so you want to install a french drain INSTEAD of identifying the actual problem huh

(john bubber) #1

same shtt different day, folks you are getting the wrong information on your leaky basements… very often.
2:55… video, he says, ‘Homeowner has been experiencing water in basement’.
Ok fine, where is it entering man? lollol sheesh, he skips that important part and quite likely just wants to sell sell sell the one thing he does.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P_7LMI2G74M)

The homeowner would be far better off having someone honest find/identify his actual problem (s)!

In this case, it’s possible the homeowner gets water in because of openings/gaps in-around that basement window or maybe there’s crevices just under the basement window ledge. Or it’s possible the homeowner has 1 or 2 leaky deteriorated rod holes, did ya bother to look? lolol And sure, maybe there’s a vertical crack in foundation wall, if you remove some drywall/paneling it’ll help one determine/identify the homeowners actual problem!

Exxxxxxxxxxample video----- homeowner was, ‘experiencing water in basement’, right? lol
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ZtJBxOa8iU)
Explain to homeowner ALL the possibilities, one here was just like in Frenchie drain’s video above…possible deteriorated leaky rod hole (s)!!
Sure enough, bingo… so the cost to replace some drywall plus $40 for the rod hole, C’mon. And for this homeowner there will be no hoping and praying as there will be in video above because frenchie fryyyyy drain guy and that homeowner have to hope the problem isn’t openings around that window and hope the stupid cheap drain tile diverts enough water away IF the problem is a crack in F wall or deteriorated rod holes, ya FOLLA?

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(Paul Lesieur, CMI) #2

Hello John,first off I always enjoy your posts. Your skill, humor and concern are much appreciated.

My sister calls and say she has water in the basement. Cracks in the block is where its coming in. I will take a look at the problems, be with her when the basement company shows up and help her make an informed decision.

I am of the opinion this problem should be handled from the outside with a drain system and sump pump as the last resort. Your You Tube videos are being shown to my sister to help convince her of the difference between waterproofing and water removal.

Keep up the good work my Bro!

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(john bubber) #3

Thank you for the kind words Paul, sorry to read about your Sis’s problems.

Did she say the water, the cracks were mostly confined to one area, one wall?

Good man looking out for her, good idea as you know lol to be there when 1 or more come by to give her an estimate, hopefully an honest exterior waterproofing estimate.

If she only gets water in, say along approx. 15’ or say, half the wall then that’s all she needs to have done right now. Sometimes there is a long horizontal crack (see 2nd video below) on the exterior of block wall and so “if” there is then obviously it’s best to have the entire wall waterproofed now. But again, fairly often there is just 1 or 2 vertical cracks on the exterior and no-horizontal crack. Either way, 1/2 wall or entire… should cost less than having a partial interior system installed or ALOT less than having a full perimeter system installed. I add that because many get talked into a full system when they only get water in one or two areas, scam business as you know.

Two short videos, same house in St Clair Shores MI, homeowner first had an interior system installed, still leaked… the partial interior system cost more than the partial exterior waterproofing… hmmmmm lol
Inside-- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=owwskmlN388)

Outside-- see the vertical corner crack, horizontal crack… neither visible when one looks at the inside of the block wall, many homeowners get ripped off on this-point/fact alone https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FK6PW6AyHig)

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(john bubber) #4

for some others (not you Paul) who might wonder about hand digging these out, eh, this job was 24’ long by 6’ deep, was dug out with… digging shovels, all was dug out in 2 1/2 hours, then the wall is waterproofed, not damproofed, then it’s backfilled with 99% gravel, entire job done in approx. 7 1/2 hours, one day, that’s a normal job 'n time it takes.

when we did this job I was 58 yrs old so, if my old ugly butt can dig 8’ long by 6’ deep while couple other guys dig the other footage then most others can too, mind over matter eh.

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(Marcel R. Cyr, CMI) #5

Still at it huh buddy? Keep up the good work and watch out for cave ins. :slight_smile:

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(john bubber) #6

lol roger that Mr. C! Hope you are doing well man.

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(Joseph DePiero) #7

In most cases the exterior correction is less expensive than the interior method and the proper correction in my opinion.
John is correct, the digging is not that difficult. It allows you to properly waterproof, correct the issues of cracks, broken or clogged drain tile etc.
In my area there was a builder in the 1980’s that used flexible corrugated pipe for the footer drains with no gravel back-fill ,only dirt. When ever I inspect in this development and I see water/moisture problems, this was always the cause of the defect. Any that had the interior system of correction still had problems.
I have visited a few that were in the process of being dug that previously I inspected and recommended “further evaluation by an exterior water proofing professional”. The footer drain pipe was completely packed tight with silt/dirt.

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