Originally Posted By: ddubose This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Long story on this one-- Have the State involved–builder not licensed–son trying to fix dad’s mistakes, but he was trained by dad–called back for followup to see if repairs were make correctly–oh boy.
What we have here is this. There is a load bearing wall going the same direction as the I-Beams, but guess where it falls--- in between the I-Beams. The wall has dropped about 1/2" but the house is only 2 1/2 years old. He has added these blocks trying to stop the drop, I guess. And I can't even find where they are nailed, just pushed up there. I know this isn't correct, but what do I say in my followup report. I have never met anyone who is supposed to be a contractor knowing so little.
David
Originally Posted By: ckratzer This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
You’ve already covered yourself by pointing it out to your client.
If I were fixing it here’s what I’d do and have done on two occasions in the past.
The obvious and simple thing is we know the wall must be supported by a double joist if the wall is a2x4 wall or triple if 2x6.
The hard thing is getting them in there because of silly little things like elec.wires,plumbing, and mechanical components.You might be able to work around them you might have to disconnect,cut loose, drop them whatever.Or you may be lucky enough to have an empty bay.
I cut about 1/2" to 1 " out of the bottom of my 2x10 or 12 joist.I make that cut from the end to about 1’ back.You need room to slide past support walls and(or) beams.These joists have to be slid in place in singles flat wise and then twisted into place and probably sledged until vertical.When you have them in place there is a very good chance you will then have to jack them up with a few wood posts and bottle jacks to acheive level.Take your time in the jacking up process. (maybe 3/16 a day)to avoid exsessive cracks in the drywall. Once it’s where it should be shim the notched ends with solid shims.
The blocks you show are not a terrible idea and is sometimes used on load bearing wet walls but the gap is generally onlythe width of the wall to allow for pipes to pass through.
I think trying to span what looks to be 16" o.c. is a little much.
As far as an HI is concerned you’re best advise for them would be structural engineer .How it’s fixed is up to them.
Originally Posted By: ddubose This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
The blocks were added by the son contractor to support the floor below where the load bearing wall is. It is my understanding that I-Beams are engineered units and trying to transfer load to the bottom cord is a no no. I think he should take these out and come up with another plan. Am I wrong?
Originally Posted By: lkage This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
ddubose wrote:
The blocks were added by the son contractor to support the floor below where the load bearing wall is. It is my understanding that I-Beams are engineered units and trying to transfer load to the bottom cord is a no no. I think he should take these out and come up with another plan. Am I wrong?
David
Good advice:
Quote:
As far as an HI is concerned you're best advise for them would be structural engineer .How it's fixed is up to them.
-- "I have never met a man so ignorant that I couldn't learn something from him."
Galileo Galilei
Originally Posted By: ccoombs This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
The blocks will transfer the load only to the bottom chord and can cause the bottom chord to separate from the plywood flange and you will have much more than a 1/2" deflection. It might be as easy as adding three nails on each side of the block…but that would need to be calculated.
Cheremie gave a good fix. There are lots of options.....but an engineer needs to come up with the fix.
Originally Posted By: rgallahorn This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
My usual wording is something along the lines of “Have a structural engineer review the questionable area and develop a corrective action plan” I also recommend that the structural engineer approve the work when complete. Take the burden off yourself as this issue may have long term ramifications.
Originally Posted By: lewens This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
I think I would be taking a good look at all the framing and the drawings. If the builder didn’t know enough to do this correctly what else is wrong and if there are no drawings I would definitely call an engineer and have him have a look. I find it hard to believe an architect would have design it that way.
