storm shutters docs

I have some storm panels stamped as follows:



Would someone be able to point me in the correct direction of the applicable paperwork that went with these panels. I’m assuming there is an NOA as well as the #9808 report.

Thank you in advance…

Just take the picture of the stamp and put it in your report.

It has worked for me 1000’s of times at least. have stamp no paperwork needed.

What areas do you cover and how long have you been an inspector?

Hi Micheal, Thanks very much for your answer. I hope I haven’t overstepped the bounds of this forum. I’m not a home inspector but a home owner trying got get my home ‘wind mitigated’. Its a very old home and I’ve done a ton of permits on it. These panels were in the garage when I bought the home but the tracks weren’t on the house. Im assuming they were removed when the house was re-stuccoed at some point, but I want to get them up and lower my insurance. I want to do it right so wanted the NOA to check the spacing from the glass, fixture requirements etc. I actually think i’ve found the noa now. I just checked your website. You may be interested to know my house is a 1924 stucco over wirelath on Dade county pine wood frame. The stucco is over an inch thick. My plan is to use the Bertha concrete anchors and machine screws on a 12 inch spacing. Standard header and F type track. Does that sound compliant?

No, the fasteners have to be embedded into the framing members, usually a minimum of 1.75" (cladding not included). You can’t use just the stucco to secure any opening protection device.

AAE stands for American Aluminum Enterprises and was my grandfather’s company. It has been out of business for over 15 years and there’s a pretty good chance the NOA for those panels is expired. I’m not sure who owns the company now but the name changed to WeatherGuard around the 2000’s, it might be out of business completely. Check the Miami-Dade product approval website starting around 2001 under that name, if the NOA was never updated you are SOL.

If it’s expired, it’s a moot point and will not count for anything…

I would contact the manufacturer, except, it appears they are no longer in business.

I applaud you for trying to get the documentation that some so-called professionals wouldn’t even bother with.

You should be OK with the stamp. As Bradley stated, the anchor points are required to be in the studs. The good news is that your home being built when it was, more than likely has 12 inch on center 2 x 6 wall studs.

Once the tracks are installed, you should have no problem getting the credit, as long as ALL openings are protected.

Awesome I appreciate all the advice, that’s for sure. I’m temped to use screws now instead of anchors and machine screws. My stucco is extremely hard (requires a hammer drill to get through) and is over 1 inch thick then we get to the stud. My assumption is I’ll drill a small hole thru the stucco and then screw in the screw thru the stucco and into the wood. Do you agree and what kind of screws would you recommend. The NOA calls out 1/4 wood lag screw or 3/16 Phillips head standard wood screws. Does that make sense?

Oh but you do agree with what I said but then I’m a so called professional. I give the info needed nothing more. Work smart not harder. Their is NO BENEFIT to providing more info than necessary on insurance inspections.

Who said I was talking about you?

Guilt is a heavy cross to bear I guess. :wink:

To other inspectors, taking five minutes to help a potential client, or even someone who just needs help, goes along way to the long term goal.

H header and bottom studded track mounted with wood lags is your best option over drainage assemblies, also the best for the least possibility for leaking if sealed properly. Figure 1 3/4" embedment into the framing and add another inch minimum for the plaster depending on thickness…

But remember, like I said, the NOA for those panels is most likely expired making them worthless…

Yeah that is why I was FIRST to give solid perfect advice.

Never try to bull**** a bull****ter we ALL know who you were talking to.

If it was not me it MUST have been Brad or Robert but hmmmmmmmm their comments would not likely draw your comments based on what they said.

Sorry your highness, but I was canoeing around the lake with my son and didn’t feel the matter was that important to comment on, at the time.

I did take the time to try and research the document as well as the manufacturer. Did you?

Use Panelmate fasteners, flush or exposed stud.

Do not use female or male panelmates, there is also a good chance these types of anchors are not listed as approve on the panel NOA depending on how early it is dated. Accordions were first installed in Dade County with pop-pins…these are no longer approved.

Install the system with H header and lower track as listed on the approval…that is what most designs in those days were approved for.