I’m having a structure built over an existing patio. The structure will be free-standing with four support posts but will practically go up right to the house. I had a contractor stop by today and give me a bid and he mentioned the only way to ensure there won’t be any water coming down between the structure and the house is the cut into the stucco and secure the flashing that way. I’m hesitant to have them cut into the stucco and that open a can of worms. Do I have any other options here?
First of all, we are not a construction forum.
He is correct, but I would hesitate and look at the design again. You do not want the roof to dump water down on your sidewall. Also, you do not want water to be directed towards your sidewall if connected, even with flashing. This all sounds like bad design.
If it needs to be connected to the house, this is the roof design I would recommend.
Once again, do not direct the water to the sidewall. That never works out well. I would go back to the drawing board.
This is the structure that will go along that wall. It’s a gable structure with a peak just below the window.
If you put the new gable against the existing wall, proper flashing is imperative for preventing water entry problems.
So, don’t forget the kickoff flashing:
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More info:
kickoff flashing on stucco wall
Agreed! You do not want water dumping on those windows!
I am relieved it is a gable. And a shed roof (though not as pretty) would be even less prone to issues in my opinion.
As Brian said, that is correct.
I have this exact same situation with my home. However, my main floor is block construction, looks like yours is wood frame?
So, the roof is simply caulked to the stucco wall, and heavy rains do result in water running down the wall into our patio.
Not a ton, but enough to be a nuisance. There is no other way to waterproof the shingles to the wall.
(I would take a picture for you, but it is dark) 
One can flash a block/brick wall by cutting a reglet/kerf in the wall and inserting the hemmed flashing into that reglet/kerf.
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The contractor is correct, and this would need a flat roof over the patio similar to this.
A tapered system could be provided to direct water to scupper downspouts and the flashing from roof to wall would be determined by the wall construction.
That would be my first choice.
Yeah, wood construction with stucco wall. That’s the dilemma I’m facing, do I want to expose the stucco and risk a bigger problem down the road with a bad patch? I’m more concerned with water getting into the house than keeping water off our paver patio. This structure won’t have walls so sideways rain will still get in somewhat. We live south of Denver and get about 15" of rain a year so not a ton of rain.
We like the gable look so the single slope is out for us. Also our patio depth (~19’) might make a single slope look odd.
I wouldn’t.
If your roof/wall intersection is flashed properly, there is nothing to worry about.
I would have to have a high degree of confidence in my contractor before allow him to hack into the side of my stucco home. Credit to the OP, he is trying to wrap his brain around what a proper connection to the home entails.
I think I would agree.
If you are not concerned about a little water possibly just dripping down the wall and getting into the patio, I would have them still use a flashing, but just surface seal it.
Here is a pic of my roof to wall… As you can see, the shingles butt right to the stucco, and then relies on tar sealant (which is cracking, again) This is the worst setup… Water still gets through occasionally, and the tar has to be maintained.
However, I wish they would have used a roof flashing, that goes under the shingles, and then seal that to the wall. This would have worked much better, without having to go into the wall.
This still isnt guaranteed 100% waterproof, but would work very well, as you only have that very top gap to worry about. (and it wont crack like mine is)
EDIT, see my next response below
I would have ZERO confidence in a contractor that would “HACK” into anything of mine. LOL!
From the STUCCO MANUFACTURERS ASSOCIATION:
Actually, in response to my own reply above, I didnt consider the roof framing being attached to the home.
In my example above, my enclosure is self supported. (metal panels, metal frame)
Yours will likely be wood framed, and secured to the home.
For this reason, it is imperative that it be flashed correctly, because water getting in would penetrate the attachment points, and lead to hidden water damage anyways.
It would need to be done like Larry posted above.
That detail works for new work when the stucco is not done, but in the case of the OP, you woud have to cut out a section wide enough above the roof line to install the flashing and then patch in the stucco back down to the new roof line. Then comes the difficult part on the stucco guy to match it in so it blends in with the existing so it is aesthetically acceptable.
In my opinion, one would be better to just cut-out the profile of the gable roof to attach the roof to the wall framing, and then when the roof gable is installed, cut out a reglet in the hard coat stucco to flash it to the wall to roof.
Similar to my idea, just cutting the stucco. That would work.
When you say reglet, you mean just cutting a groove like counter flashing at a chimney, correct?
Just trying to clarify for the op
Evening, Omar.
First let me say welcome to the InterNACHI forum.
Second mention. Putting roofed structurers such as gazebo or detached patio covers, and the roof slopes to the back wall creates added rain water to the soil next to the foundation. Bad idea I say.
Over time soil loss and depressions occur as well as the basement remaining damp much of the time.
In your case you have hardscaping porous/pervious material, aggregate. The hardscaping will settle and water will percolate quickly into the soil instead of being directed way from the foundation. Even your EFIS has poor gourd clearance.
Build away from the home.
