Can I get confirmation on a couple things?

Context: I did a roof inspection for a client who just had a new roof installed on a house that was built in 2006. The client was skeptical of the contractor’s work, so he wanted a third party inspection done. As i’m on the ladder looking at the eaves, the owner of the roofing company pulls up at the curb and approaches me on the ladder. He goes “uhh hi, can I help you?!”. After explaining that I’m inspecting the installation, he proceeds to tell me how my client has “trust issues” and “wouldn’t let them do their job!”. Super shady from the jump.

As I reviewed my pictures with the builder and the client, the builder was constantly blowing off what i was saying and making it seem like no big deal. Then he walks around the corner and calls his workers on the phone and proceeds to tell them they need to come back and do everything i was just saying. He says “yea, man, you have to do these things on every house!” :rofl:

Would someone mind confirming a couple items?

1. Here is some sidewall flashing at the top of a section of roof with another section of roof overhanging it. I got behind it in the attic and could see light shining through. I pointed this out to the client and builder and the builder said “yea, ok. I don’t think there’s enough room under that overhang to be able to nail it down. we might just put some caulk under there.” He then asked me if I would be “cool with that”, lol. I’m thinking it should be held down with fasteners and not caulking, correct?

2. Drip edge flashing was added to the house for the first time since it was built. This is how they installed it. My understanding is it should be attached to the decking itself and it’s attached to the trim here. The positioning of the existing decking seemed to prohibit that with the drip edge they installed, should they have used a different drip edge with a longer top section to accommodate for the decking? (and I know, the starter strip backing wasn’t removed and the underlayment doesn’t extend enough.)

edit: ive since researched the manufacturers installation recomendations and learned that is not an adhesive strip on the bottle and the cellophane should not be removed. regardless, the dripedge-underlayment-starter strip area seems to be improper

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Drip edge flashing is wrong

I do not have a problem with the apron flashing. Some sealant under the apron flashing should suffice.


I would use fasteners. I see no problem getting fasteners under the overhang. The builder has to put more thought into it, not a problem. It would take 5 minutes to fasten it down.

Yes, improper drip edge


Right, right. I knew that. I guess thinking that the strip on the bottom was adhesive threw me off from what i knew was important. Thank you Brian and Scott.


Wait. was there underlayment?

you can see it in the picture, it comes to the end of the sheathing.behind the drip edge

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pretty shoddy job though.

One area where it’s gapped:

One area where it doesn’t extend under the roll roofing valley:

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of all places, smh

it’s supposed to extend under the entire valley, not just overlapped, correct?

It should cover all of the roof decking.


I was a roofer for 18 years. And you can not nail under the over hang. no room for a hammer, just usually use silicone.
for the drip edge, its not the roofers fault the OSB was installed wrong, and does not come all the way to the fascia board.
then the fascia board is the same width of the drip edge, its impossible to get drip edge onto decking.
Its a framing issue, not a roofing issue.
and for the starter strip, pulling off the identifier strip does nothing, it says on it do not remove.
why remove it, what will removing do?

problem 1 they should have lowered and nailed the underlayment down to the drip edge, not to the OSB .

Problem 2 Wrong type of drip edge used. that stuff is used for flat roofs, not shingle.

Problem 3 the shingle overhang over the drip edge is way to far. use the correct dripedge and no overhang needed.

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So how was the sheathing fastened? Silicone?


It became the roofers problem when the roofer continue with the install.

I bet you would have not even have started that job until 1. The framing issues were resolved. 2. You had the correct drip edge material.


The sheathing was fastened though the top roof, as there would not be soffit, or decking at the time of the install.

I’m just going to put “recommend properly fastening flashing”

I think he was being sarcastic. My understanding is that caulking is technically designed to seal, not fasten.


Exactly. So again, if/when that section of sheathing ‘rots out’, how is it replaced/fastened? According to Handy, the overhang would need to be ripped off and rebuilt after the sheathing was repaired?? I don’t think so!


Since you saw daylight between the roof plane and the flashing, wind driven rain could possibly make its way inside. Apron flashing is not always nailed to the roof surface. Some roofers will say absolutely not to do this. There are varying schools of thought. You will have to make a judgement call and it sounds like you did. No problem with that decision in my opinion.


There are tons of things fastened my some sort of caulking. One of them we use every day. The windshield of our vehicle. It’s only held in place by sealant. They make sealant just for roofing. That will keep out water and also hold up to extreme winds. I’ve always used NOVAFLEX. They make different types for different applications.

As I said, the builder has to put a little more thought into it, it is not a problem fastening down the flashing under the over hang.


Exactly, it was just a lazy builder.