One of my home inspector friends sent me these pictures of a sump pump. He didnt see a float. Can you guys help him out?
The float is internal.
Normally two plugs and you can unplug the first one then test with the second.
If that is one plug , it is an older model and you would need to fill it with water to test unless someone else knows a trick.
I always recommend a battery backup.
If you look at my image rotate on your submission,I croped it up and can read Magnetically Activated (Switch)
That should close the issue.
Doesn’t anybody read the names and numbers on items anymore? It almost took 20 seconds to do a google search. :roll:
http://www.libertypumps.com/Products/Category/SubCategory/Product/?p=4&s=4&c=14
Are you all set now, Eric?
Alright guys my friend pourd in 5 gallons of water and the pump kicked on drained out most of the water then alot of the water flowed back into the pit just under the point to where the pump would kick on. I was thinking sump pumps had a backflow preventer?
Should have a one-way valve in the drain pipe. Some pumps have this feature in the pump itself, but sounds like this one needs the valve.
Good call Gary I bet you its missing the check valve. Who would he refer this to a plumber?
A licensed plumber is not required in most jurisdictions, since you are installing the check valve on a line that is not part of the DWV system.
Eric,
Most of the time, when you see water pour back in the sump pit after it’s been discharged, it’s simply a high water table under the slab. Most home owners do not know what height to set their pumps at.
Simply make sure that the sump hose has a backflow preventer then set the pump at a desired height…if water is getting pumped out and then water is continuously filling the sump pit after a discharge, then the pump must be raised to prevent a continuous sump operation.
They call them check valves around here.
Even if it wasn’t required ,I would suggest a Licensed Plumber so he could have the experience to look over the system.