Leather gloves? Rubber palm gloves? Full on electrical gloves? If your son or daughter were just starting out in the business, what would you suggest they wear?
Full electric Gloves
will they use them not likely
But they were told lolol
I had a pair in my work truck , we found them to cumbersome .But they were on the truck if something was called for.also carried a rubber mat which we used .
Rubber gloves and leather. I do not touch the panel unless I am wearing my boots.
Typcially the removal of a cover to a residential load center would be Class 0 on the PPE scale. Gloves are optional but if you choose to wear them make sure they fit properly. Also HI’s should NEVER reach into the panel…only observe visually. I suggest a good quality voltage sensor/ticker and tick all scrrews before removing a panel cover and when removing use the cover for what it is intended for…a shield to cover your face as you pull the panel cover away from the panel enclosure.
Merry Christmas Everyone…
And making sure your Client or Agent does not come within 6 feet of you while doing it is always a good practice whenever possible.
good advice worth repeating…
Wayne, what type of rubber mat? I wear a 100% leather gloves and work boots with rubber soles.
According to this electrical site voltage detectors (tic tracers) will not work properly unless the person holding the device is reasonably well grounded, so rubber-soled boots might actually be a problem when testing the dead front.
The rubber mat was about 1/2 Inch thick the company supplied them . I do not remember were or what company made them. It was when i was working in Canada. But again we worked on live equipment all the time.
Hi Kevin
I find that clients actually like to see the defect, especially in the panel when they don’t know what I’m talking about. After warning them to touch absolutely nothing, I let them come closer and point out the defect (usually double tapping) with a wooden chopstick I have in my kit for that purpose. Then I snap a pic.
I snap the pictures and show it to my client. I will never risk my Clients getting injured unless they intentionally come closer.
As a matter of course, I don’t necessarily wear gloves while removing panel covers. I do, however, take care to ensure that I am not in contact with something that will “ground” me.
Laser pointers are inexpensive and work well for identifying components being discussed. Here’s one for less than $3.
Plus a lot better than poking sticks Kenton. :)
Electrical-protective gloves are categorized by the level of voltage protection they provide and whether or not they’re resistant to ozone. Voltage protection is broken down into the following classes:
Class 00 - Maximum use voltage of 500 volts AC.
Class 0 - Maximum use voltage of 1,000 volts AC/proof tested to 5,000 volts AC.
Class 1 - Maximum use voltage of 7,500 volts AC/proof tested to 10,000 volts AC.
Class 2 - Maximum use voltage of 17,000 volts AC/proof tested to 20,000 volts AC.
Class 3 - Maximum use voltage of 26,500 volts AC/proof tested to 30,000 volts AC.
Class 4 - Maximum use voltage of 36,000 volts AC/proof tested to 40,000 volts AC.
If it’s the amperage that is dangerous, why are electrical gloves rated by voltage?
It’s a combination of both. The volts describe how hot the electrons are while the amps describes how many electrons there are.
Get enough of the volts, you are toast. ;)
Because without voltage, you cannot have any amperage.
A table saw that operates on 110 volts runs at 15-20 amps, the same saw at 220 volts can run at 10-12 amps and has more power.
Higher the voltage, the amperage drops because it has more of a punch.
Good idea and more professional looking than a wooden chopstick 