To vent or not to vent that is the ????

Is the fact that it is a gas dryer make this right???
It just does not look good.




The gas meter also has a vent which can become clogged in this situation.

I have been trying to find a recommendation for distance of vent to grade but no luck yet. Here is a great source of information regarding Dryer venting.
Can’t say this install is good. Lint and moisture over a meter… :roll:

Has anyone ever seen this before? Dryer vents into a box and box was filled with water.


Yes, we call it a “wet box”.

Someone had the concept where the moisture and heat should be used in the house instead of leaving the building.

Well I can tell you a couple of major issues with this concept.

  1. It is a growing medium for bacteria and mold, Do you have allergies?
    How often do you change water?

  2. Your still pushing CO into the unit if it’s a natural gas burning Dryer… DUM just plain dangerous. Not approved by the MFG of the appliance. Check your manual. Follow the mfg guidelines for installation. Most will not honor warranty problems if the appliance is NOT installed correctly.

  3. That flex pipe is a NO NO period. Flamable , since lint build up happens period and that flex pipe bend surely has lint build up . Check your appliance manual for further installation . Most dyer fires are a result of that type of piping… Yes nylon is worse but “foil” will also burn nicely…

Check the

  1. The efficiency is reduced. The concept behind a dryer is air flow. Reduce that and you just waste money on energy bills… :smiley:

I can’t find any codes on clearances from gas meter. I did read clearances of 3’ was required from obstructions and windows of such, but a dryer vent located near meter, I’m still looking, I even have the IRC 2003 book here and can’t find anything yet. Anybody know the code and if we should write this ssituation up or not? Here is another one for you, came across an outdoor storage cabinet build out of wood (very nicely done) due to lack of space being a condo application, they enclosed the gas meter within the cabinet, they did cut a hole big enough to see meter dial plate but the door to it was locked. Is this a safety problem for some reason if the main had to be shut off in an emergency? give me your thoughts, I didn’t want to tell the homeowner what they must do when I’m not sure what is against the law.

As for the height of this meter, it’s fine. As I posted earlier, I’m concerned with the gas vent. If this vent becomes clogged, this will allow excess gas pressure into the house. I have a pic of a clogged gas meter regulator, but it’s referring to ice build-up.

Think of this as LINT build-up.

Gas meters MUST be installed in vented locations. I don’t think a cabinet with a cut-in hole qualifies as a vented location.

good post, thanks for all the great info!


Flexible ducts are allowed within the first 8 feet of the appliance, but they cannot be concealed (in crawl spaces, through walls, etc.). It would be pretty hard to vent a dryer, in my opinion, without using flexible ducts immediately in the area of the dryer. (How would you get behind the unit to attach a rigid metal duct to the base of the dryer???)

Reference: 2003 International Residential Code, M1501.1

The cheap vinyl or aluminum foil is not recommended by most MFG’s. It’s in there installation manuals. BUT;

I think is has to do with the type of flexible duct Joe. If you look at the MFG recommendations most will state smooth hard piping without screws.

Now there is a “new” flexible ducting on the block: “UL2158A” for electric clothes dryers.:wink:

But this is NOT the major issue… It’s the lint and how that gets trapped. Lint is the culprit and flex ducting trapping it and you get:

and this one:


Master of informational links.

Many years ago I learned that restricted air flow would cause problems. I also learned that part of the design of good products installed some type of protection. – High temp - low air flow, etc.

I am looking for a cheep alarm for my HVAC filter at this point – any ideas??

The local AHJ would be the one to talk to about this specific setup with gas meter and dryer vent. Clogging of either is a critical issue.

Was that original construction or an addition to the existing house?

I see many laundry or other add ons that have not been permitted and therefore have many infractions present. The last one I did had a 1 1/4" gap in between the house and laundry slab with 2" in 4’ slope away from the house. all waste ran direct through wall out into the yard without a trap or vent. This was the least of the concerns with this property.

Here’s the link to the info below:

** **

Dryer Venting Guidelines
· All dryer ducting must be a minimum of 4" in diameter. Clean, unobstructed, frictionless ducts encourage air flow efficiency, quickens drying times, adds longevity to clothing’s life and reduces utility bills.
· Flexible transition hose between the dryer and the wall outlet should be either the foil type or the aluminum flexible duct (most preferred). Do not use the plastic or vinyl.
· Concealed ducting must be rigid metal (galvanized or aluminum) duct.
· Duct joints shall be installed so that the male end of the duct points in the direction of the airflow.
· Joints should be secured with metal tape (not duct tape). Do not use rivets or screws in the joints or anywhere else in the duct as these will encourage lint collection.
· Length of concealed rigid metal ducting shall not exceed 25 feet. Deduct 5 feet from the allowable length for every 90 degree elbow and two and a half feet for every 45 degree fitting. These lengths may vary per local codes and dryer manufacturers recommendations.
· Dryer venting shall be independent of any other systems (chimneys or exhaust vents)
· Termination of dryer venting must be to the exterior with a proper hood or roof jack equipped with a backdraft damper. Small orifice metal screening should not be part of the hood or roof jack as this will catch lint and block the opening in a very short time. The hood opening should point down and exhibit 12 inches of clearance between the bottom of the hood and the ground or other obstruction.
· Tip to make it easier to attach Aluminum Flex: Flatten aluminum flex with pipe like dough roller, click here to see image.
· Comparison graphic of the port openings (round, model 425, model 350), click here to see image.
Good Practices
· Actually inspect the termination port of the dryer and the wall or roof jack. Look for birds nest or clogged openings. Most importantly, feel for proper exit velocity of the air leaving the vent and look at or feel the interior walls of the duct.
· If you suspect clogged or partially clogged exhaust ducting, it is likely you need to have them cleaned. Dryer vent cleaning improves the safety and efficiency and depending on the venting circumstances, should be cleaned or inspected every 6-12 months.
· Make sure your flex transition hose is not kinked or crushed. The space behind your dryer should be sufficient as to provide adequate room for the flex transition hose to make its bends with minimal deflection and restrictions.
· Dryer vent cleaning is a very real commercial trade and the contracted work is sometimes described as Routine and Problem Cleaning. Routine cleaning is done from the outside by sending an air-propelled “jet-snake” through the vent. It blows air 360 degrees backwards, blasting the lint loose and blowing it outside. The lint is caught in a special bag.
· Problem Cleaning is performed when an individual dryer is not drying clothes fast enough. They disconnect and pull the dryer out, install a large blower on the vent, and blow, brush, vacuum and/or dismantle - whatever it takes to get the vent clean.
· Look in your Yellow Pages under Duct Cleaning or search the Internet.
· The use of the white vinyl flex pipe is all but completely prohibited, both by building departments and appliance manufacturers. Some municipalities allow or do not discourage the foil covered vinyl flex but almost all appliance manufacturers insist on the use of the aluminum flexible pipe. I have created a very useful comparison page. Click here to view it.
· Keep exhaust duct as straight and short as possible. Exhaust systems longer than the manufacturer’s recommendations can extend drying times, affect appliance operation and may encourage lint build-up on pipe lining.

“International Mechanical Code” specifically states on “Section 504.3 Cleanout - Every vertical riser shall be provided with a means of cleanout.” The intent of this code element is to provide an accessible means to remove the lint accumulation that would fall vertically (settle) to a low spot in the vertical run.