Originally Posted By: Greg Fretwell This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
We had this basic discussion when Joe had a wad in his panties about a “damaged insulation” beef and we talked about stripping the wire. I defy someone to find a NEC violation with this if it is more than 1/4" from any other energized conductor or the “can” if this isn’t the service disconnect enclosure.
It is sloppy and may be a workmanship problem but it may not be a violation.
If I am inspecting this job I would shame the installer into making this look a little better. In your job I am not sure how you score it.
Babies are not going to die but it sure ain’t pretty.
Originally Posted By: rmoore This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Thanks Greg…
This was the service equipment. I couldn't find anything that would prohibit this and also couldn't see how it would be a problem.
There were some other issues (no bonding screw or strap, double tapped neutrals, and a very rusty looking breaker). I think I'm just going to let the Sparky discover this one rather than "calling" it.
-- Richard Moore
Rest Assured Inspection Services
Seattle, WA
www.rainspect.com
Originally Posted By: gbeaumont This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Hi to all,
Richard, to my eyes it certainly looks "Kosher" as the sec had to have been "circumsized" to make the connection, the only bit that is open to debate is whether this was done by a licensed professional Mohel.     
Originally Posted By: Greg Fretwell This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
If this is the service disconect panel the quick way to make this “more legal” is to put a small busbar right where the splice is, tied to the can and continue the spliced conductor to the neutral bus.
Originally Posted By: Bob Badger This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Charles Palmieri wrote:
If your looking for a violation with this installation, it would appear that the free length of the insulated conductor is less than 6".
Charles that is an interesting point and you definitely made me go to the book to check that out. 
I do not believe we are required to have 6" of free conductor at a panel.
I am not saying it is not a good idea just not a violation.
Quote:
300.14 Length of Free Conductors at Outlets, Junctions, and Switch Points.
At least 150 mm (6 in.) of free conductor, measured from the point in the box where it emerges from its raceway or cable sheath, shall be left at each outlet, junction, and switch point for splices or the connection of luminaires (fixtures) or devices. Where the opening to an outlet, junction, or switch point is less than 200 mm (8 in.) in any dimension, each conductor shall be long enough to extend at least 75 mm (3 in.) outside the opening.
Exception: Conductors that are not spliced or terminated at the outlet, junction, or switch point shall not be required to comply with 300.14.
A panel is not an outlet, junction, switch point for splices or the connection of luminaires (fixtures) or devices.
A panel is mounted in a cabinet or cutout box.
Article 100
Quote:
Panelboard. A single panel or group of panel units designed for assembly in the form of a single panel, including buses and automatic overcurrent devices, and equipped with or without switches for the control of light, heat, or power circuits; designed to be placed in a cabinet or cutout box placed in or against a wall, partition, or other support; and accessible only from the front.
Originally Posted By: dbozek This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
After further review of this subject, I would say that the splice made is not a very good one. I would like to see a split bolt there or a crimp of some sort. That splice shown here is not really a good way to splice that neutral. That widget they used looks like something a phone guy would use to clamp his ground to another ground wire. If there is a saddle in that connector, it might hold but if not, the bolt is just smashing two separate wires together with nothing more than the strands of the wire. Therefore, there may not be full contact with all of the wire, thus eventually causing arcing. Just my 2 cents here.
– You cannot help men permanently by doing for them what they should and could do for themselves. Abraham Lincoln
Originally Posted By: dbozek This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
In fact that is a ground rod clamp…commonly referred to as an “acorn”…and surely is not the proper way to splice any wire except a ground wire to a ground rod.
– You cannot help men permanently by doing for them what they should and could do for themselves. Abraham Lincoln
Originally Posted By: Bob Badger This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
dbozek wrote:
In fact that is a ground rod clamp........commonly referred to as an "acorn"......and surely is not the proper way to splice any wire except a ground wire to a ground rod.
Dennis I thought so too, but what size ground rod would that fit? 
The smallest ground rods are 1/2" and I do not think that connector would fit on.
That aside I agree it is a poor looking connection.
I like either one of these for types mechanical splices.
Originally Posted By: jfarsetta This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
I have seen electricians and the local power company use similar clamps, have questioned them, and have been told by the AHJ that this methodology is acceptable.
– Joe Farsetta
Illigitimi Non Carborundum
"Dont let the bastards grind you down..."
The lug in the picture appears to be part of a LA style copper lug, which should have a mounting foot. Used in the manner shown it essentially is a copper tye wrap. I would consider this a violation of 110.3(B)
