I just watched the video at the end of the “Advanced Roof Inspection Course”. In the video, the presenter said that the drip edge was not installed because the gutter was serving as the drip flashing. Is this correct? This is the first mention I have seen that the gutters could serve as the drip edge.
Some gutters do have an upper projection or lip at the back of the gutter intended to serve as a drip edge. I have found that they are problematic in that they almost never are installed in good contact with the bottom of the shingles. This can allow water to travel by capillary action back to the underlying wood sheathing. In my opinion, they do not meet the drip edge requirement specified by many shingle manufacturers and the building code.
Thanks Russel. So, as a general rule, do you cite it as a defect when there is no drip edge above the gutter? Most pre-formed drip edge I have seen is intended for a gable wall eve, and is not formed to go up the rake.
I have noticed numerous instances where an extended edge beyond the bottom shingle is needed to keep water from going back (capillary action). Water shows up between the trim coil fascia wrap and the fascia board, and then drips off the lip at the vinyl soffit. I have used a strip of trim coil to extend the edge with about 3" under the starter shingle or felt paper, and about 2-3" extended into the gutter. Seems to work good.
If the back edge of the gutter is not in good contact with the shingles (which is almost always the case) I write it up as needing a traditional drip edge. Trim coil can be used to field fabricate an effective drip edge but at the eaves the drip edge must always go under the underlayment. At the rakes it goes on top of the underlayment.
The picture on the left may be what they are talking about in the course and I am with Russell regarding the capillary action being problematic with these designs (I would report what I see and explain the possible problems with that design of no drip edge. And let the client decide what they want to do.):
Excellent! Thanks for your response.
Let me say this, Licensed Professional Gutter Installation and Repairs Contractors are not Licensed Roofing Inspection and Repair Contractors. …About That. … Gutters.
Refer to the proper licensed contractor.
## Replacing Gutters & Downpipes
Here are just a few types of gutter profiles.
That explains it perfectly. I was not aware of the variety of gutter profiles available. Thank you.
If the gutter has a drip edge built in, how do you achieve the required 1/4"/Ft slope in the gutter needed for good drainage?
Their coil stock bender technician is very talented person?
I utilize a digital level but you can also use a torpedo level.
Multiply the number of feet by 1/16 inch to determine the total slope the gutter requires.
Also, use your eye. Scan the length of the gutters at the bottom while standing on a ladder. From the road or yard. Establish an artificial horizontal horizon on the veneer. Look for sags and dips.
Robert Young - Wrong.
Slope does not depend on the length of the gutters. Slope is constant.
I think you meant to say you multiply the number of feet times the slope to get the total drop needed.
At least, I hope that’s what you meant.
Your digital level will not figure this out for you. You need a basic understanding of measurements to use your tools properly.
Anyway, my statement was about achieving proper slope when drip edge is built into the gutter. If your gutter has a built in drip edge, you will not be able to adjust the slope because it will simply follow the roof edge.
“to determine the total slope the gutter requires.”
If you say so.
Gutters don’t have drip edge. At the top of the gutter pan that is exposed to the fascia, there is a hem. That hem tappers towards the fascia. It is incorporated into the back of the gutter pan to divert water into the pan.
Drip edge flashing. 1: Directs roof water into the gutter. 2: Prevents capillary action. 3: Covers/protects the fascia board.
Are we surprised?
It took him an hour to Google/copy/paste all that stuff incorrectly. … .
As Bert previously noted there is no way the type of gutter at left could drain properly.
Never suggested it did.
“Multiply the number of feet by 1/16 inch to determine the total slope the gutter requires.” Use a tape measure and digital level to determine slope.
I do this several times a year for clients that retained my services for various reasons.
Too much slope is usually very unsightly. It also reduces the holding capacity of the gutter.
No need to slope gutters for proper discharge, just wait for the house to settle, or use your level as a hammer for a bit when framing, both will give you the desired effect.
You just quoted yourself, chucklehead. Don’t attribute that nonsense to me.