Today's Inspection

yes, wooden ducts.

Now the panel

But it has a very pretty kitchen.

I clicked on the link and ran from the room screaming! LOL! :wink:

You can start with the “mix and match” breakers in the panel.

Absolute “diversity”.

Whew !!!

A 4 pole 40 amp breaker, 2 pole 100amp breaker, and 2 30amp single pole breakers. What could these possibly going to?
The 4 pole looks like the main breaker set up from 20yr. old ITE panels.

Is that transite vent pipe from a water heater also Cheryl?
And about 3" of insulation, my guess is you were at the house a little while.:smiley:

good eye Brian! it was a transite vent pipe.

Yeah, I was at the house a little over 4 1/2 hours (it was 1900 sq ft) the house was built in 57, at least 2 additions.

oh, it was listed for 450K. A flip. Pretty on the surface…

Marc you stated “mix and match” breakers in the panel. What do you mean by this being a violation?

Brian you mentioned “transite vent pipe” I haven’t come across this type of venting here, what identifies this as being transite, so I know what I’m looking at. Also are they still acceptable to todays standards, or do you state something about these type of vents? Thanks

Brian Look here
for transite vent pipe. Very common in 40’s 50’s & 60’s homes.

I see Byrant, ITE, and GE breakers in what appears to be a GE panel. Breakers must be rated for the brand of panel they are installed in. Generally (but not always) that means the breaker brand must match the panel brand. There are notable exceptions. I have a chart on my hard drive someplace that I made up several years back that lists what brands and models legally interchange.

There’s probably also a double tap in the meter somplace, as I note the extra red conductor entering with the service conductors that terminates on that 40 amp load management breaker.

Here is a better photo of the vent.

easy to identify with the lable right there. Marc I guess I understand about the mismatched breakers, it’s the, how does one know what breakers are interchangable when on an inspection. I’d need to make a listing to refer to.


It can be quite difficult sometimes to determine this but usually you will see a few hints of mixing breakers.

1.) Notice the name of the breaker itself and the name of the enclosure, Usually the name of the inclosure will match the breaker name but as stated their are some exceptions.

2.) very rarly if ever will you see a compliant panel with 3 or more different brands of OCPD’s located within it…and is a good sign of mproper breakers for the enclosure.

Another issue which is kinda MOOT now since it is an old enclosure but notice this is a 12 circuit panel and it has some tandoms within it…this is also a sign in some panels of exceeding the OCPD rating of the enclosure.

Now some might not know this but Eaton now makes UL Listed breakers to fit MANY panels…see the PDF below

Man you have to say why didn’t others think of that years ago…

I can’t seem to find the chart I posted on here a few months ago…so I will go of my head…

If the breaker fits tight and does not appear too out of place and is not stopping the operation of the panel front or cover the chances are it will be hard for a HI to know the difference…probably best to give them the winning edge of the DOUBT war in regards to that.

However, here are some…

American Switch, Arrow Hart, Challenger(sylvania), GE ( full size only), General switch, Murray ( crouse-hinds), Seimens ( ITE,Gould ) and Westinghouse will FIT in the same load centers…BUT the load center NEEDS to say this and that it allows OTHERWISE on older enclosures it simply may not be something that IS allowed…so it makes it TOUGH for the HI.

Cutler Hammer CH and BR are kinda to their own…FPE is kind a given…but they do make replacements ( Challenger & American made some ) and GE Half Size breakers are only designed for those enclosures that allow them…technically all half sizers or tandoms SHOULD be in a panel that is designed for them…hense the 30/40 and 20/40 type panels you see in the market…

Square D has QO and Homeline…but as you see on the attachment Eaton ( Cutler Hammer ) not makes a UL approved breaker for most all of these…note however if you run into one of the new UL breakers made by EATON in a new consruction …they should have the added UL label from eaton placed in the panel to be truly allowed.

Marc may have some more insite into this…I will look for my chart but again this is very hard…you have to look for things that stand out because a prime example of improper use of a enclosure we see ALOT is the abuse of the tandom breaker in older panels that were never intended to function for these devices.
Hope this was helpful…


Thomas & Betts Breakers -

Also found that T & B is making some breakers that will actually say ON the breaker itself which enclosure it has been UL listed for…so it is getting harder and harder…


Wired For Fire!!