CSST bonding opinions

Completed a recent inspection where the CSST was bonded at the end of the line on the drip leg for the boiler.

The propane supply is an above ground tank, CSST is buried until it connects to the regulator and then enters the basement.

Total run from where it enters the basement to where it connects to the boiler is about 35 feet.

The technical bulletin I use calls for the bonding wire to be at the beginning of the line, however the propane supplier disagrees and says at the end is fine.

It’s worth noting that a good portion of the beginning is not accessible and is installed over a sauna. Pictures attached. Looking for opinions. TYIA

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I can’t see the manufacturer in your pics, but what does the MFG of that particular brand say in their documentation?

Edit: The last one I looked up said it could be bonded anywhere in the system. This was contrary to when I last personally installed the stuff and it had to be bonded at a brass fitting. Each MFG has different specifications it seems.

Thanks for the reply Mike
I believe it’s Gastite and their installation instruction are vague and don’t really specify.

All of the manufacturer’s instructions I’ve read say when bonding to the rigid gas piping (as in your photo) it needs to be Before the CSST.

If properly bonded directly to the CSST in can be anywhere in the line.

From Gastite “*The bonding clamp attachment point may be at any location within the gas piping system.”

This bulletin covers all of the requirements.

Same here but evidently it’s changed. I have a call into our state fire marshal’s office and hope to talk to the inspector tomorrow.

Last year I inspected a bed and breakfast and the towns fire chief was there and we talked about CSST bonding and he was pretty adamant that it be prior to or where it enters the building.

We’ll see, I’ll post what I find out.

Interesting. I talked to the inspector for the state fire marshal’ office and either way you look at it it’s vague. Code says at entrance to building or per the mfg. installation instructions. One thing that came up is the length of the boding wire. The longer the length the less effective so the manufacture is required to determine the gauge of the wire depending on length.

Copied from this article. www.nahb.org/en/research

As of the 2012 Edition of the NFPA National Fuel Gas Code (NFGC), the manufacturer bonding requirements align closely with current NFGC code language. The 2011 edition of the National Electrical Code (NEC) now refers to the NFGC for supplemental bonding requirements and does not specifically address bonding of CSST tubing apart from the general requirements for bonding of gas piping. The National Electrical Code and the National Fuel Gas Code both rely on the use of the equipment grounding conductor for gas piping as an acceptable means to provide the bonding for the gas piping systems. Now however, the NFGC (NFPA 54, 2012) has separate bonding requirements for CSST tubing.
Between the intervening period of this revision and the original report, the National Fuel Gas Code (NFPA 54/ANSI Z223.1, 2012) was published with an updated section 7.13.2 that requires electrical bonding of the CSST gas piping system to a metallic pipe or fitting between where the gas service enters the building and the first downstream CSST fitting. A Tentative Interim Amendment (TIA 09-2) was issued after publication to include Table A.5.6 Pipe, Tube, Fittings, and Joints for Natural Gas and Liquefied Petroleum Gas Applications with the note that the CSST “Installation be in accordance with the manufacturer’s installation instructions.”

I’m looking at the 2015 IFGC and 310.1.1 CSST calls for bonding to the service GEC or lightning arrestor grounding electrode.

Kenton, thanks for the reply.
Does it specify if it needs to be at the beginning or can it be anywhere along the line?

Peter… I have been under the impression that the bonding clamp should be on the black iron gas pipe prior to the CSST or on the first brass fitting on the CSST. However in reviewing the Gastite design and installation guide I find that section 4.10 says…….

“Gastite yellow CSST installed inside or attached to a building shall be electrically continuous and direct bonded to the electrical ground system of the structure in which it is installed. The gas piping system shall be considered to be direct-bonded when installed in accordance with the following.”

“A single bond clamp attachment to rigid pipe or rigid component at any point within the gas piping system”

In reading this paragraph I can certainly see why the propane supplier has their opinion.

If you get a solid answer on this one please take the time to post it as I want to ensure that any opinions that I offer my clients are solid.

It sure would be nice if the AHJ would incorporate some standardization such as location of the bond clamp or perhaps labeling so that we could verify proper bonding without having to search the entire house!

Oklahoma requires that the presence of any yellow vinyl coated CSST be referred to a licensed electrical contractor for proper bonding.
Even if I see it has been bonded, I still refer it to Sparky and move on.

It does not really matter at which end the gas line is bonded. The lightening just needs a path to follow to the ground. I post a bullentin about bonding CSST in my report, and let the electrician decide where it should be bonded.

Wow. OK is super specific on this topic.

"the presence of any shade of yellow corrugated stainless steel tubing
(“CSST”) flexible gas piping observed during the inspection in which
the inspector is not required to identify concealed conditions, components not
readily accessible, or any other item excepted from inspection pursuant to

OAC 158:70-1-3. If any shade of yellow CSST flexible gas piping is observed,
the home inspector shall notify the client, in writing, as follows: “Manufacturers
believe the product is safer if properly bonded and grounded as required by the
manufacturer’s installation instructions. Proper bonding and grounding of the
product can only be determined by a licensed electrical contractor.”"

Follow up:

I didn’t get a definitive answer and it appears the manufacture’s installation is OK, *Legally, *so if encountered make sure you get the MFG of the product and look at what they require.

Note: We inspect quite a few older homes with oil tanks and the suppliers are getting more strict on what they put oil in so we have a couple of canned statements about making sure the oil tank is structurally sound. I guess I’ll create a canned statement regarding proper bonding of CSST.

Hey Peter, the oil dealers in the southern part of the state are very aggressive in declaring oil tanks need to be replaced if there is any sign of rust or evidence of a leak. I can’t really blame them as I think their insurance companies are pushing that all old tanks get replaced. I have a canned comment about oil tanks to protect myself as well as a little speech I make about oil tanks to the client. I used to get some push back from agents when I called out a tank but not so much any more as the agents are now becoming aware of the oil companies attitude towards older tanks.

I think it comes from the oil delivery companies insurance provider. I tell my clients that most tank failures occur when it’s being filled, therefore, the liability falls on the delivery company.

We try to date every tank via the serial tag but you know how that goes.

Observe It … Report It AND Refer it to licensed electrical contractor for Service and THEN move on.

Thanks for the “THEN move on” reply.
Ive been inspecting since 1992 and would like to know the answer to the question I posted.
I prefer to be an educated inspector rather than one who “moves on”

There are always DIFFERENT ways to do something … Different jurisdictions; different manufacturers; different contractors; some states have VERY specific instructions for LICENSED inspectors, such as REPORT IT & REFER IT TO A LICENSED ELECTRICAL CONTRACTOR to evaluate & repair.

MANY inspectors I know who think they NEED to know how a technical repair is done end up doing something stupid to try and exhibit their superior knowledge AND end up getting hosed because they tell a buyer, seller , etc HOW its supposed to be done AND that ain’t the way the EXPERT does it OR because then the buyer / seller tries to do it and screws it up … So what I said above.

I’ve been inspecting since 1976 … See it / Report it / Refer it / Move on.