Floating flashing or sinking roof

This flashing has about a 3/4" gap between it and the shingles. The disclosure indicates the roof is 17 years old. House is about 1834 with log roofing spaced about 4’ apart.

There were no indications inside the house of walls moving or ceilings sagging or in the attic of the rafters spreading.




Isn’t the flashing supposed to be under the shingles? Just a shoddy job as far as I can tell.

I would guess there is real step flashing underneath an attempted cover up.

Non professional and substandard to say the least.

So it’s just an umbrella! :smiley:


How many layers of what did they tear off when the new roof was installed?

That would explain the gap. They just did not beat the crap out of it to get it to lay down.

It would be shoddy job if it was simply a one piece flashing and then it should go under the shingles!!!

A good chimney flashing job would have two parts/pieces:

  1. The stepped base flashing under the shingles and turned up at the chimney 5-8" high
  2. The counter flashing installed in the mortar joints and turned down to cover the base flashing vertical extension

I don’t really see much wrong with that flashing IF it has the base flashing installed. Like Carl said…“they didn’t beat it down!”

I wish i had a better photo, but the underside of the flashing edges matches the missing granules of shingles.

I am a little concerned the roof has moved some in the last 17 years.

Shoddy…could you see light around the chimney from the attic?

A better method:


Most likely had a wooden shake roof on before, that is why the flashing is higher.

Around here they often just wrap new material around the original step flashing.

Either that or it is so coated with asphalt , you cant see the sheet metal.

Just looking at the second picture for the first time, I am wondering what those 4x4 pieces are ,above the gutter line, on the roof surface?

A good diagram with the step/base flashing and cap/conterflashing (local term here)…but does the AHJ allow combustibles like “ice and water” barrier to be installed directly on the chimney?? Usually framing/sheathing members require 1/2-2" clearance.

In Chicago it goes up 3 feet,I think
I am next door in Harwood Heights where code is 6 feet.

Scott, if you say these shingles were originally in contact with the flashing, then movement is the only feasible explanation. 3/4 of an inch would be hard to see in the attic without a laser beam or string line. Log rafters may have been replaced with the last roof, in which case simple shrinkage could cause a drop in the roofline. Poor notching, gaps at the ridge, rot from leaky flashing?. You have probably called for further evaluation, which is about all you can do in a normal home inspection anyway.

John Kogel

Are you asking about the Eave flashing?

This helps drop the snow off before the uninsulated attic melts the snow on the roof to make ice dams. It works sometimes.

Hi John,

The roof is all log and hand hewn beams with mortise and tenon joints pegged togather. There was one beam about 14’ away that had a check possibly even a split all the way down the middle of the 8" beam. I think this one was too far away to affect the area in question, but I do think the roof has dropped in the last 17 years.

Brian, I think the flashing was a pretty good job, they reflashed when they rebuilt the chimney and daylight was not visible from the attic space (seen that plenty of times).

Anyway, I did call for further evaluation, I just wasn’t comfortable with it.

Thanks to all for your input.