…anything like this? Nope!
1:25 …‘spalling, crumbling, salts…eventually get to rebar’ etc
Short video, see wall? See rebar? “water does a lot of damage”
Yes it does, and NO interior basement system and 99 sump pumps STOPS further water from entering, further problems
Some interior basement system companies will install their system and attach Brightwall paneling etc against basement wall
–Brightwall, drainage system :55 ‘any water passing through the wall through wall cracks will run behind the panel’…
RIGHT!!! You do not stop further water from entering cracks etc and so these interior systems will never stop/prevent wall deterioration, duh!!!
‘Basement Wall Waterproofing using Brightwall’ ??? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2bNQX8MSQY
They think it’s ok to continue to allow water to enter, pass through cracks etc and divert the water!@#$%!
Ummm, can HI’s figure out the valid POINTS?
No?
Yeah? Well if so, why do so many HI’s recommend interior basement systems/companies to unknowing homeowners!! Some right here at Nachi, sheeesh man.
Last year I bought a book called 5 Steps to a dry basement by Ronald Gay.
Since reading this book I would never recommend an interior basement system, I would recommend repair from the exterior but as you know most people will be satisfied with pumping the water out rather than keeping the water out.
I encourage anyone interested in knowing more about keeping basements dry to read this book.
There was a short time we conversed but since reading his book and disagreeing with quite a bit of it, we haven’t talked since.
He seems like a good dude. A FORMER home inspector.
Have touched upon his book/ways several times including here…
But again, there are many in this business who seem nice when they show up at your house and bs you and try and sell you an interior system.
His book…
Would think some Nachi members and others, and myself, agree with him on SOME things, such as NEVER recommending 'aftermarket/interior basement systems
However, I do not see him recommend, show, in his book or website what is shown here, photos of many exterior cracks etc, don’t see him recommending to waterproof/exterior, and that’s sad man.
Appears he will attempt to DIVERT enough water on the outside, to try and keep basements dry. Yep. And some know w t f Bubba thinks of that.
Jesus, i mean, watch the 2 short videos posted in 1st link, spalling etc… an HI or former HI is NOT going to waterproof anything like THAT on the outside and instead, extend downspouts and raise and slope the grade?
His website claims NO ONE has more skill or EXPERIENCE in finding and correcting overlooked defects at a house’s exterior… realllllllly???
Reallllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllly? Bet, bet, bet, bet, bet. loool
Say again, seems his intentions are good but lacking in expertise in actually FINDING AND THEN FIXING whatever the true, actual problem(s) is!!!
Another good example of Mr G’s wanting to play water diverting games (fine, try all ya’s like, sheesh) and NOT truly ‘finding/identifying’ the actual existing defect which would lead anyone w/any common sense to the LONE means of repairing and waterproofing the problem…
inside basement, does anyone see a crack in the block wall??? http://picasaweb.google.com/101049034584960315932/BasementWaterproofing89#6068342941000468322
Its cool Paul, you wanna recommend a book, sure, your choice sir, not me.
Why? Because he doesn’t REALLY find/locate the homeowners actual problem nor fix it.
Let me ask you Mr Paul, you would/have recommended his book to peeps, pretty much a water diverting book, but NOT me, not this or my other main thread… why? And do you believe his claim that NO ONE has more skill and experience on this subject than him?
Ron and his book, talks about trying to keep water away, raise and slope the grade etc, right?
First 28 photos (how many actual leaky basement photos do some need to see)… the GRADE was raised about 20", up against unprotected bricks and joints (usual dumb sht).Home was SOLD, buyers were told leaky basement in this area was ‘fixed’… i ask, was it? http://picasaweb.google.com/101049034584960315932/BasementWaterproofing23
Why did the buyers get water in the basement after they moved in on any decent rain? Huh?
Beeeeeeeeecause, NOBODY bothered to, had the knowledge etc to, correctly FIND and…then FIX, the real problems which were exterior cracks, openings in the basement wall.
Raising and sloping the grade NEVER repairs/waterproofs whatever the homeowners actual problem is.
Not much wrong with this grade either so WHY did the basement leak?
Photo’s of why the basement leaked and only means of STOPPING the water from entering the exterior cracks and other openings which then stopped further mold and efflorescence on their wall inside… http://picasaweb.google.com/101049034584960315932/BasementWaterproofing16
Photos 6,7,8,9, 10, 11, 12 was WHY the basement leaked. Was where water entered into the hollow-blocks and then that water stayed inside the blocks and dropped/fell through the lower blocks where it THEN came out onto basement floor, at-along the very bottom of basement wall, floor.
Most in this scam ball business would have tried bs’g the homeowners and told them they needed an interior basement system. They would have told 'em lots of crap, often the inside system salesturds tell homeowners the reason they get/see water along the very bottom of wall/floor is because of a supposed hydrostatic pressure problem UNDER the basement floor that only their stupid inside system and sump pump can solve, NONSENSE!
Seller of this house screwed up, home inspector screwed up.
Grade was raised and sloped away, did THAT solve the leaky basement or stop the mold/efflorescence? Nope. http://picasaweb.google.com/101049034584960315932/BasementWaterproofing72
click any photo to enlarge duh photo, so you can SEE 'em better
HI either didn’t see the little crack on the inside wall or, as some do and actually tell homeowners, DON’T worry about little cracks, loool
HI did indeed see/notice at least some efflorescence etc on inside blocks
HI should at least LOSE inspection fee, yep.
Seller should be sued, false claims, misrepresentation, yep.
5 steps to a DRY basement best include, first, TRULY finding the ACTUAL problem(s) as to why/where water is allowed to enter AND then, repair it correctly!
Or determine why water is building up/accumulating under a basement floor.
Was duh house built on a dang spring?
Is the lateral line clogged?
If there’s an existing sump pump, is there ANY problem with the pump or, a possible clog/blockage in the lines/tiles that lead to pit?
Is there a floor drain that was cemented over and now carpeted over/tiled over? Huh?
Is there a dripping, leaking WATER LINE under the floor or on the outside?
And so on.
Quite a few in this business claim they have the utmost experience/expertise and often, are the only dang honest ones in this business. Just more nonsense man. It’s all crap, as usual.
A former home inspector who does no ‘waterproofing’ has MORE skill and experience than myself or John McEwen or Capizzo Const or Integrity? Really??? False claim baby!!!
PROVE IT.
This is NOT basement waterproofing umm, the basement was not waterproofed by installing the interior basement system for how much $ ?
Plus, as usual, they have x-amount of mold and efflorescence on some blocks because, again, they did NOT stop the water/salts from where it CONTINUES to enter. 2 exterior corners have corner-cracks and the area area/chimney chute door area they are openings in chimney above ground and an exterior crack below, none of that was repaired by installing another incompetent interior system)
Dearborn Heights MI http://picasaweb.google.com/101049034584960315932/BasementWaterproofing53#5503128394464409202
That chimney area, as some of you good HI’s know, sometimes… some homeowners ONLY get water in basement through chimney chute door because of exterior openings in chimney etc ABOVE ground level. They’ll need to FIND any and all of them and get them repaired correctly, end of leak.
Sometimes it’ll just be 1 or more cracked/deteriorated mortar joints-bricks or openings around the flashing, crown etc.
And then other homeowners will have the same type problems/openings above ground in chimney but ALSO have 1+ exterior cracks in chimney wall(s) and they will need to waterproof the chimney walls… like this…
photos, basement waterproofing the chimney walls http://picasaweb.google.com/101049034584960315932/BasementWaterproofing08 click photos to enlarge
–umm, see downspout extension, grade raised, gee what could the problem(s) be.
What would ‘some’ have recommended, duh umm, i mean those who want to charge homeowners $100–200 or whatever to go over and tell them to extend downspout ext’s, raise grade and all that?
We/i don’t charge them anything and i FIND/identify their actual problem(s)!
I certainly do NOT, will never, go over to anyones home that has a leaky basement area and tell them all kinds of crrrrrap like raise and slope the grade or add longer downspout ext’s because THAT, has NOT, will never, ‘find–identify’… loool, the homeowners actual problem(s)! Nor does that stuff, fix/repair/waterproof/tuckpoint etc whatever the problem is, geeeeezuz.
WHY CAN’T MANY UNDERSTTTTTTAND this! looooooooooooooooooool
Duh Bubb’s has NEVER said all wet basement’s leak because of exterior cracks or other exterior openings, never. Never said all leaky basement remedies is exterior waterproofing, NOPE!
Throughout 37 years doing ONE thing/this/waterproofing biz, yeah, MOST leaky basements i have seen are/were DUE to exterior cracks in walls or rod holes or openings above grade.,but not all. That’s been in 4 states, most obviously here in MI, duh.
It’s why i have repeatedly brought up possible lateral line clog/blockage or tiles to a sump PIT possibly being clogged or too LOW or, some moron poured cement in 1 or more floors drains or a possible dripping/leaking water line, sprinkler line etc etc. Have always said, FIND, locate, determine the actual problem(s) and then get it fixed correctly.
Sometimes, back ups (accumulation of water under a basement floor) are due to a CITY problem, its on them, sometimes, yup.
Mark, I don’t agree with everything in the book either but some things do help that are recommended and can be done by the homeowner, I think Ron Gay does well in this regard.
I see lots of basements needing attention and it often comes down to what people can afford, if problem basements meant no home loans lots of houses would be sitting empty forever.
I find your posts with pictures a great help in educating myself further on keeping basements dry. Ron Gays book got me started, guys like you keep me thinking. Between both I get better everytime I read.
When I was a kid I tendered for my grandfather and uncle who did basements, I remember trucks hauling the excavation dirt out and new materials brought in. This was in Connecticut. If those basements leaked I never heard about it and I would have because my grandfather never compromised. He was old school but we used exterior water diversion science and proper backfill. Cheap to do when building, not so cheap later on.
Regarding Mr Ron G, say again, he seems like a good person and he does ‘get’… ‘some’ of this subject, yes.
But yet again lool, to claim nobody has more skill, experience, expertise than he on this subject is just self pumping and is a false claim. Doesn’t make me happy so say that but the truth is just that.
Cost? Well, here are photos of the installation of an interior basement system, basement is still leaking, more mold and efflorescence, cost $ 15,000 http://picasaweb.google.com/101049034584960315932/BasementWaterproofing41
Can post many more like this or videos where homeowners got scr_wed, lied to etc by interior companies, yes sir.
I ask, where is the savings? The homeowner, like many others, got ripped off. Is out all that cash and still has a leaky basement.
Yep, sure, other guys may indeed charge more than i do, some, waaaay too much and again, to me, THAT is a rip off. Not knocking some in other states where shtt costs more, i get it. Or, owner just feels the job is worth another $1,000 or so. But those who quote/claim $25,000 etc is what it takes to waterproof most basements on the exterior are full O crap, lying.
Unless the homeowner is B Gates or someone w/a mansion and actually needs exterior waterproofing all the way around, sure, it’ll obviously be a tad on the high side looool
Just like a owning a mansion and they need a new ROOF, well, bigger roof, bigger costs… got milk? :mrgreen:
No, but if you want to use your basement as a bathtub, it might work to keep the water in.
I feel the intent is in reverse, so you better make sure the water is kept out in lieu of in.
;)
Nope! I am on the same page as Mark, just look at it in different perspectives.
I am on a clay site, and most of the southern areas on the coastline have very deep sand base, but neither here nor there, a basement has to keep the water out. That is done from the outside, not from the interior.
When patching is done or waterproofing is done from the interior, it is just a band aid.
If the foundation is leaking at the interior, it has been breached of it’s waterproofing capabilities and needs to be repaired from the exterior where it has failed.
Most foundations have nothing more to brag about other than a friggin damp
We have some companies doing good exterior waterproofing here. When I was a young laborer I slapped on tar, that was in the late 60’s and what we did.
Now I see some good product applied by pressure to the walls, but I also still see million dollar homes getting little more than a thin spray of black stuff.
We are seeing way less block and going with poured foundations on the better homes. Block on the cheaper built homes.
Evaluate the perimeter of your house. You must ensure that the ground next to your foundation slopes away from the foundation, not towards it. Backfilled dirt around the foundation will typically settle lower than the surrounding dirt causing the ground to sink in and slope towards your house.
If necessary, add dirt up against the foundation to create at least a 2" per foot (that is, a drop of 2" for each foot you move away) slope against the foundation.
Make sure that the top of the dirt is at least six inches below the sill plate so that there is no ground contact which may cause certain building materials to rot in the future.
