Hardieplank board siding.

I have a client that has haedieplank, they are now (5-years) later starting to get water intrusion in several places, they cut holes into the drywall to look,
I found staples on the inside, it appears they used staples instead of nails to install the siding, the Hardieplank installer, stated that Herdie has changed the installation instructions since the installation.
other issues, no flashing at joints, 1" in overlap.

Never heard of staples being allowed to install Hardie Siding.
If it was leaking, it probably was lacking EPDM flashing every where it is required.
Was it installed on a drainage plane?
Problably not.
Shortcuts tend to hit you in the butt after awhile. :slight_smile:


Thanks Chris, my bad, I should have posted that. :slight_smile:

I had the link close by :slight_smile: I needed it a few days ago with a 5 yr. old brick/combo.

Yea, and I was looking at it to see if staples was recommended. :):wink:

Thanks thats the one I got, if you look at the upper right corner it says amended November 2010. interesting, You have to wonder how much trouble they are having, I don’t see much of it around here.

I noticed that. One I did last week was a 5,000 sq ft high-end home built in '06. All brick except HP in the rear. Didn’t use kick-out flashing where recommended, no “visible” damage. Builder owned.

Still don’t remember staples being used to install the product when it came out though. :slight_smile:

Me neither.

no go staples '03](http://web.archive.org/web/20040725030522/http://www.jameshardie.com/pdf/hardiplankinstall.pdf)

my file is too large to upload if anyone needs it email me…

I have an installers guide from a couple years back, staples are not allowed and flashing is required.

I prefer stainless steel nails.

So do I Nick and nothing other than. :slight_smile:

Thanks Barry.

But don’t nail galvanized flashing with stainless steel nails. Galvanic corrosion will corrode the flashing.

Agreed Kenton, but you can use stainless with alluminum. :slight_smile:

Why is that, Marcel, They’re pretty far apart on the galvanic chart.

I know they are Kenton, but working On a Naval Destroyer, they use stainless with alluminum, but even with painted steel, alluminum has to have electrolic tape applied. It appears that even with salt water, stainless to alluminum does not react.


And I am talking 316 stainless.

Now since the Navy requires and says that is OK, the dictionary seems to say otherwise.
Now I am really confused. :mrgreen::wink:

For example, consider a system is composed of 316 SS (a 300 series stainless steel; it is a very noble alloy meaning it is quite resistant to corrosion and has a high potential) and a mild steel (a very active metal with lower potential). The mild steel will corrode in the presence of an electrolyte such as salt water. If a sacrificial anode is used (such as a zinc alloy, aluminium alloy, or magnesium), these anodes will corrode, protecting the other metals. This is a common practice in the marine industry to protect ship equipment. Boats and vessels that are in salt water use either zinc alloy or aluminium alloy. If boats are only in fresh water, a magnesium alloy is used.

I find that in this business, sometimes the more you learn, the less you know.:roll:

Ain’t that the truth Kenton. ;):slight_smile: