Originally Posted By: jcampbell This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Right… that is exactly what I recommended… then client had additional questions about how is SHOULD be installed… and I want to give a somewhat educated answer…
I see a lot of caulking/silicone on metal roofs that were installed after the fact... around chimneys, skylights, vents etc...
Originally Posted By: Jay Moge This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
not to mention the possibility that the asphalt roofs’ demise may verywell have been the leaky skylights. so installing a metal roof is just like putting duct tape on a leaky pipe, it may work for now, but wait…
Originally Posted By: dedwards This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Have a very good friend who is a superb professional carpenter. His comment on skylights is: “I’ve taken out a hellava lot more of them than I’ve ever put in.”
Originally Posted By: apfaff This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Wow, that last pic showed it all. The water would pour between the metal roof and the old roof. That trapped moisture could work its way in every direction. I believe they should have cut the hole smaller and seemed up the edges, then applied additional counter flashing. My father-inlaw is a tinner. He has all kinds of cool tricks to flash this properly. Have it evaluated. Do not tell them to caulk it. I have some experience with pole barns and one thing is for sure caulk does not work. Nether do those little grommets around the nails. Explain to them it was improperly installed and the remedy will require some creative flashing.
