Originally Posted By: grace gregorio This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
I am not sure what to do. I’d appreciate any insights you might be able to provide me.
In October 2003 we had a home inspection performed by US Inspect. We experienced problems with the home inspection even before we went to settlement. The radon report was not provided in time to require the sellers to remediate the elevated radon levels. The sellers eventually agreed to remediate the radon so this did not turn into any issue but this was a sign of things to come. As we spent more time in the house, we found more and more problems. I created a document listing all the problems with the house and sent it to US Inspect within 1 year of the home inspection.
I have been in discussions with their customer service department since then. Last week, I received their final offer and asked them to kindly reconsider their position. The US Inspect attorney, Edward E. How, III, declined to reconsider and stated in an email to me that ?there were no shortcomings in the inspection services conducted by our home inspector, Mr. Christian Radomicki?? He went on to say ?Your persistance [sic] turned what should have been nothing more than a $700 return-of-fee payout into an offer that eventually reached $6,200?
I am completely surprised by these statements and feel there is a misunderstanding at the US Inspect Headquarters. We have been in the house for a year and a half and have sunk about 10K into fixing problems that were visible at the time of the inspection and should have been identified on the home inspection report. I am working on a website to show you the issues and will post the URL information shortly.
I would really appreciate any help you could provide me with two main concerns with our house.
1) We have some sagging floors, diagonal cracks in the wall and several doors that don?t close completely. US Inspect has come back to our house a couple of times to look at these problems. US Inspect has indicated these are not structural issues. However, I have read on the US Inspect website that these kinds of problems can indicate a structural issue with the home. Makes me nervous! Does their assessment sound reasonable?
2) We have a water problem in the basement which was not mentioned in the US Inspect report. I am worried about mold because the humidity in the basement sometimes exceeds 60% even when running the dehumidifier full-time. I understand water problems can be attributed largely to grading, and gutters. We have installed a sump pump pit and sump pump to help take water out of the house after it gets in. We have a 3400 sq. ft house with one gutter on the back side of the house. Is that enough? I have received quotes from vendors to re-grade the property and it will cost $15,000 which doesn?t even cover the cost to purchase and install new landscaping.
This is adding up to be A LOT of money.
I?d appreciate any suggestions you might have re-garding, the structural issues and the settlement described above and with similar experiences.
Originally Posted By: jbushart This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Grace,
You have described issues which certainly indicate the possiblity of structural issues with your home. Before putting any more money into the home for repair, I would recommend that you consult with a structural engineer to see if the building is stable.
If you feel that you have reached the end of any reasonable negotiation with US Inspect for a just settlement, it may be in your interest to seek your own legal counsel to protect your rights and to ensure that any applicable statute of limitations have not expired before you have had that opportunity.
Your state requires your home inspector to carry the necessary amount of insurance to cover this kind of issue, if he is indeed at fault. Best of luck.
Originally Posted By: jbushart This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
I tried…I really tried…but I just can’t walk away from the fact that US Inspect is represented by an attorney named Mr. How. Would he be from the famous law firm of Dewey, Screwum & How?
Originally Posted By: dbowers This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Grace -
I grew up in a foundation / excavation family and am quite familiar with grading, drainage and cost issues. When you say that you've got quotes of $15,000 to regrade your property - that sounds like someone is trying to yank your shorts down. Thats totally ludicrous.
Like someone else already said - if you think you've got big issues call a competent HI or licensed structural engineer with years of wood-framed residential experience in inspecting homes to get a 2nd opinion.
You can rely way too much on repair guru's that manage to turn a $300 problem into a $7,000 fix for their own gratification BUT they sound like HERO's to a naive homeowner.
If you had not filed prior to October 2004, you may be limited in your recovery efforts. A viable Cash Offer from US Inspect at this time may be worth consideration.
Originally Posted By: grace gregorio This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Thanks everyone for the posts and the emails. This has been very helpful to me.
"Customer service is our #1 priority" was not the case for me. Regrettably the negotiation with US Inspect has ended unfavorably.
I will be pursuing other avenues to have this resolved in a reasonable manner.
One avenue that I am taking is thru the purchase of the domain www.usinspectS.com. I will be continuing to work on the web pages to document the problems with the home inspection and US Inspect's responses.
Originally Posted By: Mark Anderson This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
D Bowers wrote “you can rely too much on repair guru`s that manage to turn a $300 problem into a $7,000 fix for their own gratification BUT they sound like a HERO to a naive homeowner.”
You`re correct about that but NOT all including my company Dan. With that said it should also be noted that your statement about"If you think you have big issues call a competent HI" is also very self-serving....for the HI isnt it.
Many...not ALL... HI`s "THINK" they are some kinda Structural Wizard but have Never done any kinda structural & waterproofing work & had to guarantee it over long period of time. Just like G Haege giving out a one sided-self-serving BS story about structural & waterproofing work.
From what i`ve seen/heard over Many years in Michigan is alot of so-called experts are hardly that & should simply keep the pie-hole shut.
Originally Posted By: grace gregorio This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
In my case, I received several written quotes from local firms for this work so I feel comfortable with the estimates that I am quoting.
I appreciate both of your perspectives and insights as I am not an expert in this and am interested in hearing your opinions as there might be things that I have not considered.
Originally Posted By: Mark Anderson This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Grace,
In my neck of the woods MOST…90%…of seepage/leak problems in basements are because they are direct-openings on the outside of the house which allows water/moisture to enter into the house.
These direct openings include vertical/step/diagonal/horizontal cracks in basement walls and above ground such as openings in mortar joints/cracked-porous bricks/caulking needs around windows-doors-where AC hose enters home/ chimney flashing etc. All need to be correctly `n completely fixed.....Outside.
IMO....most problems are Not because of 'grading and gutters'. Nothing wrong w/having the grade pitched away from home `n longer extensions on downspouts but this ISNT "how and why" water-moisture enters a home-basement which then can cause mold/efflorescence ` radon gas/insects etc to enter.
A sump pump`s ONLY use is like you state...to take water outta the house. It controls the water-level under the basement floor,period. It does Not in any way 'Solve-Waterproof-Fix' direct openings Outside......cracks in walls/tuckpointing `n caulking needs etc. However, If you/others have cracks in the basement floor `n water comes up through these cracks then a sump(s) is exactly what you need to'Control' the water level under the floor Before it can accumulate quickly and rise up through the cracks.
Don`t get me Wrong here on gutters! If water is allowed to come off a roof and Splash `n Soak against bricks-windows etc when there should be a downspout there or poor seams in gutters then Of Course!!..Yes!..it can be a problem. 
Originally Posted By: grace gregorio This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Thanks Mark,
We definitely have a grading issue as the dirt line was above the bottom of the siding.
I appreciate the additional information on what other causes might be contributing to this problem. What kind of craftsman should I contact to take a look to see if there are other issues that you mention?
Originally Posted By: dbowers This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Mark -
Either I didn't say it correctly or you didn't read my post the way I meant it. I've done this home inspection thing full-time for over 25 years. I spent the 1st half of my life building highways, streets, basements, etc. I'm more familiar with grading, drainage and repair issues than 3/4 of the repair guru water-proofing contractors that I run into.
We specialize in expert witness on 3 things - moisture intrusion, shoddy construction/construction defects and to rebuff or defend an engineer. To date we've never lost one we've been involved in.
Now back to my original statement: a great amount of the time IN MY AREA, I see the water coming in from poor grading and/or drainage AND I see repair guru's trying to scare the home owner into a very expensive fix when VERY MANY times its totally unneeded - IN MY AREA
Thats why I feel a homeowner should call a competent HI or structural engineer - they don't have a vested interest in the repairs
Originally Posted By: jmurphy1 This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
I looked at a house recently where a homeowner had placed a sump pump in the ground outside the home.
He dug a sump pit in the ground close to the foundation and installed a pump and plastic pipe which would empty the water into the front yard in the grass.
The house was a tri Level and they had had water enter the lower level in the past.
Originally Posted By: Mark Anderson This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Dan/any HI,
You say that you see water coming in from"poor grading and/or drainage"....My questions would then be....1) when inspecting basement walls and you see a crack(s) in the wall wiil you/do you recommend fixing the crack(s) or rather first recommend better grading-drainage? 2) if you see that water is entering through rod holes or where a gas line comes through a wall do you first rec`d grading-drainage? 3) block wall, if you see water/evidence of water intrusion along the isolation joint do you first rec`d grading-drainage?
lolol  ...i could pose 100s quest`s....but 2 more 4) whenever you notice/see mold-efflorescence 'ON' a basement wall,esp block, do you first rec`d better grading-drainage? 5) if basement is not finished and you see some bowing of a wall, lets say 2 inches or LESS,do you first rec`d better grading-drainage?
Dan...like i said and agree w/you on Yes...there are Many Structural repair--basement waterproofing co`s who are full of shtt and/or are to dumb ta figure out what EXACTLY the homeowners problem actaully is,because Both are evident here in Mich.
And many of these companies can`t wait to get into peoples homes and BS the shtt outta them and/or yes, scare the shtt outta them.
Believe it or not,there are a few of us out here who do not BS homeowners...ever! First, i dont charge a penny to inspect bsmt walls or go to court as expert witness,second....if indeed there is a crack in the wall i will not only show `n explain that the crack is the Reason water is entering(causing mold etc) i will also take the Time to show them.
I will run a hose on a dry day on the outside of the house where the crack is or if bsmt is finished,on the outside of where they get water inside,from ground level down. Now...unless the crack was fixed correctly in the PAST it is going to leak. The crack then is why `n how water is entering,has nothing to do with the grade. If there wasnt a crack in the wall there wouldnt be water coming in,wouldnt be mold/efflorescence on the wall.
On the other hand,when a homeowner has say water stains up high on a wall and/or efflorescence etc...then MOST likely there is/are Direct Openings 'Above ground level' that is allowing water/moisture to enter.Meaning there will be openings around a bsmt window,1st floor window,around doors or a/c hose or tuckpointing needs. They don`t need any bsmt waterproofing work,but they still need to fix/seal the 'above ground level' openings. I`ll show them that as well,after running a hose at ground level,if they Do Not get water in i will then run the hose/water around the bsmt window and so on. And they will get water in through whatever is open! Has nothing to do with grading.
Originally Posted By: Mark Anderson This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
One more thing…let`s say we have a homeowner who recently purchased a home and since moving in the first good rain comes and they notice water in basement,in 1 area and there was no mention of leakage/seepage problem on disclosure statement or from any inspection.
Lets say this goes to court. Now...if the Judge/Anyone REALLY cares and wants to actually see/know why there is water entering this basement then they will 'Take the Time' and go over to the house and let me run the hose/water test. Obviously i`ve already done the test for the new owner and there is a problem with the bsmt wall in that 1 area.
Here`s what i`ll do...is it grading-drainage VS crack...First, without anything being changed on the outside of this problem area i`ll run the hose at ground level and within 1--15 minutes they will see water entering in the basement through the crack/wall. Already this should tell anyone with any common sense the problem is the wall,the crack.
But to take it one step further i`ll explain and then show it has zero ta do with adding top soil/raising grade on that side,in that area. Yes...lol, i`ll put down a yard or so of top soil...raising and then sloping away and then run the hose in same spot `n guess what? Exactly.....water will yet again enter the wall because there is a crack. Not because the grade was low...jesus folks,c`mon....if there wasnt a crack or other problem with the bsmt wall it wouldnt leak, Case Closed!
Originally Posted By: jmurphy1 This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Mark when I took my real estate classes they were taught by an old real estate attorney. He had been around the block once or twice.
One of the statements he made in class was the following:
"if a basement is leaking, studies have shown that 90% of the time the leak can be fixed by simply correcting the grading and making sure the gutters and downspouts are working properly to get the rainwater away from the foundation".
I have relayed that statement many times to buyers and sellers.
I have bought homes with water coming in the basement and I used the above to correct the problems and it has worked for me.
A lot of water comes off the roof during a heavy rainstorm. We had a heavy rainstorm a week ago and I did not have any problems. I did the above remedy to my mother's home and she did not have water coming into the basement while her neighbors did.
Originally Posted By: dbowers This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
well as condensation or high humidity are all part of the overall picture.
Adressing whether the cracks are caused by heaving, settlement, pressure bowing, hydrostatic pressure, shearing, etc and the size and shape of the cracks is also part of our examination. Determining whether the movement of a concrete or block foundation is over 1" or under 1" (with no significant cracking) is also part of our examination. All these factors come together to help us determine who to refer the client to for further repair or sometimes further evauation.
Originally Posted By: Mark Anderson This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Wowie zowie!
JM, a real estate attorney whom you took classes from who had been around the block once er twice made the following statement"if a basement is leaking,studies have shown that 90% of the time the leak can be fixed by simply correcting the grading & making sure the gutters & downspouts are working properly to get rainwater away from foundation".
Let`s examine this a lil more closely  ... 1)you stated that a real estate attorney who teaches classes...... Not exactly a basement waterproofing/structural repair person/owner who has actual experience & hands on knowledge by doing the work AND guarantees the work over extended period of time......2)this real estate atty/teacher makes the following statement to his class that Supposedly Some Studies show "90% of the time a leak in a basement can be fixed by simply correcting grade/gutters etc".....i would sure like to see these supposed studies and WHO supposedly did the studies and HOW these studies were carried out.
Some of you are missing the Most Important points i`ve been patiently `n honestly trying to make.
Your simply going to agree with some supposed study(s) that a real estate atty/teacher says is true??? That because some study-statement(s) is in ink/printed or on some web site that it HAS to be true? It must be true? Bllllchtt 
You`d rather rely on this? You`d rather NOT question whether this is actaully true? Your taking what someone who is evidently not in the business and has no 1st hand knowledge is the Final Word and You actually pass this same stuff on to all homeowners??
So that means you think i`m on here posting bllshtt? Why? For attention?         
I`ll say this again.....Anytime i receive calls from homeowners who have leaks/seepage and were told/recommended by HI-SE that by raising grade/fixing gutters is 90% of peoples problem and would most likely fix theirs i not only tell them they were just fed a line of crap-myth-misinformation...i will go over and SHOW them why `n how water is entering.
Some of you state Exactly what G Haege states!!!! Another who has No-Hands-on knowledge but" Thinks" he does. And the REAL problem is this stuff keeps getting shuffled around because you & Haege `n many others are passing misinformation on to"Unsuspecting" homeowners...without ANY hands on knowledge.
To make statements like"Oh, i raised the grade at my Mom`s and now she doesnt leak" or "I recommended extending the downspouts to seller and now they dont leak"doesnt mean diddley if you actually do not follow up over long time with these homeowners,people. After recommending this stuff...Do YOU call these people back,say after,,3,4,5-10 years and ask them if they have had any water in the basement since your recommendation...Be Honest!!!!! I highly highly doubt that you do, so then you Really do not know the true outcome of whether the grade-gutter stuff was all that was needed or that the new
homeowner needed tuckpointing,caulking,a certain section of bsmt wall waterproofed etc.
I`m going to tell you that quite a few of these homeowners who recently bought a home and found they indeed did have a problem..do not want to screw around and go after an HI or SE who provided bad-misinformation. If/when they call me they are beginning to Change that tune! They simply want their leak fixed...correctly & finally. They tell me they dont want to waste time going after $300-400, if they have to screw around `n blow time to get things right, they`d rather go after seller. I say go after Both.
Again i`ll ask HI`s...many of you state that you do inspect the foundation,the basement walls. That its part of the inspection They are paying for and you are charging and that you also state is 'Very important'. If this is true, then when the basement is finished..drywall-paneling, then how do you know whats behind it if you/the seller doesnt take the time and effort to take it down? NO way you/they know what shape the basement wall is in,no way you know for sure if there is bowing/buckling/cracks/ etc. Right...you fluff it off `n say something like"We cannot fully examine-inspect foundation etc..." and prolly add that seller should consult an SE.
And i say fine, thats fine...if the seller doesnt want to REALLY know what shape the walls are in then thats on them, but maybe you should state that on your inspection. Something like...only way to fully inspect bsmt walls is to actually see/view them and homeowner is unwilling to take down paneling etc....wouldbt something like that in print keep yer azz off the foundation-hook?
Then when i go on these calls/estimates i`m not going to shtt on you, but the seller because they were willing to take the chance that the bsmt walls were fine. But when they arent & there are crack(s) bowing/buckling etc....in NO way should the new owner of a home be forced to pay for something that was left there..a Pre-exising problem before the actual sale of house which should have been fixed..correctly!
Over `n over,year after year and now...decade after decade i hear this from many homeowners"We were told to raise the grade" "We were told to extend the downspouts"...and that these measures and others would fix their leaks in basement. Well...if these means really did work, then why do i keep hearing and seeing this does NOT work at all. Again, the real reason all these people were leaking,90%+, was because they needed 1 or more of the following...some basement waterproofing,tucking,caulking,flashing tarred,new windows,block up existing vents-screens in new block bsmt windows.
I`ll bet that maybe some of you....maybe, will call back after 6 months or 1 year(let alone 3,5,10 yrs.....do you? Because if you call back say one time in first 6 months or so, thats Hardly Any Factual evidence that your recommendations to raise grade/gutters actually corrected the true problems, to me it means Nothing. Thats no kind of decent long term period to base true facts on, not in this business! And some of you may not call at all, or will call and ask the new owner how they are doing in first 1-2 months, even a shorter period of time to truly know if these recommdations worked.
And lets say that you did raise the grade/fixed gutters etc at your Mom`s or friends and that since then they havent had water in basement. Well..since when, how long has it been? Has it been 1--10 years? And maybe just maybe(this has happ`d alot) you heard that raising the grade would solve the problem..so you did, but in the meantime decided to replace a basement window or 2 or had some tuckpointing done.
Unknowingly...the problem all along was a basement window or tuckpointing yet some think nothing of that and think they fixed their problem by'simply raising the grade'. I give ya this....there are a FEW times where if a homeowner is leaking in 1 area in basement which actually has a thin/hairline crack in the wall(which is what they need to fix but dont) and IF they are lucky enough to have 'sand' against their walls that was used as backfill then a FEW times they will be lucky enough to add some top soil right on the outside on the leak/crack and it can divert enough water away from...the thin/hairline crack....for awhile.....but if that cracks pops open just a tad,ya best believe its going to leak. Also if that top soil which was added prior to sale of home washes away from immediate area during the transfer of homeowners ,yup,gonna leak and guess who is liable?
Many of you continue classes `n learning all you can, yet some refuse to give 1 lousy inch and stop `n think for a little while what i`m saying/explaining. Some Hi`s here do Get-It.....Thank God for that!