Question about Citizens New Wind Mitigation Reqs and Dry Rot.

I can’t find this information anywhere, and I’m hoping you fellow Floridians would mind answering for me, as Home Inspectors IN Florida you are best equipped to answer it.

I have done reading and see you guys discussing Citizen’s changes (Retail Live Wind Mitigation Inspections beginning this month), and from what I gather you can still use your own inspector, but they suggest using theirs.

My question is:

I’m trying to decide if I should move forward with installing shutters on my home (Built '92). The sole purpose of me doing this would be the insurance savings. Now I am worried I will put shutters up, and not get the discounts I expect.

I will have approved shutters on all windows.

1)If my door has no windows, Do I need to worry about it if it opens inward instead of outward?

  1. Do I need to worry about my garage door if its an older one or does that not matter?

And lastly a side question: I have a small dry rot problem in the attic from a previous leak, Any recommendations on who to deal with for this? From searching online I can’t decide who professionally deals with so I can contact the right person. Would this would it be Mold remedy companies? general contractors? I don’t see any “Dry rot specialists”.


Mike Martinez

1)If my door has no windows, Do I need to worry about it if it opens inward instead of outward?

No you don’t… what you need to worry about is if it is impact rated, unless you will be covering it.

  1. Do I need to worry about my garage door if its an older one or does that not matter?

If it has windows, yes. If it has no windows, no.

What it comes down to is this: all items in the home with glass/glazed/clear openings need to be impact rated or covered with a shutter to get a discount no matter how small. Now to go even further, your best option and the best discounts come from covering ALL OPENINGS in the home including those with and without glass/glazing. I have no idea how much of a difference there is between discounts for protecting all glazed vs. protecting all openings. This is something you may be able to speak with your insurance agent about.

As far as the dry rot, if it is severe it should have been corrected with the roof replacement. If not it can be left alone.

Edit: or actually I think there may be some type of paint you can use to coat the rotten area, not sure if it is specifically made for this purpose or if it is just regular paint but I have seen this a few times, maybe someone else can elaborate.

As for the dry rot, if its not too bad and you can reach it, you may want to look at this…


All doors including garage doors that don’t have any windows or openings, DO NOT need to be shuttered or impact rated to affect your discounts. ALL glazed openings need to be impact rated (large 9lb missile and documented), including skylights (4.5lb missile), or shuttered with approved storm panels / shutter systems (not plywood), to get full discount

So an inward swing wood door on a home in Miami Dade county that is not shuttered wont affect your discount? How’s that?


What if the house is in the HVHZ?

You are correct, non-glazed doors also need to be protected or impact rated in the HVHZ. But outside the HVHZ, non-glazed doors have no affect on the credits.

I don’t doubt you (I’ve heard the same thing) but I can tell you from my experience, when it comes to the credit difference between A1 and A3 outside of the HVHZ, I’ve also heard different from clients and agents. While A3 does provide a credit, some clients have upgraded their non-glazed openings because their agent told them they would get more of a credit. I’ve also heard the credit is the same regardless if the opening protection is rated A3 or A1. In the end, I advise the client to discuss the issue with their agent and if we can help in the future (reispection/revision) we will.

This is why we need some agents/underwrites on this forum!!

First, any decision regarding opening protection should not be made based on discounts alone, it should be made on the best options for protecting your home. In-swing doors are not recommended if they are exposed to weather with no protection from wind driven rain. If the door is well protected from wind driven rain (under a porch), an in-swing door is fine. Either should be impact rated regardless of you location, this provides you the best protection.

The garage door whether glazed or non-glazed should also be replaced with an impact resistant model. The garage door is a weak opening and you want it protected 24-7/365 from windstorms. Even minor tornadoes and thunderstorm straight line winds can damage garage doors, add a little flying debris from surrounding structures or trees and even the newer windload doors can fail. An impact resistant garage door is a very good idea and is only about 100-200 more than a windload door, it is a great investment in protecting your home, your personal possessions, and making sure you have a place to live following an event.

The mitigation credits are there to incentivize you to take action to protect your home, they are not meant to pay for improvements. Unfortunately most Florida residents and many inspectors are under the mis perception that mitigation credits are a right. They are an earned benefit resulting from hardening your home against potential damage. You can’t put a price on having a home to live in following an event. And, you can’t rebuild your businesses and community if you are displaced and have to relocate out of the area. Andrew, Katrina, the 2004 Hurricane season, and now Sandy serve as reminders of how coastal areas have made poor decisions in where and how to build. The billions spent by FEMA and insurers only cover loss of infrastructure and property damage. The loss of tax revenue due to loss of businesses and homes has a far greater and longer impact on community survival an sustainability.

So protecting your home is based on the need to provide a safe place for your family and personal possessions as your main goal. Beyond that valuable benefit, the deductibles that range from 2-30% mean any reduction in damage pays the owner first. In addition, homes that are safer and stronger retain the investment of these improvements for many years and have a higher value to buyers who are aware of the issues with insurance costs. So decisions should be made based on all of the benefits, not just eligibility for insurance credits.

[FONT=Calibri]Darius H Grimes CRC, CSI-CDT, CWMI[/FONT]
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[FONT=Calibri]Disaster-Smart Consulting Inc[/FONT]
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Well said Darius, and all true. These are all points to discuss with the policyholder when discussing improvements to the protection of the home, however this thread is more for the benefit of understanding the 1802.

They are a “right” if you have the hardened areas already part of your home, and we attempt to make sure your right is experienced to the level that your home is hardened and offer suggestions for improvements to increase credits.

Not going to work for a horiz or sloped surface like rf sheathing in Port St. Lucie, FL.