Originally Posted By: jtedesco This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
The 3 hole typical pocket tester that is used to check receptacles, seems to do that job well, but the one that uses the same tester to test the operation of the GFCI function on a GFCI receptacle, seems to be unreliable according to a few Home Inspectors, and they wanted to know if that was typical around the country.
I never did own one of those types of testers, and I always thought that the buttons, both red and black, or some other mix of colors, was designed for that purpose.
PS: That's one of the reasons why receptacles installed as required in locations on elevator car tops and in a pit, etc., are only permitted to be of the receptacle type.
That would not make it necessary for the mechanic to leave the work site to reset a CB which could lead to a possible accident in a public place like a mall where maintenance was taking place.
Originally Posted By: Ryan Jackson This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
I have heard from some very knowledged people that the typical GFCI tester is not reccommended by GFCI manufacturers as a testing means for their devices.
Originally Posted By: roconnor This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
… Was the receptacle within like 15’ of the panel? Receptacles very close to a panel will give you an incorrect “False Ground” reading on the SureTest.
The tester is checking for a minimum amount of resistance between G-N, which you will not get with short runs for receptacles very close to the panel ... even though everything may be wired correctly. The tester instructions should mention that. I would remove a faceplate cover to look (leaving the receptacle intact) if I suspect anything.
Joe & Ryan ... Not only is pushing the test button on a GFCI receptacle the preferred method of testing that type of outlet, but using the button on a plug-in tester could create a hazardous situation ... CLICK HERE
-- Robert O'Connor, PE
Eagle Engineering ?
Eagle Eye Inspections ?
NACHI Education Committee
I am absolutely amazed sometimes by how much thought goes into doing things wrong
Originally Posted By: Guest This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Robert,
Quote:
"The tester is checking for a max 1.0 ohm resistance between G-N, which will be exceeded for receptacles very close to the panel even though everything may be wired correctly. The tester instructions should mention that. I would remove a faceplate cover to look (leaving the receptacle intact) if I suspect anything."
I may be wrong, but I think the tester is looking for at least a 1 ohm difference between the neutral and ground. Otherwise, a neutral wired to the ground terminal at the receptacle would test OK because there would be less than an ohm of resistance between the two.
Originally Posted By: roconnor This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Chad … I quoted the wrong limit (the 1.0 ohm maximum applies to “bad grounds”).
The SureTest looks for a nominal amount of minimum resistance to ensure there is at least like 15' of wire. That is why receptacles close to a panel will sometimes show up as a "false ground".
-- Robert O'Connor, PE
Eagle Engineering ?
Eagle Eye Inspections ?
NACHI Education Committee
I am absolutely amazed sometimes by how much thought goes into doing things wrong
Originally Posted By: ecrofutt This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Robert,
I read your references:
"Not only is pushing the test button on a GFCI receptacle the preferred method of testing that type of outlet, but using the button on a plug-in tester could create a hazardous situation ... CLICK HERE"
I don't get the hazardous situation you refer to. Please elucidate.
Originally Posted By: roconnor This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Hey Erby ? The plug-in GFCI receptacle testers work by making a hard connection between the hot and ground, which energizes the ground. Although unlikely, if there is a problem with a GFCI receptacle and a wiring problem (bad connections, high resistance ground, open ground) activating the GFCI tester could fry wiring or energize the ground or other metal things without tripping a breaker.
Considering that pushing the built-in test button on a GFCI receptacle is a better way to check things out anyway, I think it?s better safe than sorry ? 
Just my 2-nickles
-- Robert O'Connor, PE
Eagle Engineering ?
Eagle Eye Inspections ?
NACHI Education Committee
I am absolutely amazed sometimes by how much thought goes into doing things wrong
Originally Posted By: kmcmahon This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
roconnor wrote:
Mike ... Was the receptacle within like 15' of the panel? Receptacles very close to a panel will give you an incorrect "False Ground" reading on the SureTest.
The tester is checking for a minimum amount of resistance between G-N, which you will not get with short runs for receptacles very close to the panel ... even though everything may be wired correctly. The tester instructions should mention that. I would remove a faceplate cover to look (leaving the receptacle intact) if I suspect anything.
That is a very good piece of information to know. I just did an inspection Friday that showed "false ground" on the suretest meter and the GFCI receptacle was 1' below the panel.
The rest of the gfci's in the home had no ground, so when I got this reading I didn't question it.
Originally Posted By: roconnor This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Mike … seems like ya might have a true bootleg ground at that outlet … that will not be picked up even by some of the better GFCI testers like the GB SureWire. But the SureTest Circuit Analyzer usually will pick that up.
Did ya have older wiring without a bond/ground wire (red mind flag) or pull the cover to check out of curiosity?
-- Robert O'Connor, PE
Eagle Engineering ?
Eagle Eye Inspections ?
NACHI Education Committee
I am absolutely amazed sometimes by how much thought goes into doing things wrong
Originally Posted By: Mike Parks This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Robert
I went back today. I am sure there is a loose connection or a bad outlet.
I cannot find this problem (in a 16 year old home) because the home is sold and the seller will not spend the money to find this 'intermittent' problem.
PS the HI did not find or call this problem.?
There are only three places it could be, in this home.