I am trying to remember if the drip edge should be behind the gutter or not? This one was not.
I have a “brain fart” once in awhile too…
Drip edge would have been put on at time of roof installation, gutter after. Was trying to see if that was starter course on shingles or not… just curious… we all have diff ways we do things, I will try to pull up the shingles a bit when I ladder up to the roof and look for layers, felt and metal config.
Take care.
Tim
Preferably behind, not always possible. My installer cut slots in my drip edge to get it high enough in the middle to drain to the sides.
With the gutter butting up tight against the underside of those shingles, I wouldn’t call out a missing drip edge. That installation is fine.
Then again, the drip edge flashing wouldn’t even be that hard to install with the gutter in place.
Now if the gutter was installed a tad lower on the fascia board (leaving a fascia gap) then a drip edge would be considered missing.
All the roofing associations highly recommend the use of drip edge. You can find that info in the installation directions. I always make note of this in new builds. If we just make buyers aware then maybe one day the builders will start having better practice.
Just had my roof replaced, by a company where I know the owners.
I had to re-write the proposal specs:
Ice & Water Shield (I&WS) on both the eaves and rakes.
Drip edges on both.
I&WS over the drip edge on the eaves and under it at the rakes.
6’ of I&WS at the eaves, instead of the usual 3’ (Chicago, home of the ice dam :mrgreen:)
Chimney counter flashing cut into the mortar joints, rather than just caulked.
he thought I was crazy, but added $350 to the quote. I told him that these were the current “best practices”. He told me that he didn’t know that (even though he is a member of the CHicago Roofing Council).
Also, he is a good guy. He never uses nail guns to shingle a roof, only hand nailed.
But, he told me that it was getting very difficult to get work, doing a “best practices” job when there are so many other “shingle nailers” (NOT state licensed roofers, which is required in Illinois) underbidding him.
So, it’s not just HIs that are getting low balled by non-professional competitors.
Hope this helps;
Why I & WS all the way up the rake edge?
And why the problem with a nail gun?
Ditto
I think you mean drip edge where bolded and underlined, no?..otherwise I don’t get it.
Over the drip edge. Sorry. I will correct.
- to guard against water intrusion at the rake. Very common with our high winds and ice.
- Nail guns are, rarely, properly adjusted and can dimple the chingle too much, or eve tear it. There should always me a little play under the nail head.
BTW: Good thing my daughers are fluent in Spanish. The actual installers didn’t read the specs. I could have let them go on, and then called my fiend out to redo the work (as not complient with the contract, but we (my daughers and I) took it as a “teaching moment”.
I found one roof 3/12 pitch, 3 tab shingles, 10 years old, where the air pressure/nail gun was not adjusted properly, and the nails were held up, and allot were not sealed at all. You can get into trouble faster with one, however if you know what you are doing, you can haul butt, and still do it right. There is allot in the right gun, but way more adjustment in the user.
I have also heard from roofers that they are starting tear off whole sheets of sheeting, rather than attempt to tear off Ice/water shield. Plan on it when that time comes around again.
I do know contractors that will Ice/water shield the WHOLE roof, and wait to shingle it till they feel like it, (up to 3 months) wonder how much sheeting they will be tearing up in 20 years?
Here’s what you can get with a maladjusted air gun. This was a brand new roof. All the nails driven completely through the shingles. The shingles were just being held by gravity and were sloughing off in some places. I’m sure that if the sellers didn’t get the roof redone, IKE must have stripped it bare.
You can also find guys (hand nailing) swinging a hammer for the first time or skipping nails, or…
Well, you get the picture
And that is exactly my point. It matters not what tool is being used (hand or nail gun), it matters who’s using the tool. :mrgreen:
Not the guns fault. :mrgreen:
Guns don’t kill roofs, people kill roofs. 
Will, if your roofer is having trouble competing maybe he should use a nail gun and make the job go faster, this way he can bid less for the same work, or bid the same and make more money.
I can’t imaging doing a roof without a nail gun.
Ditto. I used (used…no more thanks) a coil nailer and would find a sweet spot between pressure and adjustment…
Sometimes the guns can be a “nail starter” but finishing off fasteners takes a lot less time than does over driving the fasteners. One’s laborer is usually good at cutting and loading out shingles, and recognizing under/over driven fasteners.
I, as well, couldn’t imagine framing, carpentry and a host of other tasks including shingling (comp. esplly) w/out a nail gun.
You’d have to be a pretty good shot for concrete tile
Although, I’ve got an attachment for shooting fasteners through straps and hardware…never tried concrete tile with it. Probably won’t.
After reading these replies I just wanted to make sure I’ve got it straight,the drip edge sould go over the gutter to keep miosture from getting behind ther gutter onto the facia board. Correct??
Actually, the gutter should be installed up to or just under the drip edge for the reasons you mentioned.