The article read was basic basement waterproofing
I inspect many basements throughout the Puget Sound region and am always on the look out for moisture intrusion and subsequent damage. I learned through the article the importance of properly draining gutters & downspouts and the impact poorly draining gutters & downspouts can have on the basement walls and floor. I have identified more signs of moisture intrusion such as failing paint and stains at column footings which lead me toward a more accurate identification of the source/reason. Redirecting downspouts and improper grading have since become a common cause and cost effective recommendation in my reports. The waterproof procedure description was useful and I am more confident commenting on those basements that have been waterproofed for proper practice.
Patrick
This picture of the missing facia trim was on one side while on the other sides the facia trim was unsecured in various locations. It was noted in the report that the facia trim must be installed and secured to prevent possible moisture from entering into the attic and atop interior walls. There were no signs of deterioration on the wooden ficia board itself but further evaluation from a qualified contractor would be needed to confirm the facia board since it was concealed with the aluminum facia trim.
Hello Everyone, especially to those taking the course on inspecting the exterior. During one of my most recent home inspections, as I began the initial walk around of the exterior, I noticed this damage of the brick veneer on the corner of the garage. Upon closer inspection, there was an impact point where the brick was driven in approx. 1/2 of an inch, with vertical, diagonal and horizontal cracking from the impact point. There was no evidence of structural damage from the outside, and this evidence was confirmed once inspecting the interior of the garage behind the noted damage. Undoubtedly, there was enough of an air space between the brick veneer and the wood and concrete block structural components, that the impact damage was only to the brick veneer. My recommendation was to repair and seal to help prevent moisture intrusion into that area which would cause the wood structure to deteriorate.
Hope you are enjoying or have enjoyed the course as I have. Thanks for allowing me to share the inspection and photo.
Mike Flowers
Mike’s Home Inspection Services, Inc.
Americus, GA
Ben, I am really enjoying the course requirements and extras through InterNACHI. How to Inspect the Exterior is one of those I have enjoyed. The two articles I have read are: “Solid Brick vs. Brick Veneer” and “Inspecting Brick Veneer in Residential Construction.”
‘Solid Brick vs. Brick Veneer’
The article begins by speaking to the one distinguishing characteristic of solid brick and brick veneer. They are made virtually of the same material but their installation techniques are different.
‘Solid brick’ houses, which are also known as double-brick and solid masonry houses, are built from either two layers of brick or a layer of concrete block and an adjacent layer of brick on the exterior. The article speaks to the critical fact about this type of solid brick construction, “The brick is part of the building’s structural support system; if the brick were removed, the building would suffer structural failures.”
‘Brick veneer’ houses look almost identical to solid brick structures, except that they are built using a very different technique. With the house itself being constructed from steel or wooden framing and then covered with wood sheathing or insulation, a single layer of brick is built near each exterior wall and attached to the house with metal ties. Here is an important fact brought out in the article, “Veneer brick does not support the structural load of the building; if the brick were removed, the house would continue to stand.”
During installation, the solid brick and brick veneer use the same bricks, but each style becomes defined during installation.
The inspector can use the presence of the following elements to determine that a wall is solid brick rather than brick veneer. There is the presence of ‘header bricks.’ These bricks appear smaller than the other bricks, but they are actually the same size; laid sideways, only the short end is visible. Header bricks are found in every sixth row in many solid masonry configurations, although other configurations are possible. When metal ties are used to hold the two layers together, no header bricks are required. This makes the wall appear to be brick veneer.
There is the presence of ‘reinforced arches’ that surround windows in solid brick houses. These reinforced arches are built with blocks that face in toward the house to reinforce the opening.
And houses older than 30 years are much more likely to be solid brick than brick veneer.
The author, Nick Gromicko, goes on to give the benefits of both solid brick and brick veneer in house construction practices. Good article that I would recommend to anyone to read.
‘Inspecting Brick Veneer in Residential Construction’
This is a rather lengthy article by Aaron Miller, Certified Master Inspector, Dallas, Texas and surrounding area. The author listed some of the most common defects of brick veneer that he has run across in his years of performing inspections:
Handling of bricks during placement, prior to their installation. Many times he has seen the brick simply delivered and stacked in contact with the ground where moisture could be absorbed into the brick prior to installation.
The lack of weep holes or weep hole blockage by dripping mortar during installation or home owners stuffing the weep holes with improper material to prevent small rodents.
The author speaks of problems with the air space between the structural components the brick veneer. Then, there are brick wall ties that usually only can be inspected during new construction. He gives 3 to 4 primary functions that wall ties perform between the brick veneer and its backing: They provide a connection; they transfer lateral loads; they permit in-plane movement to accommodate differential movement; and in some cases, they restrain differential movement. He speaks to other common defects such as sloping horizontal surfaces, mortar types. He give several of the top flashing issues he has encountered which are: lack of discontinuity in brick sill flashing, lack of flashings at lintels; lack of end dams at flashings; lack of knee wall flashings at roof and side wall junctions; and improper chimney flashings. He speaks of several other areas where common defects are found when inspecting brick veneer. I would recommend you read this article to discover the full impact of information the author gives. He concludes the article giving some trivia and facts about brick performance that is interesting. Good article and again would recommend its reading by a home inspector.
Thanks for allowing me to post on the two articles.
Mike Flowers
Mike’s Home Inspection Services, Inc.
Americus, GA
Upon reading the article " Zoning Ordinances for Inspectors", every home inspector cold serve their clients better and more professional if they familiarize themselves with local zoning laws. Zoning ordinances are restrictions and limitations set by local governments. Laws set by zoning ordinances are divided into 3 areas: 1. residential, 2. commercial, and 3 industrial.
This image is of an outdoor outlet located on a deck. The outlet is GFCI protected and has a proper self-closing cover to protect it from the weather.
Electric Fences: Electric fences are used primarily to keep livestock in a designated area. The four key components to an electric fence are the energizer, the conductor, the post supports, and the ground.
Eminent Domain: Eminent domain, is the right of a government to seize a citizen’s property without their consent but with due monetary compensation. The property is taken either for government use or by commission to third parties for public use, or, in controversial cases, for economic development. Specific uses for seized property are typically for public utilities, highways, railroads, and for public safety.
This is a picture of the front of the home. The siding material is aluminum. Though over 20 years old it is in good shape. The wood front porch is in good shape the landing is at least 3feet by 3 feet. The hand rail is between 34 ad 38 inches. The spacing on the horizontal guard and step safety spacing is proper.
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Thad Shounick
Davenport Iowa
Green Lumber
Green Lumber is wet lumber that has a moisture content of over 19%.Green lumber is less expensive and softer than dried would so it can be split more easily and it is easier to drive nails in it. Using green would can lead to nail pops, mold, gaps due to shrinkage and sap and liquids can ooze out of it. Green wood should not be used for burning in wood stoves or fire places except in the driest regions.
House Numbers.
House numbers should be large enough so emergency responders such as the police or ambulance can clearly see them from in front of the home. House numbers should be large and of a contrasting color of the house. House numbers should face the street or be clearly displayed at the driveway entrance if you have a long driveway. Some cities have regulations on the size of house numbers such as 4 inches and impose fines if they are not of proper size.
[ATTACH] [/ATTACH] this photo recently taken during a melt event. Concrete settling twards structure. This produces large puddles in walkway. Also a slip and trip hazard as the edges of the slab raise up due to settling. Would recommend that a landscaping and concrete professional be consulted.
Just read the article on bathroom fan and ducts, was taught many years ago that as long as there is a Window no fan and vent are required. I can tell you that I have painted many bathrooms over the years and probably 90 % of these bathrooms have had dirty fans . So much as they were non effective in getting the moist air to the outside. These bathrooms also usually have large amounts of mildew on the walls and ceilings . then people wonder why there bathrooms have excess mildew problems.
My name is Joe James and this is my inspection and writing assignment for the “How to Inspect the Exterior” Course.
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These pictures were taken on the exterior wall of my rental home in Denver,CO. As you can see these masonry walls need to be re-pointed. There is significant space between the bricks. There is also some efflorescence on the back wall near the gutters due to heavy leaking from the detached downspout. I would report this and recommend a professional come check it out.
This image is of a driveway that was part of an inspection. The driveway is broken up in many places after years of deterioration and neglect. This asphalt needs to be reviewed by a qualified paving contractor and repaved as needed.
This is my writing assignment for the How to Inspect the Exterior course.
Pictured is what appears to be a hairline foundation crack emanating from a basement casement window. The crack continues from the window down to the ground level. Upon closer inspection from the inside of the basement, the crack does not appear on the interior. It is likely a crack in the cementitious coating of the concrete block wall. Nevertheless, the crack was filled with silicone caulking to prevent moisture from entering it. There are several other smaller cracks in other places in the concrete block foundation wall, All of the cracks, including the one pictured, have not changed in numerous years, leading to the conclusion that these are likely settlement cracks not posing any danger. In an inspection, however, they would be reported.
Tom Bianchi
This is my writing assignment for the How to Inspect Exterior Course.
How to inspect brick veneer
Brick is the best exterior cladding ever devised.
Prior to placement, bricks should never be stored in direct contact with the ground. 3/16" weep holes should be provided to allow water to drain from the space between the brick veneer and the underlayment.
A 1" air space should be provided between the brick and the underlayment. Expansion joints should be provided every 25’ of wall with no opening.
Brick wall ties are used to hold the veneer in place. These are nailed to the underlaying sheathing. Lintels are used to support the veneer over openings.
Spalling occurs due to the absorption of water after evaporation.
Bricks should not be painted and repairs include repointing of deteriorated joints. Cleaning should be done carefully so as not to weaken the brick surface and cause spalling.
Inspecting Visible Masonry
Inspection should account for climate, environmental concerns (e.g. nearby bodies of salt water), terrain and vegetation (to determine the soil drain moisture).
Cracking is the most common problem, including:
Shrinkage or expansion,
Sweeping horizontal cracking
Uneven settlement
Cracking in masonry piers
Excessive moisture is indicated by efflorescence. Stell lintel deflection cold cause cracking. Corrosion where joints and rebar are exposed needs to be repaired. Inadequate flashing may cause water to damage the mortar joints requiring repointing.
Tom Bianchi
Here is a picture I took during a move out inspection in between tenants. From this picture you can see that the roof is in pretty bad shape. The asphalt shingles have blown off, weathered, and worn pretty significantly. Thus compromising the homes envelope. Also, from this picture you can see the garage door is not aligned and the gutters are indented. I would also recommend that the downspout extend further away from the units foundation. Although I could not confirm, I would assume that the gutters would be full of asphalt particles due to the condition of the roof. As I continued into the property the ceiling in the living room showed signs of leaking.
“Crawlspace Hazards and Inspections”
Reading this article makes me aware of all the hazards that come with this portion of the inspection. It’s funny that you think of insects in crawlspaces but asbestos and hantavirus isn’t one that I think of. Making it a point to wear PPE while doing these inspections in crucial. Especially if you’re in a an region where insects are the least of your concern. You may need get more elaborate with your PPE.
“Evaporative Coolers”
I live in Utah and the evaporative cooler is a popular choice here. It’s cost efficient and easy to maintain. Although here we have some pretty hard water, which makes the cooler wear out a lot quicker. I do find that here the temperature drop is usually around the 15-25 degree mark instead of the upwards of 40 mark they mentioned in the article. I also didn’t know how efficient they are. If they weren’t such a pain and a ticking time bomb I’d humor one for my home.
The following photos were taken as part of the exterior inspection class. They show two different problems. First there are vines growing on the foundation of the house which could cause premature deterioration of the mortar joints between the bricks. The second is the a photo of recently installed vinyl siding that was cut and installed improperly. It is cut too short and is not seated completely in the J channel which could cause it to come out during heavy winds.
I read the articles about Aluminum siding inspection and basement waterproofing. I was curious because during the section of the course discussing siding there was heavy discussion on the ability of water to drain from between the siding and substrate. In the article it states that Aluminum siding is waterproof, is that why there is no mention of an air gap for water drainage?
In the article discussing waterproofing I found it interesting that there is a coating available that will react with the lime to make the wall waterproof. I wonder why there is no mention of the fact that the bulk of leaking basements are a result of broken/clogged drains at the footer which causes the water to build up on the outside of the wall (which is normally not back filled correctly to begin with), and then it finds a penetration. Also there is no mention of the fact that waterproofing the inside of the wall will not prevent the water from building up in the wall cavity which will cause problems down the road as well.
Downspout Issue. Downspout near garage is too short and missing extended downspout. The downspout should be 4 to 6 feet from house for proper drainage. If the downspout is too short, water will not drain correctly and can collect next to the foundation wall and penetrate into home foundation. It can also cause damage to exterior wall. The downspout fasteners appear to be in good condition.
