the wire that is on Bryce’s house is one hell of a lot tougher then the 1.75 they are pushing out the door by the mfgrs. marked as 2.5
and they are all to cheap to use 3.4
Funny, but it’s ASTM C1032, IBC 2411.1 and IRC R702.2 certified chicken wire.
http://www.heicowiregroup.com/files/532120808ESR-2317-2012.pdf
Chill out, 20 gauge chicken wire is OK.
You loose credibility calling out a problem that’s not a problem.
See:
http://obviously.com/temp/StuccoPrepDetail/Davis_Pre_Furred_Stucco_Netting.jpg
It is still flat tight against the paper. But it’s not the wrong wire.
Why would you choose chicken wire instead of expanded metal self furring wire lath?
WHY???
There is NO WAY it could be superior.
To be far Mr. Nesbit.
You are on the wrong message board.
- Do you know its 20ga. and galvanized?
I used metal lath. Diamond back.
Please sir I am sorry but that application is ALL WRONG.
The window treatments wrong. The weakest point in a wall system.
Flashing and seal EIFS 101.
Here is a treatment I used. Many moons ago.
All the best.
Mike,
when you have been hunting ever try to kick your way through an old chickenwire fence that has been there for so many years?
The biggest problems are the moisture barriers, the saw cut patch joints,and lack of proper flashing. That were probably installed over vertical mulch aka OSB. The house will rot out faster in these places due to the inferior substrate, the original house was made with REAL old growth wood.
All things are well with vertical mulch until. it gets wet, then swells cracking the stucco.
Just like when cmu in florida telegraph the cracks through stucco, due to lack of moisture barrier and any kind of metal to hold it in place.
imo
Guys: The GC is saying you’re all off base with the Chicken Wire rant.
This is stucco netting, not the same stuff as chicken wire:
http://obviously.com/temp/StuccoPrepDetail/Davis_Pre_Furred_Stucco_Netting.jpg
When the ICC certifies it as stucco wire, it’s stucco wire and clearly acceptable:
http://www.heicowiregroup.com/files/532120808ESR-2317-2012.pdf
All your correct observations on this job are getting lost, because the GC points to the chicken wire comments and says ‘those guys are not builders and don’t know what they are talking about’.
This applies to inspectors as much as anything else: when you call something a problem that’s not a problem, you loose credibility. Your other correct observations get diminished. I don’t need to have any industry certification to point that out.
(Note the 1950 stucco wire in one picture: now that’s chicken wire. I even found feathers, a drumstick and some chicken lips 
We are not all on that rant!
The stuccomesh is the least of the underlying problems!
But the rest that is in. Plain sight is overlooked!
chicken lips
Must also be a California thing.
Here they have peckers!
Bills
Beaks
but no lips
Yes, I’m on the wrong board.
But also yes, I’m totally sure it is 20ga galvanized. Check the photo and the test report certifying it to IRC, UBC and ASTM standards:
http://obviously.com/temp/StuccoPrepDetail/Davis_Pre_Furred_Stucco_Netting.jpg
I learned a lot however. For example this cool stucco furring nail that has caulk inside. At the last hammer blow it breaks the chamber and out squirts caulk. Rather cool:
http://www.fastenseal.com/images/top_nail.png
But for the skeptics in the crowd here’s more to hate. Note the plywood:
http://obviously.com/temp/StuccoPrepDetail/DSC_9405.JPG
Thanks for the advice all, but unfortunately I was not able to use it, because of the chicken wire comments. The baby went out with the bathwater 
Hopefully some of you guys learned that not all chicken wire is created equal. And I mean that in a nice way: everyone has something to learn in inspection land (myself more than most of you).
The wall is getting stripped. Here’s my Stucco Prep 101 to the GC:
Installation is to follow ASTM C1063, and proceed as highlighted below:
- Existing stucco to be removed 6" around each corner, to within 6" of the existing parapet, and to grade.
- Fasten any loose siding boards prior to continuing.
- Add parapet flashing, as far as practical under the existing paper.
- All flashing and paper must lap, in the manner of shingles.
- Use two layers of Grade D building paper, lapped vertically and staggered horizontally.
- Lath must be furred out 1/4" from the wall:
-
- Self-furred woven lath must be used dimple side toward wall. Staples must be in dimples vertically, and every 16" horizontally.
-
- Flat lath must be secured with FastenSeal nails, every 7" or better vertically, every 16" horizonally.
-
- Diamond lathe must be self-furred with dimples to the wall, with each dimple filled with a FastenSeal screw.
- Most fasteners must embed 3/4" into the existing studs. Snap a chalk line if needed.
- Lath & paper must butt to window. No lath or paper is to foul the stucco mold, though it can overlap the plywood furring.
- Bare wood directly touching stucco must be primed with at least two layers of exterior grade primer.
- At corners, use pre-made corner mesh.
- At the seam to old stucco, roughen the edges, and apply concrete bonding agent (on this job old wire is rotten).
- Paper must extend to fully down to the weep screed detail, depending on wall section.
- Weep screed need not extend around corners, instead match existing detail.
I’m told the lack of a head flashing over the windows is a standard detail, and I don’t know enough to counter that.
**Thanks for the advice all, but unfortunately I was not able to use it, **because of the chicken wire comments. The baby went out with the bathwater.
Why Bryce? PS: Several whys in the why;)
The in bold print says it all.
All the best Bryce.
Speculation and doubt that will be transferred mouth to ear.
Yep.
For those that care, here is how it turned out:
The wall has been stripped:
http://obviously.com/temp/StuccoPrepDetail/DSC_9414.JPG
The prep the second time around is better:
http://obviously.com/temp/StuccoPrepDetail/DSC_9417.JPG
And this time the ‘chicken wire’ comes with purple paint to highlight the furring.
Here is an expression you may remember.
“The baby was thrown out with the bath water”.
On the wrong board Mr. Nesbitt.
I will not say a word but all the best with the same contractor.
Robert,
the man has and is learning as we speak and obviously is following some of the constructive directives offered by others
if you have nothing factual, constructive or in the least bit helpful maybe it’s you who is on the wrong board
fyi: as others have said the stucco netting is approved
I have not been offensive Mr. Adair AND HAVE BEEN VERY CONSTRUCTIVE.
There is nothing wrong with his speech in my opinion.
Is he leaning yes.
I applaud a man that wishes to learn as I do my freedom of speech as in one of your most precious of amendments.
Now if you where constructing, were would you go Mr. Adair?
A builders board or a home inspectors board.
If you wanted to make a living seeing home inspectors do, do you think he should hire a home inspector to do over-sight work?
I see he can afford to build.
Enough said.
Thank you.
the Home ( builders )
the ( craftsman ) and lack of
the ( codes inspectors ) and lack of
the ( material mfgrs ) It is all about their individual products and bottom line
have all failed to give the people a product that will last
Just were the HECK is a person to turn to for HONESTY about their biggest lifetime investment???
If they can not trust HOME\PROPERTY inspectors to be honest and give them advice about what is going on, based on their knowledge and experience.
just where do they have left to turn?
Nicely said Carl. :)
Bryce
the head flashing is great but
the reason they have the lip on the front is to keep the water from running back into the windows so would it not be nice to have the same protection on the ends?
although that is not how a lot would do it.
either down for the drip or up fpr an end dam
If I wanted to know if a builder was doing it right… I’d go to an inspector board. Checks and balances and all.