After more than two decades in construction, I will also back Bubba. If Robert doesnt like the tone of the subject, he can turn the fricken channel.
Mr B from Great Lakes! Hope your doing well man. How’s business?
Whenever I get the chance, I do indeed recommend you Mr B and recommend homeowners to find a Nachi pro, yeppers. 
2 cents on MY dang waterproofing guarantee.
20 years, period…on whatever wall or part of wall we waterproof.
I don’t and won’t talk them into anything more than what they need at THAT point in time.
On the other hand, if they just hit the lotto or, are going to redo the basement then yeah, if they wanna spend a bit more to get a bit more done, find wif me.
If I think part or possibly all of their problem/leak is due to 1+ openings in, around,under a basement window or door etc then, I tell them, I show them, run a dang water test BEFORE 1 cent is spent!
When I started out in this business, most outside guys offered 5 or 10 yr guarantees, a few offered a 1 yr guarantee. (yes one) :mrgreen:
Then in late 70’s, more n more started doing INTERIOR systems and of course, started offering (am being nice) 20-25 or lifetime guarantees…to make it appear, sound like, what they did was better etc. Needless to say, all bulsht.
Anyways, I would have never dreamed to offer 20-25 yrs or a lifetime guarantee as I was just starting out…eh. To me, several things may run through some homeowners minds, one is, ‘How do we know this guy will be around long enough (in the business) to see this supposed lifetime guarantee through’.
Have seen many start out in this business, I bet most with good intentions early on and then, sht happens. Like they begin to get call backs on their jobs, some can’t find the REAL, INITIAL problem 'cuz they’re new/rookie.
Tell ya, it does not sound good to ANY homeowner to tell them they need waterproofing on 1 or whatever part of a wall or someone installed an interior system and THEN, they find out when it still/continues to leak AFTER somebody talked them into waterproofing a wall etc, that ALL they needed to do was to replace a basement window, THAT was the ENTIRE problem, was WHY-where water was entering.
OR, after someone talked them into waterproofing the chimney wall or put some dumb az interior system in, they still leak and find out ALL they needed was tuckpointing etc ABOVE ground That doesn’t bode well for future reference(s).
Some go back to those call backs and redo an area and then get another call back++ from same homeowner(s). See above, got milk?
Some find out this isn’t an easy gig. We hand dig, so it will kick yer azz in time.
Not against using machines on ‘some’ jobs but there’s added RISK, more bad shtt can/could happen using equipment but I guess, as long as whoever is operating the equipment ISN’T on 10 pounds of heroin, should be ok…eh.
Some find out they should have had INSURANCE before x-amount of problems arose…and so on.:mrgreen:
I lost my last post and will leave with this, John there are all types and degrees of workmanship.
I worked the trenches and wish I could showed you how I repaired foundation cracks. I lost tens of thousands of images of my work.
I’d make you my whipping boy by your degree of thinking.
Have I, no mate but could have slammed you may times.
All the best in your endeavor’s John. Doing something proficiently does not make you professional, that takes education.
Best regards.
Robert
Huh? :-k WooooW
‘Whipping boy’ eh? Really :mrgreen:
So THAT is ‘professional’ eh.
You could have slammed me etc…well then, if it’ll make you feel better, please do so! lolol
Regardless of my shtt on here, my ‘unique’ style (Loolololll!!) on here and other mb’s, in person am as professional as any bubblehead waterproofing company on the planet. Yeah right man, thanks for all your blessings!
I find myself once again having to defend by video and waterproofing technics from Judge John.
I will cover every statement that you have made one by one, so this may take a while.
First of all “How long is a lifetime warranty?” Whose lifetime are we talking about? Are we talking about the lifetime of the product? The lifetime of the current home owner, or perhaps even my lifetime?
“A company that offers a lifetime warranty must STATE in years-or how it can be determined.”
Most people would agree that 25 years can be considered a lifetime. A life sentence in most states is 25 years. If you google lifetime warranty you will find all sorts of variations on its timeline.
So do you got the milk this time? A lifetime warranty does not mean any paticular individuals lifespan!
Now as far as other companies in my area offering the same warranty, I say it is about time that some have stepped up to the plate and back their work. However, the clients that I talk to, tell my they choose my services because I am the only one with the confidence to offer this warranty. Last I heard the longest warranty offered by my competitors was only 10 years, and full of stipulations on rainfall amounts.
And on to the next one!
Now for those of you that say the product that I use “An Air Gap Waterproof Membrane” is only meant for damp proofing & not for waterproofing; here are some of the PROVEN advantages to using these products. 1.) Provides Double Leakage Protection- holds wet soil away from the wall & provides drainage as needed.
2.) Bridges Foundation Cracks- permanently bridges foundation cracks, and keeps working even if walls shift or settle.
3.) Versatile- works on blocks, poured concrete, permanent wood, ICF & existing foundations.
4.)Guaranteed Performance- 30 year product warranty when used as a foundation wrap.
5.) Unlike conventional tar & spray waterproofing methods, any water that finds its way past the membrane flows through the air gap to the footing drain, not into the basement.
6.) Wall moisture condenses on the back of the product and flows to the footing drain. This dries out the foundation in a way that no other technology can match!
(As you probably know, concrete takes a long time to completely dry out once saturated with water penetration).
These products are TESTED & sold as a Foundation Waterproofing Membrane and they work!
Without having to gouge people extra by having them believe that all the soil around their house needs to be hauled away and its volume replaced with all gravel. That is just nonsense.
Some gravel is needed of course, but not all.
And this nonsense about a foundation not being able to support soil up against it, only gravel, is also complete nonsense.
I have heard enough from John about all his experience.
I come from generations of home builders, I am privy to some of the best knowledge in the industry. I really do not need any of his tips or derogatory remarks.
Been doing just fine for generations without him. Please by all means check out my record with the local BBB, there are no complaints reguarding my company not honouring our warranty.
Again, I provide high quality & affordable foundation repairs and waterproofing services. I take pride in my work. I get personal satisfaction from delivering what I promise to my clients. That is a dry basement everytime period.
By the way happy thanksgiving to everyone on your side of the border!
The leak was never from the window itself, it was from the crack and hydrostatic pressure under the window. Of course, I am not going to recommend someone dig up there basement if I thought it was only a leaky window problem.
Honestly, I am wondering about the attention span of some of these posters on here. If you were to really watch the video, you would have seen the foundation crack below the window being repaired.
Also, did John Bubber say that he only excavates foundations by hand with a shovel? No way!
And he is suppose to be a big time waterproofing contractor? Very sorry John, but that is a complete joke for a professional waterproofing contractor that does this for a real living. How many are you able to complete in a given year? About 2 I am guessing. Now that is Funny! Do you have a little wagon too? Ha ha ha he ha ha! I love it. I wonder if anyone ever told John that people who live in tiny glass houses, should not through stones.
Hi there, Mr. Young.
Thank you so much for your support! I was starting to feel a bit bullied on here by nay sayers.
It is good to know there are still some with open & intelligent minds on here as well.
As for my critics, I still have more videos that I will be releasing on a regular basis. I am sure to be hearing from them again soon. Or if they don’t like it they can change the fricken channel too!
Sincerely,
Dan Weaver
Was kind of hoping you were done and maybe read some of the articles written by others posted on several threads and eyeballed the many photos also posted that clearly back those articles and my thoughts but apparently that’s not the case. Was hoping you might want to LEARN a bit more. Your inexperience on THIS subject sir, is clearer the more you post…yep.
Obviously that’s not the case so here we go…post by post
You bring up a lifetime warranty.
A 25 year warranty is a #-o…25 year warranty! ](*,)
25 years is not lifetime, sheesh.
Why even claim/say you offer a lifetime warranty? Why not just tell people you you guarantee your work for 25 years? Whats so hard about that.
And i’m not going to spend more time calling etc your competitors to find MORE of them who offer a lifetime warranty…there ARE at least 2 others who offer a lifetime warranty in your city/area, period.
…30 year product warranty when used as a WRAP.
That doesn’t mean/state its a 30 year warranty as a waterproofing SEALANT, got that?
…‘any water that finds its way past the membrane flows through the air gap to the footing drain, not into the basement’…AND…‘PERMANENTLY bridges foundation cracks…even if the wall shifts or settles’
No, so sorry. The reality is, some of the water that gets BETWEEN that membrane and the wall can find its way into a basement through cracks etc that should have been thoroughly sealed/waterproofed INSTEAD of assuming and relying on a membrane that does NOT ‘stick’ aka ADHERE to the wall’
That’s why its very important how ya seal the wall/cracks in the first place and, how you backfill and WITH WHAT ya use as backfill (ALL gravel, from footing all the way up is BEST)…not what you do which is backfill with about 2’ of gravel and then use/backfill the rest with the same, usually crappy, soil. That is NOT what is BEST for the basement wall, not whats best for the homeowner.
It can’t truly ‘bridge’ a crack and certainly won’t PERMANENTLY bridge any possible future cracks because AGAIN, it does not ‘stick, adhere’ to the wall, from top to bottom, end to end, no sir. Say again, its ‘placed’ against the wall, it does not STICK PERMANENTLY to–the–wall!
Your, ‘privy to the best knowledge in the industry’?
It’s quite apparent to me this is simply untrue sorry. Just telling it likes it is.
If your privy to the best knowledge in this industry then why did you just say that you think its ‘NONSENSE that all the soil does NOT need to be hauled away’ and its some gravel is needed but not all.
And you said its ‘complete nonsense that foundation walls can’t support the soil against it’
And how do you know whether or not any builder used reinforcing steel/rod in any walls?
Jesus man, lolol, many foundation walls crack then leak or bow in DUE TO the soil against them. It’s called lateral soil pressure aka horizontal pressure and have posted many photos of what can and does happen to quite a few foundation walls which again (sheesh) is crack, leak bow in due==to the expansive soil piled against them, Sometimes cracks etc can be due to a combination of the SOIL and sometimes underground tree roots or porch footings or concrete slabs etc.
How is this, ‘complete nonsense’ ??
Scroll down about 1/2 way to…Basement Wall Damage
http://www.fairfaxcounty.gov/dpwes/publications/marineclay.htm
Basement Wall Damage, CAUSE and Resolution…
Damage to foundation walls is caused when marine clays are used as BACKFILL…damage is caused from the yearly cycles of PRESSURE exerted by shrinking and swelling…RESOLUTION…the clay MUST be REMOVED and replaced with sandy or gravelly soils…got it?? :-k
That’s about as an unbiased opinion as your going to find
They say, the clay MUST be removed…then replaced with sand, gravel.
That is whats BEST.
Not a half azz’d backfill such as using around 4’ of clay etc, as you showed in the video! Got it?
Because agaiiiiiiiin, when YOU place round 4’ of clay n other crap back in against the wall, that 4’ will again, expand and contract, its swells and shrinks REGARDLESS of the dumb az grade!!! Yeah shtt sure, a sloped grade helps somewhat but, that clay is going to repeatedly shrink and swell again, year after year. uh huh. :mrgreen:
Please try to remember we do not live in a perfect world.
If he offers a warranty, than he is better than the rest.
There are manufacture’s of all varying grades of products. As long as you do your best and follow the manufactures recommendation of application then he has preformed his end.
Try not to talk down to people, I just did the same thing on a thread and upon reflection my tact could have been softer.
Regards.
Robert
To add to you using/backfilling same excavated clay soil against walls…
U S Army Corps of Engineers, what do they say here…
Foundation movement, Causative factors
http://www.amherst.ny.us/pdf/building/soilsstudy/TOASFS_section3.pdf
Alot here so, here’s a tad…
3.2 Lateral Wall Pressure
Four sources likely contributed to lateral wall pressure on basement walls…
- Pressure from soil weight
- Pressure from soil swell
- Hydrostatic pressure
- Pressure from frost
3.2.1 Symptoms
…the bowing generally occurs when external forces exceed the wall strength…
Cracking can also occur when stresses induced by lateral pressure exceed the strength of the CONCRETE or CMU wall.
Got any of that sir?
3.4.5 Backfill
…lateral pressure PROBLEMS are EXASPERATED by using unsuitable backfill materials, usually from on-site excavation.
…expansive soil…generally not recommended for backfill material.
This says, ‘Here’s what BUILDERS know about foundation problems…’
Well, lolol, not ALL builders eh ;-):mrgreen: , not all are ‘privy’ to this knowledge #-o
http://www.renovateyourworld.com/HowTo_Library/Why_Foundations_Fail-Foundation-A2095.html
…‘Often however, the biggest load on the foundation is not the weight of the house, but the PRESSURE of the SOIL…’
‘Coarse-grained, well drained soils like sand and gravel apply the LEAST lateral load. while fine silts and clays apply MORE’ (umm, remember what Fairfax county said, REMOVE clay…backfill with sand/gravel…NOT 3-4’ of same shtty excavated soil)
COMPACTION…Dan, you compact so maybe add this to your memory bank
‘…the problem is the pressure from the compacting process gets transmitted through the soil TO the WALL. Basement walls have been known to CRACK…AFTER compaction, soil is under compression like a spring and CONTINUES to PUSH against the foundation (Got that?)…sands and gravels compact more readily than silts or clays, creating LESS of this springlike force–one more GOOD REASON to USE them for backfilling’
…'During construction, bulldozers and trucks that come near a basement wall can add enough surcharge pressure to DAMAGE the wall…even parked cars can cause trouble
Need more? Plick and Associates, engineers
Page 3
http://www.plickandassociates.com/newsletters/Mar06.pdf
…'Basement walls are subject to lateral pressure from the WEIGHT OF THE SOIL PILED AGAINST the exterior…the strength of a wall is determined by its construction(umm, if reinforcing rod was used, strength of the concrete, top wall support etc)…
And add John McEwen’s knowledge to the above…
Fixing your wet/damp basement http://www.johnmcewen.ca/waterproof.php
Here we go again…
Talk down to him? Hmmmm. Did he not talk down to me, lol. Please!!!
Who came on here again, talking crap and claiming they don’t need any tips etc without bothering to read, learn anything, claiming they are privy to all the best knowledge etc, what a bunch of crap man!!! And your backing huh? lolol
Hmmm maybe its a Canadian thing or maybe you 2 are friends etc but whatever it is, he cannot possibly know everything about this subject when he’s only been at it, 2-3 years, please!!! Hence, maybe he’s best served by stop making quite a few goofy-incompetent claims! I’m not backing off of the facts or truth on this subject Robert so, don’t know what to tell you baby. Do your thing and Bubba will do his.
Morning John.
I am not backing anything or anyone John…
I observe homes and as you know mined for loam to expose foundation and drainage issues. It was not my mainstay, I did the whole envelope.
He will learn with a good teacher. I doubt brow beating helps anyone.
I never used antitramp but did use wraps, blue skin. My thing was 3’ feet of clean aggregate up the wall wrapped in geo fabric. no water could get behind the wrap. Now they use vertical drainage plains.
Best regards.
Back to Dan’s questions etc…
I didn’t say the window leaked…I said IF the window or any window leaks, jesus
Attention span huh? Ok buddy boy, tired of your crap.
Your incompetent, you THINK you know everything about this subject, somehow magically learned it all in 2 or 3 years, total bulshhtt. Now you got called out for some of your shtt and you and your buddy from Canada don’t like it, well too dang bad, BOO fcg HOO…man up or shut it down, jesus k.
Dan said, asked, ‘Did John Bubber say he only excavates by hand with a shovel?
No way’
Eh Danny, I/we have excavated BY HAND for 36 years, damn right, photos and thousands of homeowners to prove exactly THAT! Just because YOU can’t or don’t want to do it doesn’t at all mean some of us others don’t do it and for quite a few good reasons, obviously not that YOU understand. 99.99% of all jobs done by hand digging and hand backfilling them, that’s right.
See, there YOU go again, assuming and INCORRECTLY thinking and stating YOU know ALL, when its soo obvious your so far away
Dan also asks/quips, ‘Do you have a little wagon…’? Answer is, if I did YOU would be sitting on the back of the little wagon because Danny, that’s where you belong at this point in time. I might put yer az in a skirt too if you keep yer bs going here, eh? lol
Dan asks, how many jobs do we do in a year…2?’
The answer is duhhh, depends on the amount of calls we get/estimates i run and how many of thos homeowners hir us OR, hire an INEXPERIENCED person like you Dan or, falls for and hires the other incompetent sob in this businesss, the inside system az ho’s. Also depends on the number of big-jobs we get, as hand digging/waterproofing 100’+ jobs takes longer, eh.
So Danny, my quick guess is, on average over 3 1/2 decades i’d say about 150 per year using 30’ as an overall average job over the years, taking 1 day to do that 30’. Some days we’ve done/waterproofed 4-5 different SMALL jobs, the 5=6’ digs.
Duuhhh ummm, say someone needs 130’ ish ft done, all the way around so, that would take all week.
Most weeks, its a lot of one day jobs, might be several 5-6’ jobs (1 crack), might be 1 wall that is 6’ deep by 30’ long, takes one day.
Prolly run 2–4 times,maybe more, ESTIMATES per week including over the winter but quite a few of those estimates turn out to be just a leak/problem with a basement window or a door or tuckpointing or they just need a plumber to snake the lateral line so duhhh obviously if one is HONEST and thorough then they don’t get any of those leads/calls because the homeowners don’t need us, they don’t need any waterproofing, got that?
I’ve seen many other jobs done, some by good co’s such as Capizzo etc and many shtthead incompetent jobs previously done by inside system co’s and some by shtty exterior contractors, have photos of them too. And if anyone thinks the amount of jobs done, inside or outside makes someone better, they are completely mistaken. Not when someone has 25 or 30+ yrs experience and no complaints etc who may have done 5,000 less jobs versus some azz wipe who has done more but has/gets 20++ complaints and those are just those homeowners willing to go through all the CRRRRAP and TIME to make complaints/sue azz ho companies every year. I’ll put my azz/knowledge or John M or Marcel or Capizzo and a few others azz up against anyone of this planet, on site or in COURT.
I will not do any waterproofing in the winter when its colder than 35 ish degrees.
I noticed YOU do Dan.
Know why?
Because the manufacturer of the thick tar I use clearly states, its best NOT to use this product at temps below 35 degrees etc and, hydraulic cement doesn’t set up as good and other common sense reasons Dan.
I never have, never wanted to have/run several crews per day, per week, nope. Know why?
One thing is, I always want to be there, on site throughout, yes Dan I still hand dig at 55, yep, all the way down etc.
I don’t want 2 or 5 others crews going when MY az isn’t there, on site throughout.Quick abrupt problems can arise…cave in, possible cave ins etc so since its my azz, my guarantee then I am going to be there, period. It isn’t about trusting my other guys, it isn’t about making a boatload of money, as it is for many other owners in this biz.
See man, I run ALL estimates, its my insurance, my state license and my g dang guarantee to each homeowner hence, i’ll be there digging etc every job until I physically cant dig, then ill just ‘wheel’ but ill be there.
Since I run every estimate Dan, there are underground lines my guys obviously won’t know exactly where they are, how they run underground so, that’s just another good reason i’m there, MANY owners in this business are not, in fact, they don’t run any estimate, they’re hardly if ever on any job site and if they are, they’re there for 10 minures, got it?
Some jobs I want the trench dug a certain way to help prevent a cave in eh. So while I trust my main-guys a lot, not the part timers so much, do to their experience in/on all matters. Some trenches/areas we dig there will be more underground roots or sometimes the soil is more apt to cave in, its loose crap and may not be any underground roots and may be 8–10+ deep so, its not about trusting my main guys cuz they do a super friggin job…its because I want shtt the way I want it, my EXPERIENCE overrides theirs, got it?
Some jobs we find the ENTIRE wall or part of the foundation wall was backfilled with all concrete (2 x 2 ish or bigger pieces), some we’ve dug out it was all BRICKS. Some we’ve dug out, someone previously poured 2-3’ (that’s feet not inches) or more concrete against the wall. (Had nothing to do with that wall or part of wall needed some supposed concrete reinforcement poured outside, bulshtt), and so on. There’s been a handful on jobs on drive-side or patio where i started saw cutting 18" off and found rerod IN most or all concrete slabs that was ATTACHED to/went through the dang basement wall or, bricks just above the foundation wall!@!@! The idiot contractor who did this dumb crap CAUSED cracks in the wall and/or bricks above the wall subsequently causing water to then get in basement…they CAUSED all problems AND, lolol, a few of there were OKAYED/passed city inspection!!!
I see Dan in your vid’s, you are not IN any of the holes, least not on tape eh.
I’m IN every g dang hole, sealing the wall(s) with Hyd cement, tar etc…and only fairly recently do I allow 1, rarely 2 of my other guys IN the holes, know why?
Because id don’t want any possible cave in to smash THEM, if it caves it’ll be my azz, got it?
I have insurance, state licensed too…Dan how about you? Not that any piece of paper/license OR any permit means ANY work is or will be done correctly. That’s a bunch of bulshht too.
Know wtf I care about Dan?
I care about each g dang homeowner and their problem(s) and, I care about my g dang guys and, I will ONLY bid on leads/calls where the homeowner actually needs us/exterior waterproofing.
I don’t bulshhtt ANYONE, not 1 g dang homeowner have I ever bid a lead/job when I know they only have say, a gap under their side door sill and that’s where/how the wate ris getting in, I show them, explain it to them run a water test if they don’t GET IT and I wish them luck and move on. Could have easily bs’d many homeowners who only had 1+ crevice/gap under a basement window etc to get many more jobs to make more $$$ and then claim we waterproofed that many more (that never had a problem with the wall in first place!)
Many will NOT do that!! Many will tell homeowners they need 1/2 wall done or 1++ wals done when they absolutely do not, im talking inside system az ho’s ans some outside az ho contractors!
Here’s a small little job, yep, we hand dig em all. Poured foundation wall, crack, open leaky rod holes and couple other openings…B Dry had tried bs’g homeowner and would have cost homeowner MORE for inside system sht
http://picasaweb.google.com/101049034584960315932/BasementWaterproofing35
Click each picture to enlarge.
1-2 The house and side of house where problem/leak is.
2-4 2 pic’s inside basement, crack and MOLD behind drywall…and so on.
Look at those photos of MOLD in above link and look at photos of mold on wall in next link–
—> Allow my old stinky azz to CHALLENGE anyone reading this to tell us all how installing ANY INSIDE SYSTEM would have stopped, prevented MORE MOLD on the foundation wall and on the back side of the drywall!@!@!@!@!! These interior bubbleheads can try and go ahead and redirect, divert the water all they like but if YOU sobs don’t STOP IT then your never going to stop-prevent mold, not with your E Z Breathe crap or anything else.
Know where the EZ Breathe system could maybe come in handy, be a tad useful?
In Uncle Bubba’s bathroom, got that?
What do you tell those HOMEOWNERS, huh? I see, read what these inside system az ho companies have on their websites, how much they care, how they stop mold etc, bulllshttt, its TOTAL crap man! Many people have FINISHED basements and, lolol, I’ve SEEN with my own 2 frickin eyeballs and POSTED photos (!!!,lol) MANY inside systems were installed, mold, efflorescence on wall BEHIND the dang drywall or paneling, cracks in wall widening but SOME blindly think and recommended its A OK to install inside systems most or all or the time, huh? Well truth is, some need to be sued in order to get the facts, the truth in their heads on this subject
—> I see SOME home inspectors and city inspectors and realtors etc highly recommend certain inside system companies…well Mr and Mrs inspector. how the hlll do YOU peeps think these inside systems stop-prevent mold radon, termites etc…please do tell! LOOK at the photos, explain to my dumb azz how its possible to STOP that MOLD on those walls in photos (or any other like these) by recommending an interior system company to a homeowner who’s going to install the dumb az inside system allowing water to continue to enter and redirect it to a sump pump, go ahead, waiting.
Here, an interior system was previously installed AND the exterior was done by a contractor who backfilled with the same clay INSTEAD of hauling it all away and backfilling w/all gravel, 2 fk ups and how much $$$ ya think was thrown out the window on these 2 gems? C’mon!
http://picasaweb.google.com/101049034584960315932/BasementWaterproofing
Inside and outside pics.
See the inside system junk, see the sump? See the mold, efflorescence etc?
Outside…previous contractor, the dumb azz, backfilled with all the same clay soil which simply pushed against the wall AGAIN and popped open most of the cracks that were already there and caused some others. And the city inspector OKAYED, passed inspection on BOTH!!!
‘Cuckoo’ Time has come today/Chambers Bro’s
Bud Light presents, Real men of Genius… tick tick tick tick
Holy cow, I honestly can say I have never heard anyone carry on like you before John. I’m afraid I just don’t have the time to constantly debate with you for hours every day. I will say this though. What do you think all the houses in my area are backfilled with? The native clay soil is always used. So are all these homes going to collapse at any second? It is not in the local building code that you must only backfill with gravel all the way up. The houses in this area are all backfilled with this native soil. Also, please keep in mind that the only reason, I am on here is because you provoked me, by personally addressing me on your online forum.
If clay was used as back-fill against the basement foundation up around here, the excavator/contractor would not be in business long. :shock: We’ve learned what problems it can cause.
Duhhhhhhhhhh! Carry on eh?
Dude, who posted a ROOKIE video on you-dang-tube and carried on in that video for all to see and to possibly be called out on yer bs/ineptness? You did bubblehead.
It’s your own fault, period! Don’t keep tossing bulshtt my way.
Your are NOT an experienced waterproofing/foundation contractor, by your own admission! You’ve been doing ‘this’ for a year or 2. Hardly what most would call experienced AND the reason YOU do not ‘get’ much of w t f I’m saying.
And you apparently do not want to or can’t read, have posted quite a few other links, facts and photos.
Your the one who rambles on in vid, claiming bs such as, you are the supposed only contractor in your area who offers a long guarantee, that your privy to the best knowledge in industry lololololol etc etc, bunch of bs.
INSTEAD of making some shttball rookie claims, you should have done your homework FIRST. But again, that’s what rookie’s do, got that? #-o
The local building code, lololooooool!!! ](,)](,)](*,)
Here AGAIN (below link, read it ya terd!) is someone in YOUR AREA who KNOWS your local code is bulshtt…
http://www.johnmcewen.ca/waterproof.php
Near bottom, ‘From the INEPT to the out and out scams’
In part says, 'In KINGSTON, no one looks over my shoulder…no one looks over anyone’s shoulder. Any one can do anything they want…
…If your building department abrogates their responsibility…take a look at the Kingston builders assoc letter, in one breath they espouse the code, then they fall back on Kingston’s interpretation of the code–no rules–so their members are allowed to be fraud artists…in my opinion (john) the Kingston Building Department let you down during the construction of your house…
Umm, I’d guess John knows your area, your local codes, the building depts. etc better than you sir.
John was invited to write CMHC waterproofing guide…has 20 yrs experience on-this-subject (versus what do you have Dan, huh?) and was granted expert witness status in Superior court of Ontario ( 6 for 6 in various courts) etc
Did you read any g dang thing, previous links?
‘Each year EXPANSIVE SOILS (duh umm aka CLAY) cause billions in damages to houses, other buildings, roads etc…this is more than twice the damage than floods, hurricanes, tornadoes and earthquakes combined’
Yet YOU and too many builders use it as backfill against foundation walls.
Your local building depts.(and many others).allow builders to backfill with shttball soil, that’s incompetence, negligence. Its NOT what’s best for homeowners basement walls man, got it???
They not only backfill with shtt soil, they pretty often backfill with other crap that should have been hauled away. Bricks, blocks, wood, concrete etc etc…are often backfilled with the shttball clay man.
You post public vid’s and shoot off yer trap, that’s fine BUTT…if make erroneous claims etc in those vid’s then…that’s on you bubblehead, that’s your own fault/inexperience.
Dan’s next job…
Remember, Dan is “privy to all the best knowledge” on this subject…eh :-k
Ok so Big time Dan, quite a few ask me how much I charge for different size jobs so i'll ask you, how much did you charge homeowner for this small job? :-k (Should cost LESS as he uses excavator, LESS labor , less time)
…and duh, LESS gravel backfill and not much if anything to HAUL AWAY, that costs quite a bit)
:40 mark of video, says the water was ONLY coming in at corner.
So really, all that needed to be done was, the–corner, no need to go further down the wall towards the AC…eh. No need to tack on added footage because duhhh, the more footage the more the job costs…
And Dan, so far in your vid’s, don’t see ANYTHING of the inside of basement wall…why not show the inside. Yeah, maybe there is drywall, paneling but then again, maybe not.
:50… 'The fill that we’re dumping in is quick-sandy" :mrgreen:
See all the soil dug out piled right next-to the open trench! ](*,)
Guess Dan doesn’t think/believe that soil can help cause a cave in.
Maybe one day he’ll see, find out.
1:30 says, it won’t take long to backfill…all the HARD part is done. :mrgreen:
Dan, you think it’s HARD work digging trenches with an excavator? 
You know what’s much harder work Dan? :-k
Digging and backfilling by HAND baby!!! #-o#-o#-o
“Hard part”, hard work? My stinky azz, what a bunch O sht.
1:40—1:50 YOU said, homeowner was ONLY getting water in AT CORNER sooooo, why would anyone dig/waterproof more?
It supposedly (you said Dan-O) ONLY leaked at corner…hmmmm.
Gouging? Doing more footage than necessary are we Dan?
Dan!!! How much did you charge homeowner for this??? lol
First of all I never said that I have only 2 years experience. You did! I started my own company in 2006, and before that worked at my father’s construction business since I was the age of 13. I am 43 now, so you can do the math.
In that time we had built approx. 50 houses from start to finish & completed hundreds of renovations. Over the years I have aquired various skills, and knowledge in the field. Including masonry. For decades I have seen foundation after foundation be built by experts in their field.
Now if you come to Kingston and view any of the newest subdivisions, you can easily see that the houses are being backfilled with same native soil that is there. They put the minimum gravel needed which is about 6 inches and then backfill it with the existing soil. I can honestly say that I have never witness a wall collapse or bow in because of it. I can see if the masonry workmanship was poor, that problems could arise.
I created a youtube video to show how I tackle a foundation waterproofing job, the benefits of what I do, and the final results. Which by the way is a dry basement everytime.
Now as I had mentioned before, this is a highly competive business. I have a few competitors in my area here, and yes the one that you are so adamant about, “John McEwen”.
Nothing wrong with his approach either. However, here is where we disagree; just because a foundation waterproofing job is not done- to the gospel according to John; then all of a sudden everyone is quilty of misrepresentation?
Now, I realize that John has his books to sell and all,
I only charge a client for what they need to have done & don’t try and sell them stuff that they don’t need. Like extra trucking costs. I guess somebody has to pay for those trucks to be on the road, right?
.
When a new home is built, how would they be able to backfill all the way with gravel when there is no grade set. How would you hold it up against the foundation?
I have to admit, that due to all this debating, I had contacted a local structural engineer today & asked for his opinion. Here is what he said; "Each type of foundation wall has a maximum height of backfill - too much may cause cracks. “Maximum heights are based on non-compacted backfill. Compaction adds load to the wall. backfilling with native material is ok, as long as it is not solid clay. Code requires backfill to be well draining. the top 3-4 inches may be clay to stop water from running down the fdn wall. Backfill should be sandy. Although your plastic liner (the Platon) may permit clay based backfill as it is draining at the wall. this should be checked”
So there you have it. You were mostly right John.
I adamantly argued my points because I believed that what I was doing was the right thing. I could not just take your word for it, as you are not a structural engineer.
Also, I found your approach to be quite abrasive which made me want to disagree with you even more & more. I have removed my youtube vids.
Anyway, I got it now. Thanks!
Maybe now you can turn your attention to the indoor guys!
Best Regards,
Dan Weaver