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Radon Mitigation - Passive system “rough-in”
Home builders in some municipalities may only be required to complete the sub-slab preparation and then simply cap the Radon vent pipe just above the slab. This vent pipe could be connected and then routed through the home to the roof if radon mitigation is deemed necessary later on. Running the complete vent pipe through to the roof, at the time of construction, is the recommended “cost effective” approach.
Inspected the exterior Radon mitigation piping at the request of a homeowners association. While the piping met all EPA requirements, it was installed without the permission of the HOA.
I selected a photo from the gallery dealing with a standard radon mitigation system. Living in a State with high radon levels, knowing and understanding mitigation systems is vital. Having reaerched this topic, I now realize all plastic sheeting needs a 12" caulked overlap will help me better inspect crawl spaces.
For my exercise I chose to do the ‘Water Service Entrance’.
This water service entrance is installed to code and includes shutoff prior to pressure control/water meter and has the correct grounding in place.
The article I chose is on Radon.
In this article it stipulated the EPA recommendations for Radon. This included how serious a problem Radon is in the home and that home whether being sold or purchased should be tested for Radon levels and is readings are above 4 pCi/L mitigation should be considered.
It also reviewed the U.S. attorney Generals Health Advisory for Indoor Radon. This advisory discussed why test for Radon issues, common mitigation scenarios and reliable test results.
This is a photo of a manometer for a sub slab depresurization radon mitigation system installed in the basement of a house. The 3’ pipe is installed correctly and vents straight up through the roof, with the in line fan being located in the attic. This manometer is used to verify that the system is running and working properly.
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Inspecting the dryer exhaust.
When inspecting a dryer vent there are several things to look for. 1, make sure that the duct is 4" in diameter and is made of metal. 2, the ductwork should be as straight as possible and should be no longer than 35 feet in lenght including set lenghts for angled fittings. It is a recomended best practice to keep the length of vent pipe to a max of 25 feet. 3, the vent must exhaust to the exterior.
As part of this course requirements I chose a picture from a previous inspection that would fall into the category of radon mitigation. The picture below shows an abandoned thru slab water line that is not sealed and could allow for radon gas to enter the basement area of the home.
For my required reading I read “Crawlspace Hazards and Inspections”
I have lived the majority of my life in crawlspaces and have never realized one of the potential hazards mentioned in this article. Hantavirus. This is a virus that is carried by infected rodents and left behind in feces and urine. It can lead to Hantavirus Cardiopulmonary Syndrome (HCS) that can be fatal. Without UV radiation from the sun to help destroy the virus it can stay on the ground for quite some time. How many of you inspectors have went into a crawl space without the proper PPE as I have? I will not ever go into a crawl space again without proper PPE.
This Coal Chute is not air tight, and not insulated which allows atmospheric air to travel into the home which allows infiltration of radon gasses to potentially build above acceptable levels within the home.
This essay has to due with uncovered electrical outlets and child safety. Children are very curious and like to stick objects into outlets. it is best if there are inserts that one can buy from their local hardware and home store to block children from sticking items into the outlets.
A hot water heater is a modern luxury that most homes could not live without. A part of a homes mechanical system the hot water heater provides instant hot water to faucets, showerheads, dishwashers and washing machines. New technology has made the water heater more energy efficient than ever. Better insulation, heating on demand, and high-efficiency flues have all brought the hot water heater into the 21st century.
Window film is becoming one of the many ways to make a home more energy efficient. There are three options available. Some is applied to window coverings, the second is semi-permanent and is applied to window panes and the last is a new product called Heat Mirror trademarked. All three will reflect solar heat, increase R values of windows and provide shade.
Radon Inspection
Whileinspecting this residential home, there are cracks at the basement slab. Theseshould be properly sealed. Cracks in basement can be a source of radon gas entryinto the building. Other gaps and smaller cracks should also be sealed and monitoredto ensure that it is not a major structural issue
Radon Gas
You cannotsee, smell or taste radon. But it still may be a problem in homes. When youbreathe air containing radon, increases risk of lung cancer. In fact, theSurgeon General of the United States has warned that radon is the secondleading cause of lung cancer in the United States
This is an active sub-slab depressurization system that was installed in a home that I inspected.
As you can see from the pictures below, it does have a disconnect switch which is less than 6 feet from the fan which is fine. However the stack pipe does exhaust radon gas under the roof eaves. It also is about 3 feet from a bed room window. The exhaust pipe should have been extended through the eaves and above the roof surface by about 12 inches.
The rest of the mitigation system which is found in the basement was properly labeled as a Radon Reduction System. The date of installation, installer’s name and phone number, initial vacuum pressure, along with instructions on how to read the manometer are included. The instructed also recommend to the home owner to have the building tested for Radon every 2 year.
This is an active sub-slab depressurization system that was installed in a home that I inspected.
As you can see from the pictures below, it does have a disconnect switch which is less than 6 feet from the fan which is fine. However the stack pipe does exhaust radon gas under the roof eaves. It also is about 3 feet from a bed room window. The exhaust pipe should have been extended through the eaves and above the roof surface by about 12 inches.
The rest of the mitigation system which is found in the basement was properly labeled as a Radon Reduction System. The date of installation, installer’s name and phone number, initial vacuum pressure, along with instructions on how to read the manometer are included. The instructed also recommend to the home owner to have the building tested for Radon every 2 year.
I read three articles instead of two. First article was about Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters. The second was about Arc-Fault Circuit Interrupters. The third was about Green Lumber. I found all three articles very informative.
After reading the articles about GFCI’s and AFCI’s. I learned that more people are killed from electrical fires in their homes, which were caused by an arc in the wiring, than those that were killed from electrocution. In order to help prevent further deaths, AFCI’s and GFCI’s protection was developed for safety reason and that there is a need to inform our clients about the importance of these two devices.
The third article was about Green Lumber. I had learned two things from the article. One was that if green lumber is used during construction that mold can begin to grow. The other thing that I have learned was about nail pops. Nail pops occur when wood frame members shrink, a gap is created between the nail and the drywall. If the drywall and nail are pushed together, the nail may force the drywall surface to elevate. A common place for nail pops to occur is at the base of vaulted ceilings near external walls. Although unsightly, they usually do not affect the building’s structural integrity.
My photo shows a sump pump pit. It has a cover , however not one which would stop radon penetration . This course has inspired me to test my own home. I live in a zone 1 area in northern Maryland.
I read an article on radon. From what I 've learned during this course I’ve really become aware of how much time my wife and I spend in our basement. We have a finished basement with a family room , 1 bath and a craft room.
My first radon test will be carried out in my own house!
With finished basements being so common in my area, and living in a zone 1 area, I’ll be inclined to suggest radon testing to all my clients.
New construction pre closing inspection one of the many defects found was a HVAC duct not even connected to the 2nd floor area
