Do the state requirements that you confirm proper fastening include confirming proper fastening for each type, brand and model of shingle? Because man! They vary a lot!
That’s what it would seem to indicate wouldn’t it?:
And the Proposed Commentary for that section says:
Just curious, what kind of differences you are seeing between brands/models. I’ve been pretty used to seeing the following items being pretty consistent.
- No exposed heads
- Don’t nail above the glue strip
- Don’t nail in the glue strip
- Space nails evenly
- Don’t nail too close or too far from the edge
- 4 nails / strip minimum / 6 nails in high wind
- Ultra-steep pitch nailing don’t worry about cause you cant get on it anyway
- Nails should penetrate underside of sheathing at least 1/8th inch (I think)
- Nails should have heads 3/8 in diameter (I think), and be corrosion resistant
- Don’t nail at an angle
- Don’t drive nail heads into the shingle
- Don’t leave the nail sticking up
- Staples I always call as inferior / defect
I haven’t tried to make adjustments by manufacturer or model. I don’t even usually try to figure out who’s shingles are on the roof.
What other nailing characteristics should we be checking (for those of us in Texas who are required to do so).
BTW: On most on the roofs I’ve done since the new SOP I couldn’t get the tabs to lift without risk of tearing them, even using a scraper. So the majority are disclaimed. Most of the others get listed as defective, because there are always some fasteners that are improper and the SOP doesn’t say that any number / percentage being improper is OK.
I’m pretty much the same except I don’t call out staples as a defect.
You can slice the adhesive strip with a knife, but you should re-seal by hand.
Owens-Corning, for one, doesn’t consider 16 ga, 15/16" crown width, corrosion resistant staples as a defect. They recommend nails but allow staples. Reference Owens-Corning Prominence/Supreme/Classic 3-tab shingle Installation Instructions.