Q and A time, duh hey Mark.........

… Q) i only leak/seep (get water in the basement!) on longer, heavier rains.

A’s-- Well, they likely have an exterior crack in basement wall and when the crack is a horizontal crack DOWN LOW (as in photo) then it takes more water, a longer heavier rain to get DOWN there where it then goes THROUGH the exterior horizontal crack and comes out inside the basement, at-along the very bottom of the basement floor/wall
See the horizontal crack down low, huh? This lady already paid/had B Dry install an interior system and sump pump, is out thousands $$$ beeeeeeeeecause, NO interior system and sump pmp repairs/waterproofs any exterior crack or other exterior openings.

Another possibility can be, the homeowner has a small thin haircrack crack and again, it often (not always!) takes more water/rain to go through small hairline cracks and other small exterior openings

And sometimes it’s not so much the size of the exterior crack, as there may be UNDERGROUND TREE ROOTS that soak up x-amount of water that would otherwise enter/pass through the cracks…

Roots soak up x-amount of water, eh…

Here, the underground ROOT ‘caused’ the exterior cracks which THEN allowed water to enter the basement…

And still others may not leak as often and only on longer rains because they have concrete on the exterior, where they have an exterior crack(s) in wall, like this…
Drive-side, first 6 or so photos…
SELLER did NOT disclose, buyer gets screwed again. Seller also TARRED along edge of driveway and house, loool

Here, 3 corners leaked…1 corner was drive–side corner, concrete so this corner did not leak as OFTEN as the other 2, got that???

So that’s SOME of the reasons why ya’s leak on longer, heavier rains, spring thaws.

Q----- Markie Mark, i only leak at–near a corner… why?
A) Most often (not always) the homeowner has an exterior CORNER crack or other exterior opening(s) that allows water to enter, see photo (or last link of several exterior corner cracks)
Photo’s of exterior corner cracks and other gaps/openings…
The SELLER raised and slope the soil away AND put on a longer downspout extension and somebody put down some plastic, just underneath grade level. Did all that fix the actual problems? Loool hardly, come on!

Here HO leaked at near corner, poured wall, crack and some rod holes were WHY!!
Don’t believe the many MYTHS folks, one being you have a poor grade and just add soil and slope the soil away from your house, NONSENSE, incompetent crrrrap. Shhesh, eyeball the GRADE here at this house, wake up.

Grade was RAISED and sloped away here, did that stop the water from entering? Nope!
Seller screwed up again, whether they were told to do this crap by Haege or a home inspector or on their own, dumb!
Sometimes a homeowner has gaps/openings where a gas line (or other service line) enters the basement wall…

Some homeowners will leak at-near a corner because of something like this, deteriorated, disintegrated blocks… NO inside basement system and 69 sumps pumps repairs/seal this either!

These are some of the reasons MOST leak/seep at-near a corner, won’t get into all the dang reasons now eh.

Q-- Yoooooooooo Uncle Mark, we only get water in our basement on WIND BLOWN rains, NOT on spring thaws, what’s the deal?

A More often than not, a homeowner will have 1++ openings ABOVE grade, above ground level, that allows water to enter their basement such as poorly installed FIRST floor windows, basement windows, openings around/above, under, basement windows, open-cracked bricks or mortar joints and where a service line enters the house that’s needs caulking and openings around, under, any DOORS, and so on…
-Caulking need or replacement of basement window

-Tuckpointing need, you best believe water can enter above a wall, yes indeedy

-See wood, just under siding and just above basement wall, huh? Patio was installed too…HIGH!!! looool

Rest of that home’s photos, duh pavers etc…

Q-- Hey Uncle BUBBA, eh, we already had/paid for exterior waterproofing and it still leaks!

A!!! loooooool
Well, most likely whoever you hired did one stinking lousy incompetent job, like this…no hydraulic cement used in/over the crack and they backfilled with the SAME shtty clay soil!!! FIRST 7 or so photo’s…

OR, whoever you hired and when you were at work and they were doing the job, did something like this(photo)…only dug it down 6"–12", looool rip offs, shtt like this.

Previous attempt of exterior waterproofing. They backfilled with the same clay (mistake, hello!) and incompetently thought vertical drain tiles filled with a little gravel would be enough, duh, this crap doesn’t ‘LAST’ !!

ORR, or, or, or… sometimes the dummies homeowners hire did NOT identify/determine the ACTUAL problem where the stupid water is still entering. This means, they automatically thought and told YOU, the basement wall needed to be waterproofed BUTT, that was NOT true and, the reason, the place the was is still entering is… above ground, as mentioned before! Like openings in, around basement windows, doors, cracked mortar joints etc etc and so, waterproofing the WALL did not fix/seal the homeowner actual problem which were openings ABOVE the wall!!! Now they have your $$$$ and YOU still leak. All because they are either CROOKS or just plain old incompetent sob’s!!!

A former home inspector here of 20 years, apparently. Now does a radio home improvement show and am sure he’s trying to help but is absolutely WRONG where he states/claims (near end of article), “Following these simple guidelines will solve 99% of wet basement blues”. (his grading etc guidelines) In my honest EXPERIENCED hands-on opinion, he, and any other HI etc, is waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay off! It’s an incompetent statement.

Grade? looolol!!! Go back and CLOSELY look at some of the previously posted links/photos of prior attempts of raising and sloping the dang grade!!!
Grading? Reallly? FIRST 12 photos here, what’s duh grade look like TA you?
So umm duh, was the homeowners problem the GRADE etc OR, a hairline crack in the basement wall that allowed water in his basement where the crack was!!! Coime on!

99% of all leaky, wet basement can SUPPOSEDLY be SOLVED by playing with the grade, longer downspout ext’s etc, really?
The SELLER here, was told their leaky, wet basement blues was supposedly because/due to, improper slope of driveway slabs and so, the seller paid 6,000 for a NEW DRIVEWAY so that, looooool, the new slabs would be SLOPED AWAY!@!@###@!!

Please man, knock off the BS, the MYTHS on this subject BECAUSE, all YOU are doing is screwing over buyers, sellers, homeowners!

Oh and ummm duhhh, will not ever apologize again for long, sometimes poorly worded/phrased posts, u kidding? looolllll If some really want to know WHY most basements leak then, it is NOT easily answered in a few g dang paragraphs, moronzz!!

Rainbow/Ritchie and duh crew… The Gates of Babylon … “You can SEE but your blind, SOMEONE turned the SUN around!”

Homeowner lied to, screwed over by an interior system company…
$17,000+ for mira drain blllshtt and tar on INTERIOR walls, Idiots!
Contract, supposed guarantee etc etc…
https://waterproofinggonewrong.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/contract-agreement-i-pages-1-and-2.pdf ](,)](,)](,)](,)](,)](,)](,)](,)](,)](,)

And some erroneously and incompetently tell homeowners that exterior waterproofing is waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay MORE costly than the inside garbage! Lying sobs.

Rick from Sterling Heights Michigan, a real homeowner, not some paid blshtt as many do, anyone want to call him, ask him, go ahead, let me know. He got 2 estimates from Everdry for $15,000 and $27,000… watch, listen to him
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cLzdt6wkS24 __ 80+ views!! looloolllllllll
Tons of youtube waterproofing videos err, interior water-diverting videos that have 5,000 +++ views!!!@@@####@!!! U peeps, most, have been BRAIN WASHED by scumbag companies.

‘Basement services group exterior repair still leaks???’

Justin Shiffler…
as noted in first post here (and elsewhere, got milk?) what EXACTLY did THEY do?
Detail their ‘exterior repair’.

Did they hand dig this lone area all the way and waterproof this area of wall?
Or, did they did dig it down 1-2’ and damproof it and backfill with the same soil? Big difference! And an honest expert would use/apply hydraulic cement on exterior wall/crack/around pipe etc, FIRST!

See Justin posted another short video at same time titled, ‘Rain swail fail’
Well, is THAT what they did? :roll:

He says they have plans on installing $4,000 in carpet in basement. Well, best be SURE you have NO other-areas around entire basement that are close-to, about-to, leak… such as deteriorating rod holes etc BEHIND drywall!!

What is your point with this thread?

There’s several points here Mr. Lewis.

Those are a few Q and A’s i often get on wet, leaking basements. Get tired of hearing non-experts tell homeowners most/almost ALL of their leaky basements can be solved by grading etc, its incompetent bs… sir.

Just like in this video titled, Foundation issues in the spring (wet basements), Q and A session with a building inspector
he says several things to LOOK for to keep basements DRY…
3:50 … example, 'homeowner has a little water in their basement, how do they know it’s a grading problem? How does a homeowner know THAT is the problem?

Duh, the inspector answers/talks about grading, downspout ext’s and so on, does NOT bring up, explain to people that they SHOULD always first… find/locate/determine WHY and WHERE the water is getting in, be it possibly through a crack in basement wall or 1+ leaky rod holes or 1+ openings around/under basement windows, doors, mortar joints or possible blockage in lateral line etc etc.

Most basements leak because there is a crack(s) in foundation wall OR, cracked parging on the exterior basement wall (sometimes there was no parging applied to exterior, like most crawlspace walls) OR other openings on exterior of basement walls (rod holes etc) OR… openings ABOVE ground level such as gaps/crevices around/under basement windows, doors, cracked-open mortar joints/bricks etc OR a possible blockage in lateral line, basement back up etc etc.

Better GRADING, longer downspouts does not, has not… identified the ACTUAL PROBLEM (s), nor does adding soil and longer downspouts FIX–REPAIR the actual problem! Hello!

The Q and A video session, as usual, doesn’t explain to anyone listening, WHY most basements leak, have some mold or efflorescence etc. Again, its pretty much all about grading, longer downspouts… so its at least INCOMPENT because they do not explain WHY and where, most basements leak!

Just look at the grade…hmmmm, ok, lets look at this grade in Rochester MI

Same house, grade…

Same house…

IS the grade sloped away, huh? And even IF it was NOT, the grade was NOT going to be WHY the basement leaked!!!

Here is one of the reasons the basement leaked, hairline crack. There were alos some open leaky rod holes in same area and other exterior openings that allowed water to enter

One SHOULD go about their leaky basement problem by taking some time, having some g dang patience, and remove some drywall/paneling if need be, to SEE, to identify if there is a crack or 1+ leaky rod holes or possibly they may see water, water-stains UP HIGH//at the TOP of basement wall which will lead them to an above-grade/along the grade, problem and the actual solution.

You don’t, shouldn’t, just tell homeowners to check the dumb az grade and downspouts and tell them THAT is the likely cause, that is incompetent bullshtt.

This woman was told to disconnect her BACK downspout and REROUTE the stupid thing and to caulk along house, driveway edge… see???

Same home…

Here was the WHY and WHERE the basement leaked and the lone-fix which again, was not longer downspout extenions or rerouting the dumb thing on mudjacking slabs etc, no

And around the corner, another crack

Somebody incorrectly thought pouring some new concrete slabs would SOLVE the leaky basement here…:roll:
aggggggggain, its NOT the pitch, slope of concrete slabs or the dumb soil
The concrete is actually too HIGH, up against unprotected bricks etc

–Same house
Water/rain gets UNERNEATH concrete slabs…enters basements through anything like this…

Did spending $$$ on the newer concrete slabs ‘identify’ the real reasons the basement leaked?

And did the better pitch of the newer concrete slabs fix/repair the actual problems/reasons the basement leaked???

Sooooooooooooooo, another POINT is, ANY home inspector, building inspector, realtor, landscaper etc etc that tells homeowners who have leaky basements that their likely or only problem and solution is to re-grade or pour new concrete slabs or extend downspout extension out to the Pacific Ocean is wrong, is incompetent. And do we know HOW MANY HI’s, city inspectors, realtors etc think/believe this crap?

POINT, find/identify/determine/look-for… the homeowners actual problem(s) and then, fix/repair it correctly and fixing/repairing whatever the problem is, is NOT grading, longer downspouts, nope.

Jesus, loool, am NOT saying peeps shouldn’t have their grade sloped away!@!@!!!
Am not saying don’t add longer downspout ext’s!

Does anyone, any HI… thoroughly understand what the hlll it is I’m trying to explain in order to…really help those w/leaky dang basements, huh? AND, to not get screwed over by these inside system nut cases!! loooolllll

Have taken a lot of time posted many photos and unbiased links on what expansive soil, roots etc does the basement walls and the real reasons/causes of why most basements leak and what to REALLY friggin do about it… yet, other than around 9 or 10 Nachi HI’s who’ve commented and actually said thanks or added their own good points and thoughts etc, seems most other HI’s here and elsewhere don’t care, don’t get-it or don’t want to get-it.

Post here because you folks/HI’s, most of your clients are… HOMEOWNERS and many HI’s claim/state they ‘inspect foundation walls, leaky basements’ etc. So, in part, the shttt I keep posting about could actually help YOU, and help your clients better, on this subject.

Yet the feedback I fairly often get on posting photos etc of leaky basements is… nothing or, ‘why do I keep posting the same sht’ and ‘why soooo long’ or, ‘What am I talking about, what are my points in the thread’. Or, one of your boys in Canada or Mass talking shtt, looooooooool, now THAT was pathetic, got milk?

Can’t find the thread right now but have read here on some Nachi TRAINING thread where quite a few posted photos of poor grading and stated they’d recommend to HO to regrade etc. In some of those photos, there was either some efflorescence or mold or leaky basement areas and YET, the recommendations were to regrade etc…and NOTHING about finding/identifying why those basements showed signs of water intrusion and efflorescence etc, hello!!!

Thanks for the FEW Nachi members who have read and actually looked at some of the photos etc and UNDERSTAND this subject much better than apparently, most other Nachi peeps. Thank you for acknowledging my old azz and VALID g dang POINTS. Jesus, WHY wouldn’t most home inspectors want to learn/understand this subject better, huh? (same incompetent crap as these interior basement system companies, owners/salespeople)

It would certainly help YOUR clients better and could save your dumb azz from being SUED or losing inspection fee somewhere down the road on this-subject.

Question for Mark.

Got Milk?

Must be Bubba again.

Fox Tv 6 and a home inspector on ‘preventing basement flooding’, how to keep your basement dry. ](,)#-o](,)#-o](*,)#-o

As usual, nothing about finding/locating/determing where-why basements leak.

Nothing such as, gee whiz George, there is a crack in the basement wall or, hmm, you have 1+ leaking rod holes behind your stupid drywall or, shtt dude, water is coming in up high through openings around your basement window/door or a blockage in the lateral line etc.
Nah, it couldn’t possibly be THOSE.

Grade, downspout and… :27 home inspector says, ‘make sure your PLANTS etc are at least 18" away from the home’. #-o#-o#-o

Hmmmm, here/photos, homeowner was getting water in basement, one area, between the far BUSH and the basement window… could it be the basement leaked because, as the HI said, the bush is too close to DUH house? #-o loooooooooooollllllllllllllllllllllooooooooooooooooooooooooooool!!

Is the GRADE sloped/pitched away? Was it DAT? ](*,)

Hand digging it out…

Could the actual-problem/cause, of water entering the basement be DIS? :-k

And THIS? :-k

And some tell homeowners to pay a supposedly unbiased home inspector to come over and see/tell them why their basement leaks? Huh? loooooooooooooooooooooooooooool

Flat ROOF leaks…duh. Did it leak because the roof is FLAT aka, duh, not pitched?

What’s the right way, competent-experienced way to go about finding why a roof leaks?

What was the SOLUTION?
Ya TINK the roofers recommended to pick up the roof to give it a better PITCH so it’s, sloped away… huh? looolllooooooooooooool

What, install some sort of drainage/guttering system up there and NOT take the time to find, locate, where the water is entering?

Yeah, that IS what quite a few home inspectors, city inspectors, realtors etc tell homeowners when a basement leaks, and they are incompetent BOZO’s for doing so.

You should not be making some BS blanket-statement, some incompetent claim like the basement leaks because of the grade or house needs 8 mile long downspout extensions!

You should be taking the time to FIND, locate how/where the dumb water is getting in!
And quite a few home inspectors and interior basement system companies do NOT do this!!!

Here’s JOHNNY!!!

Example, another ‘point’…
Home inspector webby… (not at all saying they suck or they are incompetent inspectors etc, no, hardly).

But where they claim in 2nd paragraph and also way down at bottom under basement and foundation… they claim their team of inspectors has the knowledge and background to give your property a thorough, detailed check for ANY issues. From HIDDEN FOUNDATION FLAWS to…

And at the bottom they say, a professional home inspector will inspect the OUTSIDE foundation walls…

Unless they were to dig or, REALLY had the expertise and knowledge of this-subject then, how would THEY or any other home inspector know the following defect(s) exist???
Photo of INSIDE basement wall… do you see what’s called a corner-crack on the inside wall? Huh?

And here’s the SAME corner on the outside…
Is there an EXISTING crack, defect, on the exterior foundation wall that allows water etc into the basement? Huh?

How would they or any other HI know it exists if they don’t DIG or run a water-test or have the expertise/experience it may very well exist???

When a homeowner tells an HI they get water in the basement and the HI does NOT do a water-test or, dig it down a little to CHECK for possible corner crack and INSTEAD tells the HO to raise and slope the grade, get new gutters and longer downspouts… who is NOT determining the actual existing defects in order to get to the CORRECT SOLUTION!!!

The HI webby claims they check for ANY issues, HIDDEN FOUNDATION FLAWS…right!!! looooooolllll

Well, that is BULLLLshttttt unless, they dig, do a water test etc.

If an HI tells/recommends to a HO who gets x-amount of water inbasement, as in these photos(below) to, raise and slope the grade and does NOT recommend removing part of the DRYWALL then, how are they helping the homeowner, their client, get the the real problems and solution???

Any home inspector who claims they check for ANY issues and HIDDEN foundation flaws when they actually do NOT, is full of sht! Erroneous claims, aka, bulllshttt. False claims!!!

Oh, so you inspect the inside basement wall(s) and the OUTSIDE, really?
Do you have SUPERMAN–vision to see through 1’–6’ of soil?
Photo-- interior foundation wall

Same wall, outside…
1 of many existing, exterior openings in foundation wall, aka defects that allow water, soil gases etc inside, duh!!!

You check for ANY issues?
Check for HIDDEN foundation flaws, outside? Reallllllly? looool
Unless they’re digging or have superman vision, they’ll have NO idea of those many exterior, EXISTING openings in foundation wall baby!

Will any home inspector ever admit that what they thought/were told etc that re-grading, adding soil and sloping it away, longer downspouts does NOT find/determine ANY HOMEOWER’s actual problem as to WHY and WHERE they get water in basement, huh?
You’ve been BS’d, just like many homeowners are bs’d.

Frooooom Nachi-land, the waterproofing show starring Johnny B… heeeeeeeeeeeeeerrrrreeee’s Bubba! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WZKmsA8bzao

I could write a book (and often do in my reports) on the inferior repairs by the so called experts.

I speak with Mr Anderson on occasion and also a local contractor that gets it. (Integrity waterproofing).

The system I came across on Friday was:twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::shock::shock::shock::shock::shock::roll::roll::roll::roll::roll:.

Water control systems are not waterproofing systems. Home owners are being ripped off by these companies and more and more are appearing with there warranties, guaranties, easy breath systems being advertised by a radio host as well as his other crap. (Gutter Brush)

Thanks go out to Integrity (Owner (Steve), wife and sons) and Mark A (Bubber Man)
as they show great passion and understanding in there work and are truly experts in there craft.

Here are a few pics from Friday but do not tell the full story.
Wall Anchors (garbage) - Just use the wrench to fix it:shock:

I have many more for this house and a library of homes like this one some worse, some not as bad.

I get were Mark is going as he has to deal with the **** daily!!

I think we need to do something to educate the consumer before they are ripped off, lets do a Nachi segment and post on are websites!!

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Is that your professional opinion or are you just shooting from the hip?

I have seen these used.

Please tell me how you know they have not been effective in dealing with the bowed wall.

Professional opinion.

Does not do much for the horizontal crack at grade level with almost 3 inches of displacement. 2 walls. (Anchors are garbage IMHO in this case)

Water is intruding above the inferior wall panels and at the anchor themselves. No support on the walls above the crack and anchors

Those wall anchors have probably been there for decades.

For anyone interested in learning.



I was more concerned about the water infiltration then the foundation repairs. I wont warranty this repair. if it was done last year or decades ago.

Inside systems are mainly a rip off.

Dave, thanks for the words and photos.

Mr Larson, a bowed in block, brick wall has EXTERIOR cracks, cracked exterior parging so, how would installing ANY interior basement system and 45 wall anchors repair/waterproof those exterior cracks?

And often, the wall bowed in DUE TO exterior SOIL PRESSURE, lateral soil pressure so, the only means of reducing, relieving-removing some of that pressure acting upon the bowed in wall is to dig, get rid of some of that expansive clay soil as Fairfax link below explains (unbiased eh)
…scroll down a little to, Basement Wall DAMAGE
–Resolution, in part they say 'To prevent future damage, the clay MUST be REMOVED and replaced with sandy-gravelly soils…and the exterior wall waterproofed

–>>Do they tell people to install an interior system and WALL ANCHORS on bowed in, cracked walls??

Some walls can crack, bow in DUE TO underground tree roots or concrete slabs etc that are against the wall so, how would installing 45 wall anchors and an interior basement system remove, relieve those?
Underground tree root caused exterior cracks which then caused leaky basement

Same house, part of what you’d seen on interior wall, step crack… and quite a few would have told homeowner their house is settling and needs piers etc, big $$$ wasted

Wall anchors previously installed here, why? Another incompetent, self-serving, misrepresentative sale
Click any photo to enlarge the photo…
The honest, correct explanation to any homeowner with a wall, leaks, anything like this SHOULD have been, hand dig, waterproof the exterior and backfill w/all gravel because… exterior clay soil and possibly underground roots etc caused the damage, cracks.
Some cracks have widened since anchors installed and what about those deteriorating blocks inside?

Speaking of deteriorated blocks, what about anyone, any homeowner who has a BOWED WALL and, has deteriorated, disintegrated EXTERIOR blocks like this…

Same house, bowed wall view…

So the installation of basement wall anchors or carbon fiber straps would NOT ever be the honest and correct means of solving ANY of these types of problems.

Horizontal cracks DOWN LOW too…

http://picasaweb.google.com/101049034584960315932/BasementWaterproofing12#5442258005421892386 This basement STILL leaks in other areas where B DRY installed their interior system! And, some cracks have widened because…lol, interior systems and wall anchors etc do not remove, relieve ANY exterior weight/pressure.

Another home, horizontal crack down low… the installation of wall anchors or carbon fiber etc on/against the interior basement wall and installation of any interior basement system does NOT repair/waterproof these cracks!!!

Same house, wall anchors, carbon fiber straps NOR any interior basement system don’t repair/waterproof any exterior vertical cracks either…
The basement leaked and had efflorescence on interior blocks BECAUSE, due to, water entering the blocks THROUGH these exterior cracks and some other exterior openings, period, wake up folks.

So i try and explain again, what the hll are some doing, what in the world are they thinking?

When a basement wall has bowed in, cracked, basement leaks due to these exterior cracks and causes of the cracks are lateral soil pressure (say again see Fairfax county link and explanation) or underground tree roots or concrete slabs that settled against a basement wall or porch footings, the installation of wall anchors or carbon fiber on the inside and installation of any interior system does not, has not, removed/relieved/reduced ANY pressure-weight acting upon the wall!!’

Nor does the installation of wall anchors and any interior basement system stop further water from entering any of those exterior cracks!!!
It won’t stop further deterioration/disintegration of blocks!!!

It doesn’t stop-prevent mold or efflorescence on inside walls because, they don’t waterproof any of those exterior cracks or other exterior openings, hellllo!!

Come on folks, you’ve been BS’d!

Another homeowner who was BS’d, photo 2… had an interior basement system and some beams installed for $15,000+
click photos to enlarge

It would NOT have mattered IF/HAD… wall anchors been installed instead of beams!
WHY??? looollll oh my, again…
because, the cause(s) of the walls bowing in and the causes of the cracks, exterior cracks and subsequent leaks, mold and efflorescence were not addressed correctly, were not fixed/repaired/removed/reduced!!!

Home inspectors, geez, do you good people understand? You’ve been so bs’d or misled!
IF anything, wall anchors or beams could be used BUTT, in conjunction with exterior waterproofing…reducing the amount of pressure/weight or roots or concrete etc acting upon a basement wall AND, repairing/waterproofing all those exterior cracks or cracked parging (sometimes there was no parging applied!), and deteriorated-disintegrated blocks in order to STOP the water from entering in order to stop/prevent mold or efflorescence on interior wall(s). Plus insects, radon gas etc enters these same exterior openings.

Short video examples (points lol) of ‘some’ of what i mean.
Some incompetent interior system company talked another homeowner into an interior basement system and sump pump.

Bowed, cracked basement wall, leaky basement, efflorescence etc.

The basement wall already had EXTERIOR cracks, cracked parging. That was why and where water was getting into the blocks and then came out onto the floor along the very bottom of basement wall/floor.

So these dingbats bs’d the homeowner and sold them the interior basement system which did NOT relieve, reduce ANY exterior pressure-weight acting upon the basement wall!!

And, the installation of the interior system NEVER repaired/waterproofed the exterior cracks!

So, when one doesn’t remove, relieve exterior soil pressure/weight and doesn’t waterproof the exterior cracks this is what can happen…further problems to the basement wall.

Even IF wall anchors had been installed with the stupid interior basement system, they still would get an F in competence because they still would NOT have reduced, relieved any exterior pressure acting upon/against the basement wall and agaiiiiin, would not have waterproofed the exterior cracks that allowed water in, caused the efflorescence.

Here’s the same guy/contractor that took another short video on same day, starts inside the basement then takes ya outside…

They should have DUG! Yep. Should NOT have installed any interior basement system and should have hand dug/waterproofed the exterior! But they don’t because they are at least a little incompetent and always want to install their interior turdball systems which is easier on them and makes them more money!!!

In other words, it is better for THEM, these companies… NOT what is best for the basement wall, not whats best for the exterior cracks etc.

And this short video shows anyone with any dang common sense just how many of these interior basement system companies bulllllshtttt homeowners!!!

If Nachi, some Nachi members or anyone else on this crumbling planet can’t see, can’t figure out these facts and see the blllllshttt that is going on in this business, god…please help them before they get sued or lose an inspection fee or 2 and, they could actually HELP their clients/homeowners but many REFUSE to understand all of the facts, and that’s some sorry azz shtt there!

Try reading Mark. I never said this repaired water intrusion.

I was referring to Davis assessment of the wall anchors as “garbage”

They have there there place. Fixing water intrusion is not one of them

Have a nice day.