Tile Roof Issues

Today’s tile roof had a couple of things I have not seen before.

The home was built in 2006.

(Photo #2 & #3) are the sides of the front entry. The tiles do not go all the way to the wall leaving underlayment is exposed. Also notice the exposed wood batt.

The tiles are secured onto wood batts with one fastener. The 2006 IRC says in areas with wind speeds over 100 MPH the tiles shall be installed in accordance with the manufacturer’s installation instructions.

The tiles have two pre-drilled holes in them and are secured with only one fastener. I cant find any manufacture installation instructions that talks about fastener requirements in area with wind speeds over 100 MPH.

Should the tiles have two fasteners in each tile? I also found numerous tiles that were lacking fasteners all together.

Photo #1, are exposed fasteners about three rows up from one of the eaves.

Any input would be much appreciated, thanks in advance.

Thanks in advance for your help.

tile -1.JPG

tile -1.JPG

tile-2.JPG

tile photo.JPG

OOPS,

The photos I tried to download exceeded capacity. Let me figure out how to attach the photos.

Mathew,

Here is about everything you need to know regarding the installation of Tile Roofs in Florida.

Hope this helps.HOW SLATE ROOFS ARE SECURED.doc (59 KB) Always at least 2 nails.

From the concrete tile manufacturers I have used in the past, the “Minimum” headlap on what I presume to be a 17" tall tile is 3". From you photo showing the exposed screws, they obviously did not meet that minimum requirement of coverage.

I have seen various underlayments which were intended to remain exposed in dead valley areas, such as the flat roofing material called “Peal & Stick” or even some polyester reinforced membranes with a surface applied elastomeric coating to prevent degradation. Since I can read the name of the product, it appears to not have been coated with an elastomeric coating, so I hope that it is a membrane rated for UV exposure.

As far a fastener requirements, it seems as if they are at least “screwed” in but you would have to verify with the particular manufacturer to validate their requirements.

There is a concrete tile manufacturer in Lakeland, FL by the product brand name of either Lifetime Roof Tile or it may be Life Tile. It has been about 14 years since I had the need to order from them.

The fasteners should be of sufficient lemgth to “penetrate” the roof deck sheathing, and not only the batten board strips.

The ampunt of tiles requring fastening will be dependant on the “Nailing Specification” chart for the wind conditions in your area. One per tile should be sufficient, but I can not comment accurately about that for your area.

Ed

Mathew,

You could call this guy, I know he is ICC certified, and one hell of a great guy…:smiley:

And I bet he knows everything necessary for tile installation in Florida…:smiley:

Thanks guys for the info and links. Very helpful.

Thanks again :slight_smile:

Mark,

Your article refers to Slate tiles. These are concrete tiles.

Ed,

That peel and stick underlayment cannot be left open to UV rays. I think 90 days is the maximum allowable. They should have used modified there or sealed this area.

I do believe that one nail can be used on these tiles for this wind rating, but they cannnot be exposed as in Picture #1.

Now, let me guess, the seller said the city approved this installation.

William,

There are several roof membranes intended for exposed flat roofing applications. GAF produces one and another company that used to be around was Hypsam or Hyload. It has been a few years since I even entertained the idea of using those products. They were not time tested back then and obviously have not become very popular.

I believe that you are referring to the “Underlayments” such as Grace Ice and Water Shield. For that product and similar knock offs, the exposure would be very limited as you stated.

Ed

Look at closely at pic 3. You can see the underlayment has an air pocket and is not secured properly. Both of these valleys have guters that drain directly into them from the front entry roof above. I would think that the areas being subjected to concentrated water run off would be more succeptible to leaking and pre-mature wear.

Anyways thanks guys for the feedback.