Fuse panel on outside of house!!!

Originally Posted By: dedwards
This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.



http://www.nachi.org/bbsystem/usrimages/n/not_weather_rated_.jpg ]


[ Image: http://www.nachi.org/bbsystem/usrimages/o/old_fuse_panel_outside.jpg ]


[ Image: http://www.nachi.org/bbsystem/usrimages/o/open_knockouts.jpg ]


Originally Posted By: dedwards
This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.



Oh yeah, I forgot to mention it was at about 4 foot level, just about kiddie height. The panel above it is the Main with a loose dead cover w/o any screws holding it on. It got worse.


Originally Posted By: bbadger
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Those are NEMA 3R panels (Raintight Panels) they are made to be outside.


That said very few if any dwelling units in this area have outdoor panels, most are in the basements. ![icon_cool.gif](upload://oPnLkqdJc33Dyf2uA3TQwRkfhwd.gif)

I do not enjoy working on any outdoor electrical equipment in the rain or snow.


--
Bob Badger
Electrical Construction & Maintenance
Moderator at ECN

Originally Posted By: roconnor
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Looks like the right exterior enclosure type (NEMA 3R) since the cover swings up. Did it appear watertight, with no signs of significant corrosion?


There are also other issues with fused panels, like making sure Type-S (rejection base) fuses have been installed and that local homeowner insurance companies are okay with fused panels. Although my opinion is that fused panels are actually safer ... but lets not go there again ... ![icon_lol.gif](upload://zEgbBCXRskkCTwEux7Bi20ZySza.gif)


--
Robert O'Connor, PE
Eagle Engineering ?
Eagle Eye Inspections ?
NACHI Education Committee

I am absolutely amazed sometimes by how much thought goes into doing things wrong

Originally Posted By: dedwards
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Not particularly rusted inside but some surface rusting and lots of critter droppings inside and a few lizard skeletons. They probably threw themselves onto the bus to end the misery of living here. Cover did not close tightly so I doubt it is very water tight. Home is a 1948 circa. Lots of hair raising electrical discrepancies in the attic, crawl space and outbuilding.


Originally Posted By: bbadger
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dedwards wrote:
Cover did not close tightly so I doubt it is very water tight.


Not trying to bust your chops here just passing on some info.

To the NEC raintight is not at all the same as watertight.

3R equipment can really only handle rain or water coming down from above. They also have drain holes on the bottom to let out the water that will leak in.

Not the sort of equipment to be used in car washes or commercial kitchens where water may be sprayed horizontally.

Water and oil tight equipment are classified 4 or 4x minimum. Equipment with those ratings have gasketed covers and no drain holes.


--
Bob Badger
Electrical Construction & Maintenance
Moderator at ECN

Originally Posted By: dedwards
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Bob,


Thanks, that is good information to have. I don’t get offended when someone is trying to pass on info. A lot of years in military. Anyone want to chew on my butt all they are going to get is scar tissue. I appreciate your help.


Originally Posted By: lkage
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dedwards wrote:
Anyone want to chew on my butt all they are going to get is scar tissue.


![icon_lol.gif](upload://zEgbBCXRskkCTwEux7Bi20ZySza.gif) I'll have to remember that one. ![icon_lol.gif](upload://zEgbBCXRskkCTwEux7Bi20ZySza.gif)


--
"I have never met a man so ignorant that I couldn't learn something from him."
Galileo Galilei

Originally Posted By: roconnor
This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.



bbadger wrote:
To the NEC raintight is not at all the same as watertight.

Bob is correct ... the exterior panel should be "weathertight" (not watertight") ... that is what I really meant ... ![icon_wink.gif](upload://ssT9V5t45yjlgXqiFRXL04eXtqw.gif)


--
Robert O'Connor, PE
Eagle Engineering ?
Eagle Eye Inspections ?
NACHI Education Committee

I am absolutely amazed sometimes by how much thought goes into doing things wrong

Originally Posted By: bbadger
This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.



dedwards wrote:
Bob,
Thanks, that is good information to have. I don't get offended when someone is trying to pass on info.


No problem and I am glad you took as helpful and not nitpicking. ![icon_smile.gif](upload://b6iczyK1ETUUqRUc4PAkX83GF2O.gif)


dedwards wrote:
A lot of years in military. Anyone want to chew on my butt all they are going to get is scar tissue.




I agree with Larry, that is a good one.


--
Bob Badger
Electrical Construction & Maintenance
Moderator at ECN

Originally Posted By: jtedesco
This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.



If those Edison base fuses are 30 amperes they are supposed to be replaced with an adapter and properly sized Fustats because there is evidence of over fusing.



Joe Tedesco, NEC Consultant


www.nachi.org/tedescobook.htm

Originally Posted By: roconnor
This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.



jtedesco wrote:
If those Edison base fuses are 30 amperes they are supposed to be replaced with an adapter and properly sized Fustats because there is evidence of over fusing.

That is the NEC requirement (240.51), but I tend to take a little more conservative apparoach wearing my HI hat and recommend that ALL edison base fuses be replaced with the Type-S rejection base inserts and fuses.
.

roconnor wrote:
There are also other issues with fused panels, like making sure Type-S (rejection base) fuses have been installed and that local homeowner insurance companies are okay with fused panels.


TYPICAL TYPE-S INSERTS & FUSES:
![](upload://xvhaSUVP0QaLVjGDgV47r8zMU8M.jpeg)


There was also a pretty good discussion on fused panels a while back ... CLICK HERE


--
Robert O'Connor, PE
Eagle Engineering ?
Eagle Eye Inspections ?
NACHI Education Committee

I am absolutely amazed sometimes by how much thought goes into doing things wrong