Originally Posted By: bsmith This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
I did an inspection the other evening. The owner of the home had way too many pets (9 dogs, several cats, 3 parrots). 7 of the dogs were kept in the garage and were not housebroken.
My clients are interested in the house but were concerned (rightly so) about the unbelievable stench caused by these dogs. I’m sure that the waste from these dogs has been soaking into the unfinished concrete floor for quite some time. I know this is beyond the scope of a normal HI, but does anyone have any suggestions for “de-stinkification” of the garage?
Originally Posted By: jburkeson This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Hi Bill,
First I would clean & disinfect most likely using a 50/50 mix of bleach & water, then power-wash, lastly I would use an Ozone Generator for a few days. That should do it.
-- Joseph Burkeson, RPI (Hooperette)
?Anyone who has proclaimed violence his method inexorably must choose lying as his principle.?
~ Aleksandr Solzhenitsyn
Originally Posted By: rcooke This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
jburkeson wrote:
Hi Bill,
First I would clean & disinfect most likely using a 50/50 mix of bleach & water, then power-wash, lastly I would use an Ozone Generator for a few days. That should do it.
There has been a discussion on this BB about Ozone generators.
I would recommend that it is read before decisions are made on using one .
I believe it was Caoimh?n P. Connell, Industrial Forensic Hygenist who posted the information
Originally Posted By: John Bowman This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
bsmith wrote:
Muratic acid in a 10% solution?
The brand that I use is "TRANSCHEM Muriatic Acid"
Directions:
USE ONLY WITH ADEQUATE VENTILATION - WEAR PROTECTIVE CLOTHING: RUBBER GLOVES AND PLASTIC SAFETY GLASSES ARE RECOMMENDED.
Remove cap and carefully cut away seal. Use a plastic container for mixing. Start with a high dilution (such as one part acid to 20 parts water). Always pour acid slowly into water and avoin spashing. Gradually strengthen solution if necessary. If acid reacts by bubbling when applied, solution is strong enough. Flush thoroughly with water immediately after cleaning - usually 1 to 2 minutes. Repeat if necessary.
PS. Muratic Acid is excellent for adjusting PH levels in swimming pools also.
Originally Posted By: John Bowman This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Bill,
Your welcome.
Truth be known, Muratic Acid at one time was only sold to Contractors, masons, etc. Joe Homeowner could not buy it. But now they sell it at any hardware store (in my area) for about $3.00 per gallon to anyone. The muratic acid being sold over the counter is a much weaker by-product of the original stuff. Chlorine is just as harmful as this stuff. Still use extreme caution - one splash in the eye and well the rest is left up to your imagination - just like chlorine.
Other fixes may be "Kitty litter", Oil smell clean-up granuales, a good concrete deck painting, etc.
Originally Posted By: sbyrnes This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
I’ve done restoration work and some of these ideas are pretty good ones. The best thing you can do is suggest a professional cleaning company that specializes in this area. After doing that to CYA, you may suggest the bleach solution, but 50% seems a lot, 20% should do you, and if it is an exposed concrete floor you might also suggest sealing the concrete with a good Kilz to help encapsulate the odor. Ozone machines are designed to pull odor out of the air as they break down the carbon molecules that most odors come from. A commercial grade machine can also be very dangerous and should not be used in an occupied home. The machine needs to be run in a vacant house and after it is turned off, the house needs to be ventilated for a minimum on 24 hours. This, of course, is just my opinion.
– All Corners Home Inspections, Inc
Serving Pasco, Hernando, N. Pinellas & N. Hillsborough counties
Originally Posted By: bsmith This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Quote:
Give them a clothes pin for the nose. Put your business name on it.
Never pass up a chance to market! Hey, my name would be right under their noses!!
Quote:
Note the Conditions and Odors as part of your report.
Duly noted. The ammonia smell was overpowering. As I was reviewing the report with them after the inspection I mentioned the condition. The wife gave me a classic "No SH*T Sherlock!!" look. I mentioned it in the narrative anyway.
Thanks for all the replies.
-- Bill Smith
www.SmithHomeInspection.com
"The difference between stupidity and genius is that genius has its limits." A. Einstien
Originally Posted By: jrooney This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Acids and bleach in sufficient strength and volume to clean also can contribute to some other problems due to contaminating the ground. Avery good product line I use is 1st Envirosafety inc out o Florida. The industrial strength cleaner really does what it says with no residual contamination. you can find more on them at www.1stenvirosafety.com I think? i’ve cleaned old oil stained concrete and it not only cleans, but the concrete looks like it was never oiled at all. Here in Cal. we have some pretty strict rules and nosy neighbors. I learned the hard way. (The hygenists here say NEVER use bleach). The stuff is pretty inexpensive also and an be diluted to be used for different purposes. Hope it works out for you. Jim Rooney
