7 am arrival, exterior job site area, AC, some bushes etc, if this old man could start at 5 am i would
view inside the basement, the leaky area, 90 yr old super nice lady and hell of a nephew who looks after her. HAD there been drywall up i’d have recommended to them to first cut 1 or sometimes 2-3 holes in drywall to help identify the problem(s), be it a crack in wall or sometimes it is ONLY 1 or a few rod holes that deteriorated and then allowed water in… when the problem is ONLY 1+ rod holes then NO NEED for any waterproofing, just plug the dang rod holes correctly. So that’s why it doesn’t hurt to cut a lil drywall off, some get lucky n only have 1+ leaky rod holes, FOLLa?
back outside, THE problems that are allowing water in, no doubt, zero but if you wanna slap drylok on walls or pile soil along the house well, lot of luck baby.
outside view from ground level, so all openings, crack and under the window sill + hydraulic cement, then a THICK mastic, roofing cement applied over ALL of the F wall we dug out, top to bottom, end TA end, then 6 mil visqueen, then the entire trench is backfilled with all gravel, about 4" top soil/dirt on top on that, clean shtt up n then its milk-time, dig?
would you rather J hammer basement floor perimeter, install a partial system along 1 wall or, get talked into a full perimeter system… and sump, costing you much more $$ than the $1,550 i charged.
re------GRADING, have had quite a few homeowners who got talked into that n PAID $2,000–4,000 for regrading, depending on how much shtt homeowner wanted done, how’s that such a good option when after spending that amount of cash you will still be hoping and a prayin’ no water enters. Show me THEIR guarantee in writing that no water will enter basement after regrading n for how long, pftt.
