Originally Posted By: rmoore This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Hmmmm…
There's only one line coming from the compressor so it must be pumping air. Pressurizing the tank that way doesnt make any sense to me. Wouldn't it prevent supply? So...the only reason I can think of for pumping air into the cold water supply line would be to clear and "winterize" the supply line back to the well.  Probably way off!!!
-- Richard Moore
Rest Assured Inspection Services
Seattle, WA
www.rainspect.com
Originally Posted By: Guest This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Let’s say the well pump only pumps up to thirty pounds. The people like forceful showers so they figured they’d add another twenty of thirty pounds of pressure. Pressurizing the hot side, in effect, pressurizes the cold side as well. Here’s the problem w/ the scenario: Once the bladder tank is is empty, the shower would go from warm to water heater temp nearly instantly, because the pump couldn’t over come system pressures for cold water supply.
It wouldn’t be used to winterize back to the well…the pump’s foot valve would prevent that, but it may used to blow out to another draincock(s) in the residence.
It’s hokey.
The edit is because I had to make draincock one word to get past the censor. Seeing as how that word is censored precludes my string of petcock jokes.
Originally Posted By: rmagee This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
I see these once in a while. It is a piston driven water pump. It can only be used on shallow wells (normally hand dug). Only one pipe coming out of the well and no foot valve required. These are often set up with no pressure tank and operate simply on demand. You open a tap and the pump comes on and runs until you turn off the tap.
Normally seen in camps and cottages. It looks pretty dry around this one. They often leak around the shaft packings.
I always describe them as obsolete and recommend consulting a plumber.
-- Rick Magee
Building Check Ltd.
Fredericton, N.B. Canada
1-506-454-3332
bcheck@nbnet.nb.ca
"check with a professional"
Originally Posted By: bemelander This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Well this is a summer home in northern Michigan. It is used to winterize the plumbing system. Not sure how well it works but the house was de-winterized just prior to the inspection and on leaks.
Originally Posted By: gbeaumont This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Hi Bill,
that was a good one, I've never seen that set up before dispite inspecting lake cabins in New Hampshire. We normally shut the supply off and hook a compressor to an external hose bib.
Originally Posted By: rmoore This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
John…
If you are talking about the TPR drain line... CPVC is allowed. What isn't allowed of course is the reduction to 1/2" (at least that's what it looks like)...but I'm sure Bill is aware of that (and the exposed wire nuts, etc).
-- Richard Moore
Rest Assured Inspection Services
Seattle, WA
www.rainspect.com
Originally Posted By: rmoore This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Ahhh…you got me there. Haven’t heard that. Around here 99.9% of the connections are flex copper first (our ground shakes occasionally) so I’ve never run accross CPVC risers. Anyone got any input on that?
Originally Posted By: jpeck This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
John,
No requirement for that.
It was recommended (for years) to have the first 18" of the T&P drain line be copper or galvanized, but then tests showed that CPVC would work for that and became approved for that use.
The theory is that when the T&P fails and release water, the incoming cold water reduces the water temperature far enough and fast enough so the CPVC was safe to use.
