I have been asked to determine the cause of the paint failure on a local visitors center. The siding material is a composite concrete clapboard siding.
the paint is a year old and is peeling off were you notice the water damage and under the flue for the furnace.
I would also like suggestions on a drainage system for the buterfly roof.
Sometimes it’s best to say, “This is beyond what I’m able to provide.” :roll:
I’m familiar with composite siding and I’m familair with cementicious siding, but not composite concrete siding. Is that really what it is?
Obviously moisture caused damage. The area below vent shows trademark moisture “A” shaped damage. Get some infrared thermograms…picture says 1000 words. I am with Kenton, looks like something other than cementicious siding.
it feels and looks like concrete and has a binder of something in it. kida weird the way its flaking apart.
Other than the risk of pointing out the obvious,(water is causing the problem along with poor roof design).
One could easily solve it by extending the valley flashing into a scupper type box with a downspout directly under it.
I’ve never seen concrete flake , It looks more like a masonite product, but then I’ve not lived long enough to have seen everything yet.
I agree that this looks more like a hard board or masonite type of siding. I’ve never seen a cement based product with water damage like that. Hardboard siding is very prone to water damage if not properly sealed.
What is the age of this building?
The butterfly roof design without any means to handle water run off at the valley is just stupid.
Fiber Cement Siding
Concrete Home > Building Systems > Fiber Cement Siding
Fiber-cement siding has the look of wood siding but has a lower cost and lower maintenance. Market share is approaching ten percent, according to manufacturers. Additional benefits include resistance to termites and fire. Fiber-cement siding will not rot, buckle or warp and holds paint for several years longer than conventional wood siding.
Moisture resistance is a concern, but problems can be avoided if the siding is installed correctly and properly treated. Labor is a bit more intensive, and proper precautions should be taken when cutting fiber-cement siding.
Handling
Fiber-cement trim pieces are straighter than wood siding, so less time has to be spent bowing the trim in alignment. Fiber-cement siding is much heavier than wood siding. However, it is flexible, so carrying it on its edge rather than the flat is recommended. Finally, a wavy frame will not be hidden by fiber-cement siding, unlike wood siding. The lumps will show through.
Fastening
Either by hand or by coil nailer, the one thing to avoid when nailing is overdriving the fasteners. While coil nailers are faster, the drivers in the guns can be worn out faster, depending on usage. Setting the nail head below the surface decreases holding power. Also, take notice of the nails you use. Make sure you use corrosion-resistant roundhead nails. Fasteners should be driven into framing members. Most kinds of lap siding are bound at the top and bottom. A note of caution: Blind-nailing is not recommended in high wind areas. If you are going to blind-nail, use large nail heads and place them just above the lap line.
Detailing
Typically, wooden vertical trim pieces were used when using bevel siding. This gave the siding something to run into. But using wood is not practical when you’re using a material that is going to last as long as fiber-cement siding. Fiber cement trim board is available in varying sizes, from 7/16" to 3/4" to 1". Vinyl corner trims are another way to get around using wood.
Manufacturers recommend joining fiber-cement lap siding over a stud. Make sure to leave a 1/8" gap between the siding and the edge of the wood casings and corner boards. (That’s so the wood can move.) There is no need to paint or seal end cuts.
Fiber-cement siding can be installed over foam insulation board, as on an ICF house, but problems can occur during installation. Extreme caution must be taken to ensure proper installation.
Top row, L-R: Shingles, Smooth Beaded, Smooth
Bottom row, L-R: Vertical, Textured Beaded
Painting
Fiber-cement siding holds paint exceptionally well, usually 7-15 years. Some manufacturers make their siding available pre-primed, but still offer raw siding. This allows you to put your own primer and topcoat on. Before painting, make sure you thoroughly wash your siding. Also, allow it adequate time to dry. Dirt and mildew are liable to stick to flat paint. Satin topcoats have a higher chance of looking blotchy than flat ones, so make sure to do a good job on your priming. Oil-based primers are not recommended, but oil-based topcoats are acceptable over latex primers. Prolonged surface exposure to water causes degradation, so it is important to paint your siding within 90 days of installation. Always make sure to follow the manufacturer’s specs.
Given the proper care, fiber-cement siding can give your home the look of wood with the protection, low maintenance and lasting power of cement.
it was built in 1996
Ricky, since it is a visitor’s center then I would expect that either the owner or the original architect would have the construction drawings available. If it were me I would be attempting to locate those drawings, determine what material was called out and then contact the manufacturer or local dealer for that product for assistance. Alternatively, if need be, research your local building permits to determine the original GC and work with them to identify and resolve the issue.
It’s always hard if not impossible to know why something like that happened for sure. But the siding may have been damp or poorly prepped before painting. And if it already had water damage and was painted over the new paint may not of adhered to the siding in some areas. It’s hard to tell from the pictures but it looks like the paint is holding up in some areas and not others. Repair?replace damaged siding and repaint, scupper box and downspout for valley. If it happens again gas and match. 
Also there are some vents on the side of the building above a damaged area, I Would not run whatever they are hooked up to until the paint in that area was dry.</IMG>
Mark I like the Gas & Match Idea LOL that was good. do you have pictures of a scupper box? You wouldn’t think concrete would delaminate like the pictures show its kinda strange. I guess its like a rock in the creek.
I just did a search on Scupper boxes, so thats what those things are called. Thanks for the water issue fix. I think they will work fine.
