This is a pool sub-panel with an 80amp breaker providing service from the main panel…I see so many issues here I want to make sure I’m not missing anything, all comments appreciated.
Why don’t you start by telling us what YOU see?
Beat me to it
The only potential issue I see here Sam, is the circuit neutral that is not connected to the neutral terminal. It has been spliced to the blue conductor that exits the panel.
Is there something else that you see?
Wiring entering the panel does not have proper protection. We recommend a grommet/bushing be installed.
I’ll give you that. What else?
I assume Sam is concerned that only one set of 20 amp breakers has fault protection, while the others do not. Although there could be GCFI protection else where in stream, so it’s hard to say if that is a concern or not.
I assume Sam is perhaps concerned that, unlike a house panel, at a pool sub panel, there is a much higher chance of all the equipment being on at the same time, and being fed from a 80amp breaker is not enough power. But without knowing all of what is connected to this sub panel, that is difficult to say.
I assume the 50 amp breaker is feeding a Spa tub, and often the GFCI protection for a Jacuzzi is at the breaker. And if running full blast while the pool pump and lights and whatever else are on, the 80 amp breaker may trip. But without knowing for sure there is Spa is there, and how it is configured, it’s all a wild guess without more information.
I see 4 gauge nuetral for 80 amp circuit, 8 gauge wires used for 50 amp circuit, no neutral for the 50 amp pool heater, no gfi protection for the pool light, why wouldn’t all pool equipment be gfi protected?
No, it does have a bushing it is black and hard to see in that photo.
75 degree rated #4 CU is acceptable for up to 85 amps.
The two-pole 50 amp (240V) circuit doesn’t necessarily require a neutral.
The GFCI protection for the pool light may be located elsewhere.
Not all pool equipment requires GFCI protection.
Correct me if I’m wrong, but I am under the understanding that FL does not use 120V circuits for their pool lighting, but instead, they use low-voltage lighting. If this is true, GFCI protection would not be required for the pool lighting.
Sometimes the light is on a dedicated GFCI breaker.
Sometimes there will be a high voltage transformer bringing it down to around 12V.
My pool was built in 2003. It’s on a transformer & GFCI.
I usually see the transformer but NOT a GFCI on older pools.
I’m always concerned that what if the transformer is inoperative with no GFCI?
Seriously, do you think I should make an info note on the report?
It’s #4 AL on 80A breaker, it is #8 CU on the 50 A breaker, pool lighting appears to be 120v.
There has been several pool lighting related electrocutions in Florida recently.
The research I’ve done indicates the Consumer Products Safety Commission recommends GFCI on all pool/spa related circuits. Thank you for your comments.
It’s all in ground pool /spa system, 50 amp breaker is supplying pool heater,thank you for your comments.
My guess is like many a/c compressors they based the breaker size and wiring by the tag on the unit. That can always get into a slightly heated conversation. Just ask Chuck.
In regards to the light, if the transformer goes bad, then the light should not work period. I would do my homework on what is required where you are at Sam, and not so much cspc recommendations.
My personal pool also has a gfci rated safety breaker, but its for 12 volts.
Here in Los Angeles, pool heaters are almost always gas, occasionally solar, and rarely electric.
Pool light info.
I’d prefer to hire a licensed guy though.
You’re right. The 80 breaker should be down-sized.
Which could be acceptable for a properly rated conductor.
I do often see a GFCI protected breaker for pool lighting protection, but more often than not, there is a GFCI receptacle or a stand-alone GFCI device located elsewhere in the equipment area.
That black thing is an NM connector.