Hello fellow members ~ My first time for posting. So bear with me. My 26 year old Bryant A/C condensing unit (model#565AJ0-14) went out this summer. It is covered by home insurance (American Home Shield) and is rated at nearly 1 1/2 ton. It is part of a split system, connected to an Armstrong Air handler in the attic (model #AH24A08A … SN8493D27704) Mfg approx 1993 and rated at 2 tons.
The HVAC Lennox contractor, assigned by American Home Shield, tells me that the A/C condenser and air handler are NOT matched and has recommended that I have him install a Goodman A/C rated for 2 tons. This A/C system is cooling our upper floor (approx 630 square feet). My HVAC contractor also tells me that he can install the new AC in the next week, even though the weather is hovering around freezing at night. But he can not test the entire system until later in the spring and warns me that there might be problems with the air handler.
I really can not afford a new heat pump and feel that I don’t need it for the upper level. Possibly the lower level, yes.
I was told by another HVAC contractor that I may run into problems with the “new” Goodman unit because both it and the air handler will continue to use the outdated coolent. The Lennox HVAC dealer assures me that that he has been stock piling the older type coolant because he has many customers using the older style A/C units (R-22 vs ?).
My questions:
Did I make a good decision to go with a 2 ton replacement A/C unit?
What problems could I have with staying with the older type of coolant system?
If the air handler is found to be defective in the spring, what are my options at that time?
As a final comment, my attic has 4 inches of blown insulation. I plan to remove it (push it aside) and install R-30 rolls (9 1/4 inches thick) and place the blown insulation on top. Will this increased insulation cause any problems with my A/C system? I would think that it should improve it.
1. Did I make a good decision to go with a 2 ton replacement A/C unit?
Your HVAC contractor should determine what size a/c unit is required with his/her heat gain calculations. What ever size is used get a matched system, that way you won’t have any surprises (additional expenses) come spring.
2. What problems could I have with staying with the older type of coolant system?
The older type refrigerant R22 is an ozone depleting substance and will be phased out of production by 2020, meaning you will pay through the nose for any R22 which is available should you need any or you will need to buy another matched system which uses the new refrigerant R410A.
Anyone buying your home will be notified in the home inspection that you have an air conditioner that is using a refrigerant that is no longer available and should reserve some funds for a replacement.
3. If the air handler is found to be defective in the spring, what are my options at that time?
$$$$$
As a final comment, my attic has 4 inches of blown insulation. I plan to remove it (push it aside) and install R-30 rolls (9 1/4 inches thick) and place the blown insulation on top. Will this increased insulation cause any problems with my A/C system? I would think that it should improve it.
Why don’t you just leave the blown where it is and roll over it with the batts?
Stay away from the Goodman brand and other other brands manufactured by Goodman. They are nothing but junk. When I use to own a heating and cooling company, we always stuck clients that have Goodman units to the back of the list. You would fix one thing on the unit and something totally unrelated would break the next week. Then the customer thinks that you did something to his unit. The odds are if you ask the installer if he will be performing all the service calls if the unit ever breaks down, he will say 'No" and for good reason. Sad but true.
I have heard that Goodman units are ok now if installed correctly. This would include ones less than 5 years old. What years were you referring to James?
Thanks everyone for your responses. To help clarify my situation:
Attic space … 630 sq ft. 2 x 10 & 2 x 6 joists on 16in centers contain loose fill white powder insulation with NO VAPOR barrier. Recommended attic insulation is R-49 for my zone 2. Because there is no vapor barrier, I plan to scoop the loose fill and move it to the side. Then inspect and fill any air gaps around electrical lines, etc running down into the walls below. Then add the first rolls of FACED 9in R-30 fiberglass insulation. I will then install 2x4 or 2x6 boards perpendicular to the existing joists and top the voids with the white powder loose insulation. I also plan to place a deck and add electrical lights and outlets so that the air handler can be easily serviced. Also will allow for storage space. Incidentally, moisture is controlled by 25in square wall vents on opposite ends of the attic. One of the vents has a fan controlled by a thermal switch that turns on when the attic temp reaches a given temp (I don’t know the actual setting). There are NO soffit vents and I assume that this is intentional. Should I add soffit vents?
I plan to immediately call the Lennox HVAC and re-think the option of having him replace the “dead” A/C condenser with an appropriately sized Lennox heat pump. I realize from this thread that he will need to remove the Armstrong air handler and replace it. Gordon Kay made an excellent point that if I went with a replacement A/C unit, it would be using the outdated R-22 coolant and I agree that this would detract from the resale of the house if the future buyers knew that the A/C was R-22.
My HVAC guy was probably recommending Goodman because he knew that my home warranty would not pay for a Lennox brand. After all the original unit was 23 years old. So at this point, I am thinking of biting the bullet and upgrading to a heat pump.
All manufacturers’ have experienced their share of problems over the years, I don’t think you can single any one out as junk. Maybe things have changed since the good ol days. The only thing I have seen as junk is directly related to neglect by the owner or poor/lazy maintenance practices by service techs. For the most part the components of heating or cooling equipment are made by totally separate manufacturing corporations like GE, Emerson, Robertshaw, Honeywell, White Rogers, Tecumseh, Copeland, Sporlan, Ram….
The most important part of any cooling or heating equipment is properly sizing the equipment and proper installation, followed by regular maintenance. Most have a 10 year parts warranty nowadays and Goodman just finished giving away a 10 year parts AND labour warranty.
A heat pump, sweeeet. Good choice Bob I am sure you will be pleased. Sounds like quite a project you have going there. I don’t envy you with the insulation relocation task, but at least you are going to do it proper and a service platform with lights for the air handler to boot!!. You da man.
What does your HVAC guy think about Goodman HP? Lennox is good too but may cost a bit more. I believe the warranties are similar.
Let your hvac guy know what you are doing and try to co ordinate the work if possible. By working together your hvac guy will do a superior job for you. Is your duct work properly sealed and insulated and is you filter easily accessible?
Gordon and all ~ Again thanks for the solid support. Yes, I am in close conversation with my HVAC contractor and he has convinced me to stay with the Goodman A/C replacement (SEER rated at 13 vs my 23/yr old Bryant, est SEER of 7.5 or 8). His reasoning:
Don’t spend a lot of money on the up stairs cooling unit.
Live with the fact that many home owners throughout the US will still have R-22 systems in operation for the next 10 years or so.
Obtaining R-22 coolant from him will not be a problem.
He doesn’t recommend a heat pump for the upstairs because we have enough additional heat sources in the winter (e.g. electric base boards and hydronic radiant heating coils in the concrete floor (via an Arco electric boiler). On this last point, I totally agree.
Instead, he is advising me to focus on the eventual replacement of the downstairs air handler and A/C units which are old and the home inspector highly recommended that we budget for a replacement when the system fails. So now I am learning about the advantages of the newer energy efficient heat pumps.
The attic insulation project will get under way soon. Because I plan to service the filter in the attic handler myself … and inspect the condensation pans … I want lights on the subject and a sold deck to walk.
Make sure that the duct work seams and joints in the attic are sealed to prevent pulling in hot attic air into the system and that ductwork is insulated.
Go with a thermostatic expansion valve on the indoor coil.
Look at the option of variable speed motor on the air handler. Depending upon a/c useage may cut electrical bills anywhere from $150 to $300 a year x life useage that will save lots of money in the future. Electric companies rarely cut back on their rates so it will be a good investment.
As stated in another post all major brands have their share of problems. Before selecting any system a homeowner should be able to do their own research on the possible units that they may want. This research must include expected life, common mechanical issues, and cost of use. Depending on how old the system is, some problems should be expected, and they will happen once in a while. More on topic, I would suggest looking at a system that has the energy star symbol because it has a lower cost of use. Also take into consideration the amount of use, and the potency needed for your household. Usually aHVAC service expert should be able to tell you that.
