Go to Publications, then I-Joists and download any of the numerous .pdf files. The one called “I-Joist Construction Details - Performance Rated I-Joists in Floor and Roof Framing” is large but pretty comprehensive. At 1st glance, your photo appears OK.
Originally Posted By: cbuell This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
according to the Truss Joist design guide, when you cut the joist and header it off as shown in the picture the two outside joists are supposed to be doubled up. Essentially the middle joist and loads above are now being added to the loads of the two outside joists. May be ok. May not.
Originally Posted By: ccoombs This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Charles is correct. The normal thing is to double up the joist that are carrying the additional load. However, this is not always required. As long as the overall span of the joist is short compared to the maximum allowable spans, it should not be a problem.
Originally Posted By: lkage This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
ccoombs wrote:
The normal thing is to double up the joist that are carrying the additional load. However, this is not always required. As long as the overall span of the joist is short compared to the maximum allowable spans, it should not be a problem.
That was my thought, too.
-- "I have never met a man so ignorant that I couldn't learn something from him."
Galileo Galilei
Originally Posted By: scieslewicz This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
I joists are often cut in the middle section (web) to accommodate plumbing, etc. As others have said, check with the manufacturer. Normally doubling is not necessary unless the upper or lower flange has been cut or notched. A web cut out normally doesn’t require a repair.
Originally Posted By: bking This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
I don’t think this is right. That setup is placing a point load on the I-joists. An I-joist is not rated to be a header or girder. The load on the hanger and short I-joist could potentially be several hundred pounds and exceeds its design rating.
Those short I-joists should be double 2x10's, 2x8's might be strong enough but probably won't fit the application.
Originally Posted By: scieslewicz This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Bruce,
I agree and that's why it's important in an instance like this to have a S.E.'s (or a design professional from the manuf.) repair. I've even seen I joists used as rim joists, it was questioned and the engineer provided documentation stating it was ok.
Originally Posted By: ccoombs This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
The head out in the picture is very common. I-joist are very strong and can take significant point loads. It all depends on the allowable spans.
Under no circumstance should an I-joist top or bottom chord be cut or notched. If a joist is notched or cut at the top or bottom chord an engineered fix is required. I would expect to see a solid member nailed to the web and/or a piece of plywood glued and nailed to the top and bottom chords. (This is a fix provided by the manufacture although you typically cannot nail to the side of the top and bottom chords).
It is very common for i-joist to be used as a rim joist. I do not do this because of several issues related to earthquakes. Shear walls require lots of sole plate nailing to the top chord. The nailing from the bottom chord to the first floor top plates is also questionable. And you shouldn't use framing anchors from the side of the bottom chord to the top plate. So this makes them very difficult to use in this part of the country.
It should also be noted that they require squash blocks at large point loads. This is also an often missed detail in the field.