Can this be fixed?

Originally Posted By: rmoore
This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.



As soon as I saw this I knew it was trouble.


![](upload://5cRGAzxOgcGizT6ah25E86CER2n.jpeg)

Don't ya love the wood support! Just couldn't see how an open draft hood that close to a Tee'd furnace flue was going to work. Sure enough, with both units running, my mirror started fogging about 6" away. Naturally deferred to an HVAC techy, but I wondered if anyone thought this could be fixed without moving the water heater (or at least getting a low-boy). Some sort of more directional flue for the furnace? But then how would you attach the water heater? Very low 1918 basement, both units only 4 years old.


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Richard Moore
Rest Assured Inspection Services
Seattle, WA
www.rainspect.com

Originally Posted By: jsavino
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I would have installed an electric w/h. Natural draft and induced draft into one chimney will not work.



John Savino


HomeWorks Inspection Services, LLC


St. James, NY


631.379.4241

Originally Posted By: rmoore
This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.



jsavino wrote:
Natural draft and induced draft into one chimney will not work.


John...not sure where you got that from (or are you talking about this particular case?). The majority of homes here have that arangement into a single flue and it is certainly allowed. Of course the water heater connection is usually Y'ed into the furnace flue much higher (as high as possible). The problem here was that the basement was barely 6' high and the water heater was an unusually tall skinny one.


--
Richard Moore
Rest Assured Inspection Services
Seattle, WA
www.rainspect.com

Originally Posted By: jsavino
This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.



Rich, I’am discussing the picture. I assume, this is all gas equipment.


From what I see, the chimney has been relined. Looks like a 6’’ liner, then a 7" tee, back down to 6" pipe to the furnace and 4" to the w/h. Why increase the “T” to 7" and back down to 6"? I agree that a “Y” should have been installed for better draft, and possibly that could be the answer. The flue pipe from the w/h looks pitched in the wrong direction. A roll of band iron instead of the block of wood to support the flue pipe.


All chimney's will only allow "X" amount of flue gasses to pass. With both units running at the same time and your flame mirror fogged up 6" from the diverter, there's a problem.

What is the capacity of the w/h? Could be 40 or 50 gallon heater. Do you know what equipment was in place before four years ago? Is there any down draft? What is the height of the chimney? What is the height of the floor to chimney base opening, verses the height of the floor to the top of the heater with the smoke elbow installed? The list could go on.
In my opinion the height of the ceiling isn't the problem, it's the wrong equipment.


--
John Savino
HomeWorks Inspection Services, LLC
St. James, NY
631.379.4241

Originally Posted By: Guest
This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.



Richard,


Moving the water heater to a location where you coubtain clearance for a wye or a shorter heater would both suffice. But you knew that.


There's no good way to set up the current configuration, but you knew that.

What was the question?

I'm sure that flue support has been treated w/ fire retardent and poses no risk to health or property.

I'd like to close with "deal killer" why oh why can't you be fair to the house?

Nice crimp in the supply line.