What do you report if there is no step flashing installed on a rake wall when it is a second layer of roof shingles?
If I can not see it I write it up as Suspect no flashing on Roof wall . Further evaluation by qualified person .
Are two layers of shingles allowed in your area? It is not in many. Also as Roy stated, if I (you) can’t see it, report it. Also, I would call out the shingles against the wood siding anyhow.
Are you sure it isn’t behind the siding? Did you raise the shingles at the gutter?
No kickout .
There is definitely no step flashing at this covering. So I’m writing it up as no step flashing. However, what if there is step flashing installed at the first layer? Would this not be good, and is this what the installer was thinking so as not to remove the siding?
Oh, and good catch Bob with the missing kick out flashing.
Two layers are allowed here. Up to about a year ago, you could have installed 3 layers, believe it or not.
In my area, if there is flashing at the first layer, none is installed at the second layer.
I believe it. It was allowed here for a long time also.
I can’t see why it would be necessary.
Do they trim the shingles back away from the siding?
Yes. By condition of shakes, and if no visible damage inside, I’ll bet there is flashing installed with 1st layer. So there is no need to remove it and replace when 2nd layer was installed.
You should be able to see metal flashing at siding/shingle joint.
If the siding is in contact with the shingles, it will also wick moisture causing damage, rot. I recommend siding be cut back so as to provide a gap. Like here
Very nice thanks Linas
I believe I obtained this verbiage from Marcel.
The roof to wall step flashing cannot be verified for proper installation nor its existence due to the wall siding having been installed tight on to the shingle surface.
It is a standard of practice to leave the siding up from the shingle surface 2” to a min. of 1”. This is needed to prevent water on the roof from being wicked up into the siding material.
If vinyl sided add …Since wicking is not a problem with vinyl siding, the gap should still exist to allow future removal or replacement of the shingle roof surface. It also allows to see the step flashing and monitor any damage to it, should any leakage occur in that roof to wall juncture.
What is kickout flashing? Is it same as step flashing and counter flashing?
Here is one type of kickout flashing, diverts water away from structure.
Oh, I thought kickout flashing was same as base and counter flashing together. So what is the spec. for kickout and what material is typically used?
What about plumbing vent pipes, metal chimneys and the sort that the 2nd layer of shingles overlays the boots or flashings? In most cases the penetration is also sealed with flashing cement. Would you consider this a similar situation and similar reporting comment?
As far as flashing goes, the new roof should have new flashing at edges and penetrations unless the old flashing is in good enough condition to re-use.
The new shingles should have step-flashing installed at the sidewalls, which should have the siding cut back from the shingle surface a minimum of 1 1/2 inches. Step-flashing installed at the underlying layer is better than nothing (if it’s not corroded through), but it’s not right.
Correct installation has to do with the manufacturer’s recommendations, not what common practice is in an area. Given that most manufacturer’s warranties will be voided by installing their products over existing layers, that one kind of goes out the window immediately.
If you can’t visually confirm that flashing is installed in a manner that prevent moisture intrusion, then you need to write it up, including missing kickout.