Exhaust hood over gas stove

Is there a requirment for gas cook tops to have a exhaust hood over them per the IRC?

Thanks for any help.

No, but range manufacturers generally recommend them. I always point it out if its absent.

Thanks for the info.

Correct
If there is a exhaust vent anywhere in the kitchen wall or ceiling it helps but I always tell my clients to use a hood ,
so there is not grease coating the kitchen walls in a few years.
Not everything needs a code.

Even a charcoal filter is better than nothing , and can be bought for under 15 buckeroos.

Use nothing, the small amount of charcoal in these filters will be useless after 10-14 days of use or less and then you have to throw out another $15. Vent the range hood to the outdoors!!!

The charcoal filters are only for odor.

The expanded wire mesh is the grease trap and can be cleaned in the dishwasher.

Sorry guys

Brian you need to quit all that commercial cooking your doing.
6 years as Head Installer at Sears Stores ,I know it is dependant on amount and type of cooking but avg would be 3 times a year.

Get the kind with the little blue dot.In Chicago we have Restaurants we sometimes enjoy ,so stop deep frying everything darnit.

Mike those window screens that come with the units do not do much.

Always recommend it be vented out if possible .

as with all things there are two sides to think about…it is nice to have a hood exhaust outside if it is close and easy access , but there are an amazing number of fires from greasy duct work burning in the attic after the homeowner or fire department put the fire out on the stove top…personally if i can’t get direct access out i prefer a recirc unit…jmo…jim

In most cases it is easy to go straight out through the wall ,or into the soffit.

Robert:

I worked in IAQ, IAQ research, airtight housing, environmental illness, “sick building syndrome”, sold high efficiency filter systems (with pounds of carbon installed) and HRV’s from 1981-1992… way before it became a popularly known phrase… still do a bit of consulting as part of the inspection business. I don’t know how much true backgound scientific training that Sears would give you on the actual physics/chemistry of air filtration. Somewhere in my self-training about 1990 (the year I was hired to set up and manage an IAQ/TAB subsidiary for an engineering firm), I read about the 10-14 day life of of the very small amount (approx 1 ounce or less) of charcoal in range filters. I just checked a few of my personal books from that era but can’t find the reference I was looking for.

Sears would not want the public to know that they should buy a new carbon filter at least once a month or more fequently…people would just not do it…so tell them 2-3 times a year is what’s recommended and at least get some sales!!

Here’s a bit of web info from various sources:

The first is from Canada’s federal housing agency Canada Mortgage and Housing Corporation, a leader in publications/research in clean/healthy housing environments:

https://www03.cmhc_schl.gc.ca/b2c/b2c/mimes/pdf/62015.pdf

[FONT=Trajan-Regular][size=5]A GUIDE TO MECHANICAL EQUIPMENT
FOR HEALTHY INDOOR ENVIRONMENTS

[/size][/FONT]
Non-ducted kitchen range hoods are not an
acceptable substitute for a kitchen exhaust. These
units recirculate kitchen air through a charcoal
filter, but do not exhaust odours, pollutants and
hazardous gases. The charcoal filters become
loaded with odours very quickly.

MIsc.:

These filters ‘‘adsorb’’ odors by trapping odor molecules in their very rough surfaces. Carbon filters are better at removing some odors than others. They do not destroy the odors. They are very efficient odor removers until saturation is reached. Then, these filters release odors back into the air. Carbon filters are the standard for odor removal at present. They do not remove particles, mold spores, bacteria, or viruses from the air.

From http://www.naturalsolutions1.com/whatcarb.htm :
Before we explain Activated Carbon to you we first want you to understand how Carbon works with odors, gases and vapors. Many sellers of air cleaners with carbon in them simply DO NOT know how Carbon works and INCORRECTLY explain it. Once you understand HOW carbon works you will understand why MORE carbon is better and WHY those thin carbon pads on many cheap air cleaning units are useless.

http://www.air_purifier_home.com/aboutCarbon/

Interesdting that your built up resume is so darn impressive:),that you must be in the wrong field.I am equaly impressed that you are fully aware of how SEARS as a company thinks about sales.

Should I bow now or later.

Listen up as my experiance is years of installing and replacing, so please tell me how grease cloggs the system according to what is being cooked and how often.

Love when genuisus of the pencil try and shove down our throats in the real world.

Perpetual motion looks good on paper too. http://www.lhup.edu/~dsimanek/museum/psych.htm

Did you really read any of the supplied information? So all the others are also wrong, including our national housing agency, which has no horse in this race, only a mandate to help Canadians in their housing options/choices??

*:roll::roll::roll::roll:

“Thinking you’re God’s gift to the world is nice for you. It’s a little harder for everyone else around you*.”

Michael:

I thought you liked to deal in facts and correct/better information. Oh right…the brotherhood…at all costs, support it in the face of good information!!!

Recirq hoods are fine, some people do not like to pay dearly for conditioned air and then suck it all out of the house.

You want to suck all the air out of your house? Turn your clothes dryer on

Another major reason to install a hood is to protect the cabinets above in the event of a fire flare-up. Easier to quickly extinguish if those pesky melamine cabinets arent burning like tinder…:wink:

The Hood is more fire proof than the cabinets are above them. In this instance there is a code (although we dont quote code) so I wont look it up. There should be something there so the gease doesn’t accumulate on a combustable material and cause a house fire. The ventalation Issue as we all know venting outside is better if its there although the Hood is the most important part not the ventalation.
In open areas of pannisulas and Islands The grease will accumulate on the walls and ceiling which isn’t a good Idea I don’t think there is a code for this installation.
My 2 cents as a X Kitchen designer.

These folks should consider a microwave or heat pump clothes dryer then!!

http://www.nyletherm.com/Heat_Pump_Clothes_Dryer_WPaper.pdf

True

Homes are meant to circulate some air.

Sealing off a house would lead to all sorts of problems.

Only if someone didn’t know the other parts of the equation like healthy house operating habits, ventilation, lower VOC materials, better and efficient building techniques, etc. See the following in which the American Lung Association is telling folks to build an airtight home to ensure a healthy indoor environment. An oxymoron…no! Who would know more about healthy homes than a group of people with breathing problems?

http://www.healthhouse.org/consumer/buildfaq.cfm#faq2