Originally Posted By: srowe This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Quote:
Metal parts of listed equipment incorporating an approved double insulation and providing a means for grounding internal nonaccessible, non-current carrying metal parts shall not be bonded.
Originally Posted By: jpope This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
There are newer systems that don’t require external bonding of their bodies. The casings and cabinets are vinyl/plastic.
The portion of Joe's reference is of little consequence to the HI as these are typically internal configurations of the manufactured system (pump, heater, or other equipment) that aren't usually visible.
From the HI's perspective, if there is a bonding lug, it requires bonding.
-- Jeff Pope
JPI Home Inspection Service
"At JPI, we'll help you look better"
(661) 212-0738
Originally Posted By: srowe This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Quote:
From the HI's perspective, if there is a bonding lug, it requires bonding.
Both the pump and heater housing had bonding lugs and the pump even had a sticker stating BONDING.
The owner had the original contractor make repairs of items I called out and I guess this was a "HOT" topic between the owner and buyers. Contractor is stating that it was not required when house was built.
Either way, the bonding lugs were present and I suggested bonding. If the sellers (or contractor) want to get a letter from an electrician stating otherwise then more power to them.
JOE T.
What I would LIKE to know is HOW LONG has the NEC reference been applicable/ how far back 680.26 (B)(4) goes?
Originally Posted By: mlong This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
srowe wrote:
Both the pump and heater housing had bonding lugs and the pump even had a sticker stating BONDING.
The owner had the original contractor make repairs of items I called out and I guess this was a "HOT" topic between the owner and buyers. Contractor is stating that it was not required when house was built.
Either way, the bonding lugs were present and I suggested bonding. If the sellers (or contractor) want to get a letter from an electrician stating otherwise then more power to them.
I think you made the right call. I don't know for sure when these regs were put in place, but I started building swimming pools in '83, and I know they were in place then, and I'm fairly certain they were in place for several years prior to that. Of course, different locales adhere to codes differently. Regardless of whether or not it was required at the time the house was built, it certainly is a safety issue, and should be noted as such. Somewhat like kitchen and bath GFCI outlets. In Maryland, where I built, the electrical inspectors were kind of nuts about the bonding around pools. I know of more than one builder (myself included  ) that had to jackhammer out a concrete deck, because the concrete had been poured before the bonding on the reinforcement steel was inspected. After you do that once, it kind of sticks in your head, and you don't make that mistake again. Basically, though, any metal that is in anyway connected to the pool; reinforcement steel, handrails, iron fences, niches for underwater lights, etc., has to be bonded together.
Originally Posted By: Greg Fretwell This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Some inspectors may have another opinion but I would not accept the screen cage as the bonding path between pool steel and the pump. They would be making up a #8 solid copper jumper between the pool steel pigtail and the pump.
You also can’t use one of those drill screws the screen guys like to make the screen cage bond. It has to be a “through bolt” on the lug.
If you do have a structural post, typically a 4x4 1/8" thick square tube, you could drill and tap a hole but the regular screen cage material is not thick enough to hold tapped threads.
There is also a problem with stainlerss bolts tapped into aluminum if you are near the ocean. Salt will cause that joint to form a non-conductive white oxide, eventually just rotting out the threads and hole. That is why we really want it through bolted with a nut on the back.
In my own pool I brought out radials from the pool steel in 6 locations and picked up all 4 corners of my cage along with half way down the long walls. I figure that will also give me some lightning protection by forming a faraday cage around the pool.