Originally Posted By: kfulton This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
That is good. This one is just as good.
The pockets at each end did not line up, they were off by 3 inches. So, they just cut two of three sections of laminated beam to make it fit. No column under the beam.
Originally Posted By: jmurray This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
jhagarty wrote:
jmurray wrote:
No steel beam- wood contact allowed!
John:
Do you have a specific code reference for this?
No code requirement used but, open for input.
Steel beams and columns should not bear on wood or pieces of brick.
Steel plate shims should have been used and should have been welded together and to the beam. In essence the entire steel beam is as strong as the wood shims in leveling strength IMO. Not to mention they used "screw jacks ( I mean Adjustable steel columns) throughout to support the steel support beams.
-- "A little less conversation and a little more action"!
Originally Posted By: lewens This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
John
I honestly don’t see a problem here. The kneewall is the obvious solution for the wrong height of the basement and if I were putting a steel beam on a pressure treated wood foundation it would be esentially the same sort of set up. The builder didn’t support the beam with shims he used solid wood of the appropriate height. The wood appears to be pressure treated, the only thing I would check is if he endcoated the wood at installation.
Originally Posted By: dbush This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
I’m with Larry. I think that this is a very viable solution to a sub-contractor’s screw up. John, I am still confused by your comment of no Steel to wood contact.
Originally Posted By: ckratzer This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
I agree,the knee-wall is a good solution to the builders ,OH sh#t !, over site in misreading or not reading the blue print specs.
Further there is nothing wrong with setting steel on solid wood.It is when one shims a beam that one should not use little wood scraps or bricks or any material that could break or compress when addig the weight of the house.Steel shims and even washers are acceptable.
The photo shows essentially a short post made of treated lumber and placed in the beam pocket to support the beam.It is a good fix for a really unfortunate situation.The short wall addition doesn’t compromise the integrity of the structure.It’s just a little shorter than short walls you’re probably used to seeing on a step foundation.
Originally Posted By: ccoombs This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
I use wood posts at steel beams all the time. You need to check the crushing due to the point load. However, there are some issues that should be checked with the condition. There should be a positive connection from the beam to post, post to plate or foundation. I don’t see that except in the last picture. And I’m not sure that is an appropriate weld. The other issue would be to make sure each bearing condition has the minimum bearing area.
To be honest, I see a much bigger potential issue. There is no header over the window!
Originally Posted By: jmurray This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
ccoombs wrote:
I use wood posts at steel beams all the time. You need to check the crushing due to the point load. However, there are some issues that should be checked with the condition. There should be a positive connection from the beam to post, post to plate or foundation. I don't see that except in the last picture. And I'm not sure that is an appropriate weld. The other issue would be to make sure each bearing condition has the minimum bearing area.
To be honest, I see a much bigger potential issue. There is no header over the window!
This is the thing with the whole support beam situation.
We know about the wood blocks.
The wood blocks supporting these support beams lie vertical and horizontal. (Not shown in pictures)
The support columns are "adjustable steel columns", screw jacks to some. The columns are not labeled and the screws have not been disabled. I can't tell for certain if these are to be used as permanent columns without proper labeling.
The lengths of the endbearing points (setting on the wood blocks) vary.
Basically there is no uniformity with any of the support beam installation or its components.
As with the positive connection that you mentioned; the one picture is the only occurance (at this point) of the support beams being attached to the wood blocks. I am giving them till the next inspection to finish the rest.
Some or all of this has been approved by the site engineer.
I am not completely convinced that the site engineer is aware of all the methods being employed to carry out his grand plan. In other words I don't believe he has been on site for awhile.
-- "A little less conversation and a little more action"!
Originally Posted By: ccoombs This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
John
Are the "adjustable steel columns" temporary? When stacking drywall on the floor supports should be provided for floor joist and beams. I have never seen "new" construction using screw jacks as anything other than temporary.
Keep up the pressure and keep asking the questions. The client has hired you to watch out for their best interest. If you are not satisfied with the answers or what you see, keep asking......
Originally Posted By: jmurray This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
ccoombs wrote:
John
Are the "adjustable steel columns" temporary? When stacking drywall on the floor supports should be provided for floor joist and beams. I have never seen "new" construction using screw jacks as anything other than temporary.
Keep up the pressure and keep asking the questions. The client has hired you to watch out for their best interest. If you are not satisfied with the answers or what you see, keep asking......
Good luck!
Curtis, there are 2 or 3 companies in the US (that I am aware of) that claim to make an "adjustable steel column" that is touted as permanent. Usually these will be labeled as such.
-- "A little less conversation and a little more action"!
Originally Posted By: mcyr This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Hey, guys, there is nothing wrong with the fix-up mess that you see here.
A steel beam was delegated to support what we are seeing in lieu of a glue lam or TJI or whatever else, and the solid Pressure Treated lumber column post is more that adequate.
Originally Posted By: phinsperger This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
That may mean that the finsh grade can not be as high or the walls have to be thicker or stronger from the original design.
But...
jmurray wrote:
Some or all of this has been approved by the site engineer.
So I guess then from a structural view the point is mute. 
From an energy stand point, however, the home owner is going to have to spend a bit more for increased heating/cooling for the life of the building. There is now more thermal bridging as well as an extra sill. Sill foam gasket doesn't allways seal as well as it should and sill areas are notorious for energy loss.
