Basement wall stabilization

Originally Posted By: lgerving
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I would like to know if anyone has any information on Grip-Tite Wall Anchoring Systems or any other brands.


I have seen this system a couple of times in the past month and just wondering if there have been any failures with this system.

The last house that I inspected had a concrete block foundation, that was pushed in at several rows along the wall. The rows have separated from each other and moved from 1 inch to 2 inches. These are horizontal and vertical shifts.

It looks to me that any excessive moisture on the exterior of the walls will push at different spots now.

Would appreciate any information or comments on this type of repair.
It appears to be a band aid approach to me.

Lynn W. Gerving

![icon_biggrin.gif](upload://iKNGSw3qcRIEmXySa8gItY6Gczg.gif)


Originally Posted By: aslimack
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Sounds band aid to me.


Adam, A Plus


Originally Posted By: cmccann
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Maybe our residential basement water proofing expert Mr. Anderson could answer this one.



NACHI MAB!

Originally Posted By: Mark Anderson
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icon_smile.gif Mr McCann…Lynn-- IMO…Grip tite is garbage…period.


As always, would be best to see the house/walls that you just inspected. This is what happens when homeowners wait too long to take action or heed advice from the G Haeges of the world ...and sometimes yes, when they dont have the funds.

Would have been better-less costly to fix the problems before it gets outta hand (get a loan) cuz it sounds like this homeowner is very near/at the wall replacement stage. And dont think that a new wall wont begin to bow in either (many do within 6 months)....even when the new wall is built and backfilled correctly. The footing for a wall has more pressure on it (deeper) than the wall, so it can crack and bow as well. And there are times underpinning a footing will fail as well. Things settle and continually move underground--roots will mess things up too.

Over the long haul...the best way to lessen hydrostatic pressure,which is from tons of dirt/clay/roots etc against the outside of the wall and WILL crack/bow/buckle a wall, is to hand dig to footing,haul all dirt away,seal cracks w/hydraulic cement,apply thick (not thin) tar,then apply visqueen over the tar and Backfill with 100% peastone all the way up to within a few inches of grade..top soil rest. Have helped--saved many walls `n homeowners from further problems and costs (replacing the wall And waterproofing new wall). I tell anyone who will listen that if your building a new house...have the walls waterproofed correctly with Thick tar & visqueen and Backfilled along the walls with all peastone...its not going to cost you that much more to have this done when the walls are already dug out/excavated.

Sorry i cant help ya much Lynn.


--
The Real reasons basements leak

Originally Posted By: lgerving
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Thanks for the replies.


I have never seen any of these types of fixes work for very long. The basement walls are pushed in several spots and like I said above, have separated in several area. The added angle iron to the bolted plate indicated to me this was an accident waiting to happen.

The only way I have ever found to fix this type of problem is to replace the failing wall or walls.

Mark, I have read some of your other posted items and agree and disagree. Correct slope and keeping water away from the foundation does go along ways in preventing problems. I agree that the walls need to be water proofed, plastic applied. 1 1/2" foam insulation and then 3/4" clean rock above drain tile has worked for us. We had done this for the past 25 years along with the correct drainage and never had a problem. Backfill is probably one of the biggest causes of basement cracks and failure. Heavy soils and operating heavy equipment to close to the house is another.

Lynn W Gerving
![icon_biggrin.gif](upload://iKNGSw3qcRIEmXySa8gItY6Gczg.gif)


Originally Posted By: lgerving
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Some pictures of the plates and the angle iron under the plates.


The pictures don’t show the correct distance between the wall and the angle irons, but it give an idea of what is going on here. They also show some of the patching that has been done to the walls.



Hope they are sized correctly. If not let me know how to down size them.


![](upload://7ynT9iLzZTpke6b8zHLF76WW57y.jpeg)![](upload://7ynT9iLzZTpke6b8zHLF76WW57y.jpeg)

Lynn W. Gerving



Originally Posted By: lgerving
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http://www.nachi.org/bbsystem/usrimages/b/baement_wall_21.jpeg ]


[ Image: http://www.nachi.org/bbsystem/usrimages/b/basement_wall4.jpg ]


[ Image: http://www.nachi.org/bbsystem/usrimages/b/basement_wall_11.jpeg ]


Originally Posted By: Mark Anderson
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Lynn…thx for the pics and i`ll state its always best to see a situation first hand-/on site. Let me ask you this…do you know if ANY work was done on the outside and if so…what exactly was done? I have to run…and may have missed All of what you said in earlier posts, did they push the wall?



The Real reasons basements leak

Originally Posted By: lgerving
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Mark,


They didn't do anything on the outside except what was called out in their instructions for installation of the rod and plate.

The problem with this whole thing is the very heavy soils and the ground movement in this area. The house was built in 1956 and it is masonry construction. Block and brick walls on the block foundation. The yard slopes toward the house on the sides the walls have failed. One of the problem that I could see was the lack of any rebar in the wall or bond beams on the foundation walls.

This area is known for water problem from under the slab and footing along with the heavy soils. In the 1950's the heavy soil problems were not addressed.

The only way to fix this house is to install a new foundation wall.
No body wants to hear that!!

Thanks for your comments

Lynn W. Gerving
![icon_biggrin.gif](upload://iKNGSw3qcRIEmXySa8gItY6Gczg.gif)


Originally Posted By: cmccann
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Lynn, Anyway you could get rid of the giant pics? The links posted are great shots. Thanks.



NACHI MAB!

Originally Posted By: Mark Anderson
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Lynn…i would have recommened to homeowner to have that wall waterproofed and backfilled correctly from outside to A) stop water from entering B) lessen the hydrostatic pressure against the outside of the wall. I have seen repeatedly where these wall anchoring methods were done on inside or beams put in etc… and then in the near future the wall has bowed,buckled more because…nobody took the pressure off that is…on the Outside eusa_wall.gif …lolol.


Now....only judging from the pics(cant see everything just from pics) this inside crap was not necessary. I`ve seen much much worse with wall movement that what one can make out from the pics and again,judging only from the pics, to me this is not that bad at all and IMO, would Not recommend replacing the wall. A view from afar


--
The Real reasons basements leak

Originally Posted By: jcampbell
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No practical experience with Grip Tite, but I did attend some training with one of their reps… A company Called Thrasher Basement Systems. They carry a 25 year warranty that is transferable. The system seemed to make sense. They do not only install the wall anchoring system but also take measure to relieve the hydrostatic pressure… drainage most typically… www.griptite.com


POC for Thrasher is Tsapp@thrasherbasement.com 1-800-827-0702 out of Nebraska...


--
Jeffrey S. Campbell
http://www.maineshomeinspector.com

Originally Posted By: lgerving
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Thanks for all the comments. My opinion before I put this out for comments was that they didn’t work and were a waste of money.


There maybe some cases where this system might work, however, when you get into clay and movement like this, the foundation should be replaced. This company has done a good job of convincing the unknowing public that this is a “Cure All”.


They even advertise it is approved and recommend by home inspectors.
NOT THIS ONE!!!

I advised my client to make sure what the 25 year warranty actually said [contact a Lawyer if necessary], if they still intend to purchase this property.

we can beat this thing to death for many days, but the bottom line is these types of "fixes" don't usually work.

Lynn W. Gerving
![icon_biggrin.gif](upload://iKNGSw3qcRIEmXySa8gItY6Gczg.gif) ![icon_biggrin.gif](upload://iKNGSw3qcRIEmXySa8gItY6Gczg.gif)


Originally Posted By: Mark Anderson
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agree Lynn…many homeowners gettin BSd outta their money! gl icon_smile.gif



The Real reasons basements leak