Originally Posted By: roconnor This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
4" to 6" above the floor is a good guide. I always check the opperation of these, as well as the required auto-reverse to handle the possibility of there being an obstructions on the floor.
– Robert O’Connor, PE
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I am absolutely amazed sometimes by how much thought goes into doing things wrong
Originally Posted By: lkage This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
roconnor wrote:
I always check the opperation of these, as well as the required auto-reverse to handle the possibility of there being an obstructions on the floor.
I agree. Really need to check these.
I find, probably, 70% that don't work as intended. I think the laborers that install them have never read the adjustment instructions. 
-- "I have never met a man so ignorant that I couldn't learn something from him."
Galileo Galilei
Originally Posted By: dedwards This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Larry,
Agree. From my own garage door opener, it seems to take no time at all to get out of adjustment and I also find from talking to some homeowners it can become too sensitive from using it and when the weather changes from warm to cold it causes it to reverse too easily and it becomes a nuisannce so they adjust it way out to where it takes a lot to reverse. I carry a short piece of 2 X 4 in the truck to test it and usually make a joke about the “high tech” garage door tester I carry. I also carry the manufacturers’ procedures for general testing that states using a two by four is one of the methods.
Originally Posted By: roconnor This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
dedwards wrote:
I carry a short piece of 2 X 4 in the truck to test it and usually make a joke about the "high tech" garage door tester I carry.
Thats what I use also ... add it to the flashlight and screwdriver in the tool bag ...  
BTW ... here is a link to a door manufacturer's association site that talks about safety features of garage doors and using the 2x4 to check the autoreverse and other things ... CLICK HERE
-- Robert O'Connor, PE
Eagle Engineering ?
Eagle Eye Inspections ?
NACHI Education Committee
I am absolutely amazed sometimes by how much thought goes into doing things wrong
Originally Posted By: pdacey This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
jpope wrote:
I've changed over to the "grab the handle" method. Less likely to cause damage 
Ditto... and if it's an aluminum door and does not have a stiffener across the top I don't even do the "grab the handle routine". I had one buckle on me a while back. Those aluminum doors are pretty weak when there is any stress put on them.
Originally Posted By: roconnor This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
) per the link I gave above. If you are concerned about damage to the door even with the 2x4 lengthwise, just check the force setting of the auto reverse using the grab method … although some doors have the correct auto-reverse feature, but are just set wrong.
I also happen to think that the DASMA "Safety Guidelines" sheet ...CLICK HERE as well as the CPSC guidelines ... CLICK HERE ... are good document to print out, along with the "Maintence Guideline" linked above, and put in reports for those that include sections in the report on general maintance and safety tips for clients (I do it as a separate section and the end of a report or separate handout) ... 
But getting back to the original guestion, DASMA also has the same 6" max height rule as CPSC for the electric eye ... CLICK HERE ... See Items #6 & #7
-- Robert O'Connor, PE
Eagle Engineering ?
Eagle Eye Inspections ?
NACHI Education Committee
I am absolutely amazed sometimes by how much thought goes into doing things wrong
Originally Posted By: Monte Lunde This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
That picture looks like a wood till up door. I don’t believe that all the responses above will work for that type of door because that type swings out and in to close not following a track straight down like rollup or panel door. The sensor should still be set at 6", leave the 2X4 at home to check a till up door, just hold your arms out.
Originally Posted By: roconnor This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
No matter what type of auto garage door, there is no work around for compliance with federal regulations (references compliments of Erby) … and an HI really needs to check these critical safety provisions.
If the overhead doors are older than 1993, it's probably time to consider replacement of the opener anyway ... especially considering the serious safety risks and hazards/deaths associated with substandard older overhead garage doors.
After all, a home inspection has a lot to do with the safety of the home for your clients, regardless of legal requirements.
Just my opinion and 2-nickels ... 
-- Robert O'Connor, PE
Eagle Engineering ?
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I am absolutely amazed sometimes by how much thought goes into doing things wrong
Originally Posted By: sspradling This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Monte,
nope, its an insulated metal, sectioned door. The installation of the door, springs, balance, rollers and track were fine. The doggone opener is what I zeroed in on.
Originally Posted By: roconnor This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
sspradling wrote:
... its an insulated metal, sectioned door. The installation of the door, springs, balance, rollers and track were fine. The doggone opener is what I zeroed in on.
Time for the opener to be replaced?
-- Robert O'Connor, PE
Eagle Engineering ?
Eagle Eye Inspections ?
NACHI Education Committee
I am absolutely amazed sometimes by how much thought goes into doing things wrong
Originally Posted By: jkormos This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
I use my arms to test resistance, that seems to be a good gage and a good visual for those watching or going back to demonstrate for the client that an adjustment is needed.