Originally Posted By: Matthew Metzger This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Thanks for taking my questions! I am new to the inspeciton industry, I went to ITA, gettting ready to start my business, these are some photos from my practice inspection. Thank you for you help, I have found this site to be a weatlth of knowledge, hardly compares to what I get over at ASHI.
These two photos are of faulty chimney flashing, I would recommend a roofer to complete repairs. My question is, how would this simple fix be executed? Would they reseal it with roofing cement or what? In school I thought that they said caulks and other mastics (sp) were temporary repairs?
Originally Posted By: Brian A. Goodman This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
[quote=“Matthew Metzger”]
My question is, how would this simple fix be executed? Would they reseal it with roofing cement or what? In school I thought that they said caulks and other mastics (sp) were temporary repairs?
They are temporary. The edge of that flashing is supposed to bent in such a way as to hold itself in the groove or cut in the brick. Then you caulk over the cut just for the sake of insurance and common sense, not to be THE seal.
Ideally the flashings are built right in when the brick is laid, but I don't see much of that here. Ideally they would be step flashings too, not one long one running at an angle.
How the fix would be done would depend on how the flashing was done in the first place, who was doing the repair, etc.
Originally Posted By: phinsperger This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Brian A. Goodman wrote:
Ideally the flashings are built right in when the brick is laid, but I don't see much of that here. Ideally they would be step flashings too, not one long one running at an angle.
I suspect that this flashing was added after the fact. As Brian said, Ideally step flashing when the chimney was built. But at least they did take the time to saw cut the flashing in. More than most do  I do see step flashing underneath the one piece counter flashing. As a repair short of rebuilding the chimney, I would accept the counter flashing reinersted into the grove with a high heat epoxy. Ok fire away
Originally Posted By: jonofrey This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Along with insuring the proper flashing overlap, hardened nails can be used with sealant to keep the flashing in place. You can see some nails used (in the picture) but they look rusty. Looks like some additional pieces of coun terflashing might be in order. IMO, any nails used that are exposed on a roof should be sealed over as well. After sealant is used, it should be painted with good quality enamel paint designed for the purpose.
Of Course, our job is to point out the discrepancy and recommend a qualified roofer to determine the best method for repair. That gets the monkey off our back.
Your thinking is correct with recommending a roofer, the roofer should also determine the repair method.
Originally Posted By: jrooff This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Matthew I will repeat what John said. Your thinking is correct with recommending a roofer, the roofer should also determine the repair method.
In my neck of the woods, in order to get the flashing tight to chimney we use tapcon screws ( small concrete screws) and caulk the cut line with a mortar caulk to seal the saw cut and help hold the flashing in.
Originally Posted By: rsmith5 This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
This is a common technique when installing counterflashing on any existing wall or chimney. The preferred method to hold the metal is lead wedges pounded tight then the reglet filled with a good grade sealant. This keeps the metal flat with no holes. When the next roof covering is installed you can bend up for removal and then hard nail or use grip pins to hold in place or cut along the caulk with utility knife, remove, clean and reinstall.