Felxible vent pipe on water heater

Originally Posted By: syared
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Is this install correct? I didn’t think so, the pipe can get dented or crushed fairly easily. I thought the water heater was an amateur install, no extension on the T&P valve, the quick connect water supply pipes and the humidifier wasn’t reconnected. The flue pipe is taped on at each end, no screws were used either. So what do you think?



Steve Yared


The Home Examiner, LLC


(616) 776-7725


http://www.TheHomeExaminer.com

Originally Posted By: syared
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I bet a picture would help.


[ Image: http://www.nachi.org/bbsystem/usrimages/v/vent4.jpg ]


--
Steve Yared
The Home Examiner, LLC
(616) 776-7725

http://www.TheHomeExaminer.com

Originally Posted By: jpope
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There is a flexible vent that is allowed for this application. It’s hard to tell if that is the correct one or not. In any event, the 90 degree bend will make for difficult venting.



Jeff Pope


JPI Home Inspection Service


“At JPI, we’ll help you look better”


(661) 212-0738

Originally Posted By: ckratzer
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In addition to no extension on the TPR.Those galvanized nipples for water inlet and outlet are wrong The installer should have used brass or some type of di-electric fitting.


Copper/brass connected to galvanized will get in a little fight with each other, corrode, and eventually leak no mater how much tef-tape or pipe dope one uses.


Cheremie


Originally Posted By: John Clayton
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I would venture to guess those galvanized nipples are Dielectric fittings because of the groove I can see around their midsection which is typical for that type of nipple. I’m not to sure on the vent pipe though. It looks like standard aluminum dryer vent pipe, most of the standard flexible appliance vent pipe I’ve seen come with a short section (2") of rigid pipe on the end that attaches to the appliance and another rigid section on the opposite end with the proper Type B locking connection to adapt directly into Type B venting and they should not be cut, just expanded to the proper length.


It doesn’t appear to have the 1/4" per foot fall either.


Originally Posted By: ckratzer
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Yep you could be right. I saw those “lines” as scuffs from a pipe wrench.


Hard to tell from a photo.


Cheremie


Originally Posted By: jquinn
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the vent pipe looks like it may be a piece of flexible flue liner. As for the damage…did you see any baseball bats nearby? icon_lol.gif icon_lol.gif


James Quinn RHI


Originally Posted By: jrupert
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If that is a flex liner by code it needs to stop at the wall. The lateral connection needs to be single or double wall vent pipe. This will depend on the type of chimney (masonry, exposed or interior chimney, is this the only appliance that vents to that location etc. )


Originally Posted By: scieslewicz
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Steve,


It sure does look like an amateur installation. John is right; the flexible aluminum duct may be ok from the draft hood but must be solid pipe through the walls/chase. Also, tape is not proper for attachment. There should be screws at the unions. Since you have several problems with it, I'd want a licensed plumbing contractor to correct all the problems. The kink in the flex is not allowing the duct to do it's job and the pitch of it appears to be too horizontal.

Sue Cieslewicz


Originally Posted By: syared
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Thanks all, I called out for a plumber to examine and recommend repairs.



Steve Yared


The Home Examiner, LLC


(616) 776-7725


http://www.TheHomeExaminer.com

Originally Posted By: five.five
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was there a shut-off valve on the cold water inlet ?


Couldn’t tell from the photo.


Originally Posted By: jpope
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five.five wrote:
was there a shut-off valve on the cold water inlet ?
Couldn't tell from the photo.


Usually above the flex.


--
Jeff Pope
JPI Home Inspection Service
"At JPI, we'll help you look better"
(661) 212-0738

Originally Posted By: syared
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Yes, there was a shut-off on the rigid copper above the flex.



Steve Yared


The Home Examiner, LLC


(616) 776-7725


http://www.TheHomeExaminer.com