Dryer vented into garage

What can I recommend to correct the dryer being vented to the garage. This garage was not added on, it was built with the orginal contruction in 1987. Was that acceptable back then? The house sits on a slab.

I recommend that the dryer be vented to the exterior. Period.

It was never acceptable, for any foundation type.

From last week: This gas dryer was in one garage and vented to an additional garage on the other side of the wall through a plastic duct into a stocking with a bucket below it. Talented I say :mrgreen:

I would worry about exhaust fumes with no flapped vent cover not to mention the thin copper line for the gas supply.
Add the plastic vent.
My goodness a nylon for a filter is sure to heat up the plastic vent.

Wrong. Period. I’ve seen cases where the fix was almost worse than what was there. I always put if not corrected ensure you open garage door when drying clothes. That usually gets some action. Who wants to do that?

That would correct the issues I listed …in your opinion?

One of the houses I grew up in was like this. When my parents sold the house 3 years ago the inspector wrote it up. As far I know it is still the same way

Thanks for all your input. I added the below information I found from another post.

*The 2006 edition of the IRC - International [FONT=CourierNewPSMT][size=3][FONT=CourierNewPSMT][size=3]Residential Code states the following [/size][/size][/FONT]*concerning ducts that penetrate garage walls and ceilings:
[FONT=CourierNewPSMT][size=3]R309.1.1 Duct Penetration
Ducts in the garage and ducts penetrating the walls or ceilings separating the
dwelling from the garage shall be constructed of a minimum No. 26 gauge (0.48 mm)
steel sheet or other approved material, and shall have no openings in the garage.
Dryer exhaust ducts that penetrate garage walls are serious fire hazards. These ducts
are generally made from plastic and will easily melt during a fire, creating a large
breach in the firewall.


That is fine but did you mention the soft copper tubing being used for a gas line.

I usually recommend corrugated steel vent to let them know the options.

That was Bobby’s post, not the OP’s.
Also, what’s wrong with lined copper for gas line?
Must be a Chicago thing.


I did not notice OP(oops) and eyes are blurry so more on this later but if you think soft copper unsecured bent into and through walls is a good idea then enjoy this picture.
soft copper gas line.jpg

…but if you think soft plastic unsecured bent into and through walls is a good idea then enjoy this picture.


So, what’s your point? That some idiot person damaged the tubing while installing it by not using a tubing bender??? In that case, you would be correct.

(btw… I didn’t see any damage to the tubing the pic’s)

OK technically it is allowed but I sure would not use it indoors.
This is coming from a guy(me) who used to use garden hose for torches.

Here are a couple tidbits on gas piping with regulations on repairs from peoples gas and a good comment from fine home building.

In some areas, natural gas has enough sulfur compounds to react with the copper. Check with the building inspector, some local codes allow copper tubing (and presumably only in areas where this is not a problem).

Also, black iron resists a nail strike or screw A LOT better than soft copper. A nail strike in copper can hold pressure for a long time but if the walls shift, etc, then you’ve got a gas leak.

Often galvanized is allowed also, but black iron is preferred because there is no zinc coating on the inside to flake off and travel downstream. Flakes hopefully are caught in a drip leg. But if not, they can clog a burner. Worse, they can block a solenoid from fully closing and cause a leak or over-temp condition.

Basically they will not do any repairs to copper tubing for you which is a negative in and of itself.

Only exposed piping is eligible for repair. The following gas piping is excluded from coverage: corrugated stainless steel tubing; underground gas piping; gas piping in or to mobile homes; gas piping to and in outbuildings not attached to the primary location; gas piping in any facility used for commercial purposes; exposed gas piping located in crawl spaces and other spaces that are difficult to gain access to; gas piping located in the common areas of multi-unit buildings; gas piping located on rooftops or attics when there is no floor or no conventional access; gas piping involved in tampering with utility facilities or the theft of gas;*copper gas piping; and gas piping larger than 1¼ inches in diameter.*Devices or equipment utilized to regulate gas pressure and gas boosters are not covered. Repairs to appliances are not included, except Peoples Gas will perform repairs to (but not replacement of) pilot tubing.

Thus the reason for “tin lined” copper tubing.

Are you prepared for 12/21/12 ???

So it looks like they will only repair about 3 ft of exposed black iron pipe in the whole home. :shock:

This document sets forth the terms and conditions of your agreement with Peoples Gas, and you for the Pipeline Protection Program (PPP).

I understood that… and just like the telephone company agreement… totally useless.

They add it to the bill and I imagin you can opt out but gas companies means more as a homeowner since the phone lines never blow up unless it is 2012.

And when it does “blow up”, their responsibility ends with replacing that 3ft section of black iron piping.

Actually the nice thing is you can call them for an emergency.

I discovered pin hole leaks when working for Sears in elbows that were provided me and it ended up being a big recall.

I was confused by the leakage showing with my bubble test and called Peoples gas getting me chewed out at first.

Now that I think about it that may have been my first big inspection.:slight_smile:

I think we all know that the dryer venting is unacceptable and the gas line in the photo should have been black iron pipe to be in the wall with no joints allowed.
Copper pipe shall not be used if the gas contains more than an average of 0.3 grains of hydrogen sulfide per 100 scf of gas. Gas tubing shall be of type K or type L.
Piping installed aboveground shall be securely supported and located where it is protected from physical damage.
To meet that requirement in the above photo, it should of been black iron schedule 40 pipe.