. This was an area of interest due to the fact that slab on grade is less common in my part of the United States. Seeing how a less common installation is constructed was interesting, and how it is very similar to all other construction types.
Basement slab removal in attached picture and left exposed can increase stack effect in building. in this case radon level measurements will not represent actual level of radon in normal occupancy. Test if required haw to be made after renovations works will be finished.
Homes with radon mitigation may have more value in real estate market. To confirm the mitigation is sufficient radon level have to be tested, it is recommended to perform tests before selling home. If radon levels are below 4 pci/l home is considered safe.
I was amazed to discover how easily it is for radon to enter a home. One easy path is a sump pump. The access point allows the gas to enter via the same drainage tile used to keep water out. I wonder how one could possibly seal a sump pump housing enough to keep radon out. A better solution in my opinion would be to let it be moved to another mitigtion system to prevent entrance from ever happening.
Radon
Home buyers and home sellers guide to radon.
Anyone looking to buy or sell a home should be proactive and invest in a radon test if the home in question has not recently been tested or mitigated.
Being the second leading cause of lung cancer, and how little the cost is to measure and mitigate, most homeowners should educate themselves and others in the importance of doing this simple proactive step.
The EPA has set the limit of Radon gas inside the home at 4 pCi/L. If your home exceeds this limit it is strongly advised to install a Radon mitigation system in order to bring the levels of Radon inside the home below 4 pCi/L.
Radon is a cancer causing gas that cannot be smelled, tasted or seen. Radon is estimated to cause about 21,000 deaths in the US annually and is the second leading cause of lung cancer in the US behind smoking. The EPA recommends that all homes be tested for radon.
This is a domestic hot water tank flue that I have checked for proper draft to assure the house is not improperly pressurized causing backdraft of combustion gases. The normal operation of the flue is move harmful combustion products up the flue and carrying them to an external exit point.
When preparing a home to be as comfortable as possible you must set up and align the air barrier and thermal barrier. Both of these barriers must be continuous and in alignment. The result of an improper set up will allow thermal movement to easily occur robbing you of heated or cooled air that you pay for to maintain a certain comfort level. It also allows heat, air, and moisture to move in areas where it shouldn’t and therefore lends to issues of health and safety concerns.
