VIDEO--Bowed Basement Wall, Cracks etc

Ummm, see bow? Cracks? huh?

Wall was ONLY damproofed when built. See how those cracks extend down to footing AND, UP above grade.

This is what can happen when heavy equipment is operated near-next to a basement wall, dang right. Wall could also bow in,crack from equipment operator careless backfilling practices or when the soil SETTLES against the bsmt wall in coming months.

Now, how would ANY Inside drain tile or baseboard system w/sump AND grip tite, carbon straps etc…relieve-lessen outside soil pressure,huh? How would any inside system stop/prevent further wall movement-cracks widening?

It can`t, period end of freakin story.

Appears they backfilled with most-all sand BUT, many walls are backfilled with CLAY and thats ALOT more weight/pressure against the outside of a wall.

Video shows em using backhoe to re-dig, careful!
The backhoe ‘could’ cause FURTHER damage to the wall or when they backfill the same soil against the wall later in video, i`m saying it ‘could’, its possible, its has happened. And placing SOIL on BANK near hole is another mistake! Weight of soil on bank could cause cave-in, not always but it does happen so, why risk it

Look at bsmt wall while theyre re-digging.....check THIN-damproofing that was applied with NO visqueen/no protection. Around the 2:29 mark, see thin damproofing-asphalt along TOP of wall and at CORNER? You dont see much-if any asphalt anywhere else do ya. Thats what happens, it breaks down and/or the asphalt will come off on the backfilled soil leaving the wall with no protection against water/moisture.

Homeowner, and others ‘THINK’ the thin asphalt is still on basement wall but often it has
come off, on the backfilled soil. Even when thin asphalt is allowed to set/harden it WILL
break down, isn`t much on wall to begin with…SHEESH!

Damproofing is basically USELESS! Yeah yeah, some say its enough, i say blccchtt! Again, LOOK at the dang wall, look at where they applied/sprayed/rolled on thin azz asphalt. Telling ya, it comes off on the SOIL in many cases. Some builders wanna backfill too dang quick, asphalt hasnt set/hardened yet PLUS, they dont PROTECT it. Change the stupid CODES will ya please! Its NOT whats best for the…HOMEONERS.

Anchor-piering and trying to pull-yank wall ‘could’ WEAKEN a wall, giving it LESS lateral resistance in future.Yes, straightening the wall will make it ‘look’ fine/better but wall may have less lateral strength going forawrd.

Also, yanking a wall back into place most often causes MORE cracks in the wall, better Waterproof the ENTIRE wall fella`s!!! And better use hydraulic cement in cracks but alos along that cold joint/footing. The cracks run down to footing, hello?

They show a guy in trench, could cave in at any time, better watch yer azz mister, especially when they are using equipment close to ditch.

Around the 5:00 mark, they begin to backfill, they did NOT Waterproof the dammmmm wall!!! No hydraulic cement used in/on cracks,along cold joint/footing, wall not waterproofed, UN-be-lievable!!! Experts? ](*,)

Did a structural engineer and/or city inspector ‘OK’ this? NO waterproofing? Holy shtt! I`d hold em LIABLE for any future damage/leaks, dang skippy.

Same soil, luckily sand is backfilled but its going to SETTLE. When it does its going to cause more lateral pressure against the wall, a wall that wasn`t waterproofed.

No way this holds up for homeowner, will have leak(s) and quite possibly further movement,crack(s) widening etc. GOT MILK?


The problem is that the pressure from the compacting process gets transmitted through the soil to the wall. Basement walls have been known to crack or fall over while earth is being dumped against them OR compacted around them’

A better subtitle would be ‘Heres what some builders dont know about foundation problems’ :wink:

-Careful on the Construction Site

When there`s a heavy load on the ground next to a foundation, some of the pressure is transferred to the wall.During construction, bulldozers and trucks that come near a basement wall can add enough surcharge pressure to damage the wall.A new building being built near an existing basement can also increase the underground pressure and damage the existing foundation.

6th-7th paragraphs… <- they understand the importance of backfilling w/gravel

got milk?

The Mod Squad w/Peggy baby

dumb chtt supervisor crying :mrgreen:

just because some goofball city inspector spent 2 1/2 minutes and
signed off doesn`t necessarily mean chtt](,) ](,) ](*,)

LAST sentence ‘In fact, the current chief inpsector is a former
homebuilder whose building license who revoked for shoddy construction’

Ummm, ill take the HIs report over the city inspector

Oh, since i`m on city inspectors :mrgreen:

…hey, g dammitt Mister city inspector, why do MANY you people
and the city/township/state…whatever, WHY do OK the use of
flexible plastic perforated DRAIN TILE at depths GREATER than 1.2

I brought this up to Grosee Pointe city fella upon HIS inspection of
MY g dang job;-) …instead of TRYING to talk to him nicely (never
works) we SHOWED him the following, see PIC`s 4,5, 6 please…

may have to click ‘BACK’ on right side, dammmitttt lolol

Thats about 200 lbs on top of cheap tile, how often ya think tile will hold up to weight of backfill. If ya believe so much in bs outside drain tile then maybe, just maybe one shouldnt use `n OK the use of it where it could collapse,flatten out.

He says, ‘wow i didn`t know how weak tile was’

Asked him why they/city still okays the use of this trash on new construction, he said he didn`t know.#-o #-o #-o

Asked him if they ever thought to see what maufacturer says instead
of believing Mr builder all the time, he says if the builders use it then far
as he knew must be ok ](,) ](,) ](,) ](,) ](,) ](,) ](,) ](,) ](*,)

here`s what one manufacturer says…

scroll down to … --Selecting Perforated Pipe

If theyre gonna, AHEM, inspect MY shtt then, please bring more knowledge to job site, otherwise, get the shtt away from me will ya please! Dont need some goofball looking over my shoulder for 30 seconds
and trying to tell me how to do the job right. Almost all dont ask/look/care at basement wall-cracks, dont ask/look if hydraulic cement is used or
what grade-thickness of asphalt is applied or visqueen or if contactor
is hauling clay/roots/other debris away and backfilling w/peastone.
The drain tile is all that matters huh? Pure NONSENSE

Have seen some city inspectors that are in their mid 20`s, NO, not
crapping on the young guns, we all have a starting point but come on!
And be on TIME will ya please, J krist! Hey, next hole that caves-in
due to waiting on the city inspector to show up to inspect drain tiles
for 15 seconds is GETTING in the dang hole and RE-digging it! :mrgreen:

Your STUPID outside drain tile inspection is blllchtttt! THEY actually
think the outside tiles is/was the homeowner`s problem, why water
was coming through crack/wall and onto floor…PATHETIC!!!


If that were my house being built, the builder would be having a major problem with me continuing construction any further, unless they poured a new foundation.

Even after the repair, you wouldn’t see me going through with the sale.

Homework Productions with Bob F…hi Bob

Bob, how about getting RID OF what is CAUSING the wall to bow,crack,leak.

…expanding/contracting SOIL `n possible roots against wall! sheesh!

He says economical? Wonder how much he charged? Looks like wall is
about 24’ long so, to hand dig,get-rid-of soil/roots,waterproof `n
backfill w/all peastone would be about $2,150!!! Bet it cost MORE than
$2,150 and NOTHING was done to relieve/lessen outside pressure AND…
CRACKS are STILL OPEN OPEN OPEN on the outside for Krist sake.

So, his answer is to LEAVE the soil/roots against wall, put in one (1)
wing wall, 1 or 2 fiberglass strips and tuckpoint cracks on inside? HA!!

A wing wall ‘might’ help a LITTLE,maybe…but only help in THAT area,
could only help a little where wing wall meets bsmt wall. Soil STILL there!
Possible roots still there! Cracks STILL open, dammmittttt. :mrgreen:

And Bob, the pressure is called horizontal/lateral hydrostatic pressure.

This wall WILL STILL Leak and may CONTINUE to move inward and
with cracks widening.

The Ghoul `n Froggy

The NUT Lady on Johnny Carson

FAT Albert hey hey HEY!

911 call, Joe hit a DEER, needs a bamulance,who gets the deer,me or the dog… ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha!!

Block wall, there are cracks in the wall…on OUTSIDE of the wall.

So again n againn again, installing an interior drain tile system will
NOT stop further water from entering through those cracks that are
outside, theyre still open. Water WILL continue to enter into the hollow blocks, gotta eliminate the water/moisture to stop mold,efflorescencen
radon/insects can still enter.

They`ll drill holes in the blocks, you should be able to see at least 1
near middle of pic, first row/course of blocks up from floor.

Some of these butheads will bs people as to why they drill holes and
some of these buthead installers actually believe the BLLLCHHHTTT.
For instance, theyll tell the HO that one reason they drill holes is to relieve pressure,theyll say it relieves hydrostatic pressure in/against
the wall…Bllllchtttttttttttttttttttttttt!

The only thing drilling holes will do is allow water that CONTINUES to
ENTER the wall through cracks etc on the OUTSIDE, out and into their
lil water-DIVERTING system.

Pressure against the Outside of the wall is…STILL there. They didn`t
remove the soil and the build-up of WATER IN the SOIL. If there are
roots against the wall then the roots are STILL there.

IF there is a high level of RADON IN THE SOIL then IT TOO will continue to
enter, CHTT, radon can enter hollow BLOCKS THROUGH the PORES,
doesnt need a crack(s) on outside. Cracks provide MORE entryways for radon to enter into basement. And how about freakin TERMITES
or other insects, cracks still OPEN, they can STILL get inside the house.

Sometimes these companies will place a sheeting against inside of wall,
sometimes itll be a partial sheeting on lower-blocks and other times itll be from floor level all the way up.

This CHTT doesnt do diddley either! If anything, it HIDES/conceals further mold,efflorescence. Itll hide further deterioration of blocks,it`ll
hide cracks or the WIDENING of cracks. And what do ya think will love
that dark/damp/wet area BEHIND this sheeting, yeah, insects.

Pic of partial sheeting on lower blocks…


Anchor Plates???

See plates near middle of wall and cracks at/near corner by window

They say crack ‘repairs’…well, if company didnt waterproof cracks on the outside then id hardly call it a ‘repair’…nonsense.

Says…‘plates on wall are there to reinforce the wall’.
Hmmm lets see, from ‘OTHER’ PICs posted, seems to me this HO was BSd into a supposed ‘need’ for this anchor crap, from pics posted,
the REAL NEED was to…STOP water from entering, to waterproof
leaky-cracked area(s) on the outside AND help relieve lateral-horizontal
hydrostatic SOIL pressure.

If they were worried about any wall movement/cracks widening then
REMOVING expanding-contracting SOIL n any roots, waterproofing the walln backfilling w/all gravel is what was needed, NOT anchors.

And ill bet whoever installed this inside system and the anchors charged MORE MORE MORE than what it would have cost to waterproof the wall outside.The anchors 'MIGHT' help reinforce a small part of wall where it is againt wall, those few BLOCKS...a lil, might! Hope they arent assuming(were told/BS`d) 1/2 or the entire wall is NOW REINFORCED…

TIRED of that CHTT too, tired of hearing crap like… ‘Oh, exterior
waterproofing is very expensive’ and other trash.

So, now they STILL have expanding/contracting SOIL AGAINST wall,
and possibility of roots, STILL have WATER ENTERING into the block-
wall so mold/efflorescence will MOST-likely return and the possibility of
radon/insects entering,pretty much right where they started yet they`re
out X-amount of cash.

Says…‘wall is anchored about 30’ out’…HEY, did they tell ya that
WHERE they pffft ‘anchored’ into the SOIL that, the soil can settle…
even just a TAD, guess what that can do. They think the SOIL will
never move in coming years, never expand `n contract again? wtf

And, they ran rods THROUGH the wall…HEY, that created more
OPENINGS on the outside of the stupid block wall!!! Did they at-least
dig down,looks like 2’…and seal/waterproof those parts of wall,huh?
Even if they did, cracks on outside of wall STILL open,open,open.

They SHOULD get a mostly-DRY-FLOOR.

Did the contractor guarantee there will be NO wet/damp areas-spots
on wall, did they guarantee no future mold, did they tell these people
the wall will never move, cracks will never widen.

Scroll to ----Basement Walls, damage…cause and resolution

Marine clay, whatever clay
gravelly soils.
NOT NOT NOT to attach a few wall anchors and LEAVE clay soil against wall,
and… W A T E R P R O O F the dang wall!

Scroll way-down to —TREES and Your Foundation and ----WET BASEMENTS
No, don`t agree w/everything they say BUT, they are right when they say…

‘Strong foundations are sometimes damaged by small ROOTS that entered
tiny cracks, then grew and expanded the crack.Large roots can push
bulges into the foundation wall’

‘Interior perimeter drains and sumps treat the symptoms but NOT
the problem. You`ll STILL have open water in your basement,thus
the possibility of a musty odor and excessive humidity’

—Cunning Contractor Video

Homeowner hired ‘Timmy’ …apparently a masonry `n roofing contractor to
…AHEM…waterproof her basement.Masonry & roofing does not equal
basement waterproofing.

Looks like he dug a lil 18"trench (PFFFFFTTTT) along part of house and was
then going to apply Drylok/paint on inside of wall,looks like they
parged part of inside-wall…for $3,800!!!

incompetent…lacking qualification or ability

fraud…deceit,trickery,sharp practice, perpetrated for profit or to gain
some unfair or dishonest advantage

Schwetty balls…‘they`re bigger than i expected’

#-o #-o #-o #-o #-o #-o #-o

Are you NUTZZZ? ](*,)

Putting soil…MORE WEIGHT on-near the bank can cause the bank to
CAVE IN!!! lololol jesus krist man! YOU can get somebody killed.

see guy squating down there? ZOOM in! UN-BE-lievable.
Risking the kids LIFE if the bitch bank caves in, a bank YOU put more weight on! Risking his life and tell ya right now dammmitt, that drain tile has NOTHING to to do with any wall leaking,any leak along cold joint,blcchttt! And the kid is earning what? Maybe $8-10 per hour, risking his azz for OTHERS wholl make a TON, incompetent others at that.

They prolly gonna backfill w/most-all of SAME garbage! nimrods
And looks like damproofing, NOT Waterproofing.
A thinly applied asphalt/tar, sprayed or rolled on…good luck with that!

The WHO/Can ya see the real me, can ya, can ya?

Can ya see how some who only install Inside Systems can BLLCHHTTT
homeowners. Say basement is finished, can`t see walls, water comes
onto FLOOR along cold joint/cove.

Scroll down a lil for pic`s of crack/leak

These salespeople/owners often tell YOU crap like… “Oh, you have
hydrostatic pressure under floor and water is coming up along wall and
you need a drain tile system and sump to control it”…and other trash
and at same time they often say CHTT like "Exterior waterproofing
doesnt work/last"...."Exterior waterproofing is very costly and will ruin your stupid landscaping" etc etc. Cost to fix this would be about $850-975, depends on depth to footingn couple other things.
Hmmmm, $5,000-$17,000 versus $900 ish

They wanna take a big smelly dump on exterior waterproofing,
manipulate the chtt outta ya, lie to ya and OFTEN NOT define
where the dammm water is first entering. They may even say…
“Oh, no need to take paneling/drywall down, we know what your problem is”


Should be able to understand how these homeowners and many
others who have finished bsmt can be MISLED/lied to.

You need to take the drywall/paneling off! If ya have a poured wall
you may ONLY have a leaky rod hole or 2 or ya may only have water
that first gets in through openings around basement window and if
you took the time to take the stupid piece or 2 of drywall off youd see water stain(s) UP HIGHn running down on poured wall.
Why let these azz ho`s rip you off. ](,) ](,) ](,) ](,) ](,) ](,) ](*,)

LIAR…Freddie `n Queen

Got Rodents, got milk?

Might want to seal those openings on outside of house

Hm inspection pics, crack/leak other chtt

Why was the foundation backfilled prior to framing?

Mr H,

some do lots of dumb chtt, how about this guy…tells homeowners
he is Mr Builder/Mr Engineer when he isn`t dog chtt

scroll down a lil…Bad News Builder Gets HAMMERED :mrgreen:

Yellow Jacket Damage

Ya might wanna keep chtt sealed up…Outside

Says…Basement wall repair
i guess some might call it that. its damproofing…hope it lasts a lil while,%20Wide%20World%20of%20Sports.wav

Spanning the internet to bring
you a constant variety of crap, the thrill of a dry basement and
the agony of a wet/moldy basement…this is Johnnie Bubba`s
Wide World of Waterproofing!!!

vid Drought & rains lead to flooded basements

Reporter says HO ‘met with a waterproofing expert’…Jeff :-k …start date 6/2003

…‘failed to respond to 1 or more consumer complaints’ ](,) ](,) ](,) ](,)

Hey buddy Jeff, take care of the complaints FIRST…then move on…ok

And that vertical crack has most-likely existed for quite some time.
Ho may have tried raising the all-mighty grade and maybe extend
downspout extensions 1 or 2 miles away from dang house, found out
it doesn`t waterproof an existing crack #-o #-o #-o #-o #-o #-o #-o

Johnny Carson & The ANIMALS

cracks in block walls

patching cracks on inside…some will call it… ‘reparing’ Pftttt, does
not,will not waterproof the cracks that are on outside of wall.

same cracks ya see inside are on outside of wall, are open.

service lines enter bsmt wall, most often there are GAPS on outside
where the lines come-through-wall, patching the inside doesn`t do shtt,

so if your buying a house and see ANYTHING like this, any kind of
bllchtt patch job…repair???, ya need to inquire if exterior wall(s)
was waterproofed `n backfilled correctly.

you may see that interior wall(s) was recently painted, ya need to
take some TIME `n look at walls up close. seller may tell ya they
there are/were no leaks they know of and simply wanted to make
walls ‘look’ better. This is more often than not a good BLLCHHTT-Story.

and then there are those who will put paneling to hide/conceal wall(s)

same shtt w/floor, sometimes seller will try `n fill cracks in floor, then
paint or put down some cheapo rug/carpet/floor covering.

cracks in these walls have existed for quite some time. some lawyers-
sellers will try/LIE and say shtt like 'Oh, we didnt know those cracks were there' ...or...'Oh, those cracks could have just occurred'. Yeah, a crack(s) can occur kinda suddenly but not usually the case, not when house happens to be for-sale. I say, dont listen to lawyer who may say its a
waste of time…fk that.

He/she just doesn`t wanna bother! Not much MONEY in it for THEM,
well fk them!!! :wink: Hear that SHTTTTTT all-the-time.

Take pics of cracks/leaks/bowing wall/mold/efflorescence etc and find a
lic/ins/expd contractor wholl help ya try `n get some/all money
to fix the dang wall/crack/leak that was left for YOU, crack(s) that
already existed and were not disclosed. Can take pics of the cracks
on outside of wall too, its MOST often very obvious cracks have
existed for quite some time, alot longer than last 6 months/yr while
house was for sale.

more pics of basement/walls, looks like an INSIDE system was installed
…good luck w/that. The efflorescence,mold etc will NOT go away.
Cracks still open on outside. But some will never listen.

Cameron Diaz in ‘The Mask’… Got MILK?

Cameron and a friend lookin good

Jeff Daniels, TURBO LAX

Steve Martin, The Jerk…ukelele song, you belong to me

](,) ](,) ](,) ](,) ](,) ](,) ](*,)

same shtt different day, experts eh? #-o

G Carlin/War

G Carlin/Guys named Todd

G Carlin/Answering machines

–Wet basements, Carson Dunlop Reports #-o

they say…‘poor surface drainage is one of the main causes of basement
leaks’ …Really?:-k

so go ahead and raise the grade, get longer downspout extensions,mud-
jack slabs etc, that`ll SOLVE water,moisture from entering huh? Nonsense.

Surface drainage…attempt to divert ALL water away from house/basement
walls by means sloping ground,seal where driveway meets foundation wall.

Again dang it, adding soil and sloping it away can divert SOME water a lil
further away but the water that has been diverted 5-10’ away will STILL
go into the SOIL at that point, can go down through soil but also travel-
percolate SIDEWAYS through soil, dammm right.

On a drive side, if ya mud-jacked several slabs so now the slabs are
pitched away, where ya think the water that now is along EDGE of the
driveway goes? It goes down and SIDEWAYS, it can go through-the-soil
sideways UNDER the stupid mudjacked slabs back towards the basement
wall! Dang right! Have only seen this occur for 30 years.

Homeowners been told to get a NEW driveway so it slopes away OR,
mudjack the slabs, STILL Leak, still had water enter basement on longer-
heavier rains! Theyve spent thousands on a bllchtttt story from someone who didnt recommend finding/locating the actual problem(s),
the entryways which allow water-moisture to enter in the first place.

Diverting SURFACE water doesn`t DIVERT SUB-surface water!! wtf

WAKE…UP!!! ](,) ](,) ](,) ](,) ](*,)

By trying to divert SOME surface water a bit further away doesn`t divert
ALL sub-surface water away!

Yes, HOs need gutters and downspout extensions but g dammmittt, this isnt WHY water enters the freakin` basement!

It isn`t… ‘one of the main causes of basement leaks’

The downspout EXTENSIONS, ok so you`ve added a 15’ piece, now what?
Where ya think THe water coming outta the extension goes, huh???

It goes down and SIDEWAYS through the soil, sub-surface soil! Ya think
it ALL goes straight DOWN? ](*,)

And that is only diverting SOME water that comes off the dang ROOF!
When rain drops outta the SKY :mrgreen: …it still lands on the ground next to
the house. Ok, so you`ve raised the grade next to the house and water
that used to puddle right-next to house is now being diverted a few feet
away due to you adding and sloping some top soil. WHERE is THAT water
gonna go? Down and sideways, sheesh.

Unless yer lucky enough to have sand that was used as backfill when
house was built, then most-often water will go down and sideways.
Even with having all/mostly sand water can still go horizontally through it
but it`ll take a good long rain for one to leak in basement, like on a
drive side.Have done quite a few drive sides that had all sand backfilled
against wall, still leaked on longer rains because they were…CRACKS!

Roots can grow right up against a wall and can carry water…right up
against the wall. If there is a crack or loose parging then water can enter
through the wall onto the bsmt floor. Roots you can`t see, not surface-
roots, SUB-surface roots.

Injection costs usually $400-600+ for crack in poured wall, well dont forget WHAT may have CAUSED the stupid crack, pressure on Outside. Ya may wanna get RID of it and injections dont relieve/lessen soil
pressure, tree roots, a porch footing or driveway that is leaning
against the wall.

Injections, shttttt, think of the itty bitty labor, and one person doing it
versus, hand digging all the way down, hauling all soil away, backfilling etc.
OF COURSE it should cost LESS, alot less than $400-600 if ya ask my azz.

But there is no labor n very little materials invloved PLUS, it isnt
relieving any outside pressure which DOES cause many cracks, thats why
about 50% or so RE-leak.

Then they talk about DRAIN tile next to footing, and that the tiles can
‘OFTEN’ be damaged or clogged by roots.

If they are saying that clogged/damaged EXTERIOR drain tiles cause water
to enter through the wall then they are misinformed, period.

Damaged or clogged EXTERIOR tiles have NOTHING to do with water
that enters through a crack in a basement wall and winds up on floor
along cold joint/cove, zero! Tired of that SHTTTTT Too.

Lastly they say an… Interior drain system costs is 1/3 to 1/4 of the
cost of Exterior work. More misinformation!!!

Stop the Blllllchtttttttttttttttttttt PLEASE!

They say exterior is $8,000-15,000 so 1/3 of that would be…
$2,666-5,000 and 1/4 would be $2,000-$3,750

$2,000 to 5,000 for an inside system huh? Better check those costs!

Many charge $7,000 to $15,000 for an inside system!!!

So WHERE is the great savings? Less expensive huh? wtf

Cont`d :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

This has more Facts, not all :mrgreen:

If ya click the larger-image for vertical `n horizontal cracks it should
register what horizontal-lateral soil pressure can cause…cracks/bowing.

So, some will say the answer or better method is to use wall anchors or
carbon straps or a buttress wall on inside?

To LEAVE the soil against the wall???
To LEAVE possibility of roots against the wall???
To LEAVE the posibility of a porch footing leaning against wall, can cause
wall to crack, bow in…leave all that shtt there huh.

And NOT Waterproof the exterior crack(s)???

Just because one may not get water on floor, for awhile,sometimes many
years…this does not mean there isn`t some MOISTURE entering through
the wall, through loose parging, through the JOINTS between the blocks.
Why ya think some efflorescence,mold appears on basement walls,huh?

They talk about water-penetration can DETERIORATE the mortar in
foundations, reducing its strength `n ultimately allowing shifting to occur.
And usually its a slow,long term process.

Well, Ya need to STOP the water from entering THROUGH block-joints
on the OUTSIDE, fk me, come on!!!

Why then, are many recommending an Inside drain tile or Baseboard
System w/a sump??? WHY??? It does NOT STOP
FURTHER WATER from entering!!! HELLO?

Since expanding-contracting soil against a wall can cause cracks,leak a wall to bow inward AND, roots can push against a wall and cause a crack,leakn wall to bow in then HOW can one respond/recommend
carbon straps, wall anchors.buttress wall and/or an Inside drain tile system?

If water can cause DETERIORATION of the joints then common sense
says ya need to STOP the water from entering the joints.

Again, just LEAVE the soil or roots or footing that is causing wall to crack,
leak or even bow, just leave that shtt there huh? The wall and the JOINTS
will DETERIORATE MORE!!! Water is still going to ENTER through the crack,
through joints.

If some are going to continue to make BS recommendations on Bsmt
Waterproofing then homeowners need to SUE SUE each one of em,hold em
accountable, hey…they told you they`re experts. Got MILK???

G Carlin/Proud Parents-Motivation book,seminars

might wanna locate `n repair all direct openings on the outside

looks like a crack, zoom in. Fill in w/pressure treated lumber? ok, whatever you want