So I was doing a wind mit today and there was evidence of a previous wind mit.
There were also these yellow sticky rulers on the trusses. Now, I’ve done quite a number of these and I usually just measure and mark the inches between the marks and hold up a ruler to it while taking a picture.
I thought it’d be useful if I had 3 hands, but since I don’t, the sticky tape might be useful.
Anyone use these? Got a cheap source for them? The Amazon ones are stupid price for what you get. I need like a mile of this stuff in like 3 foot lengths.
In my prior life, I spent a lot of my company’s money on supplies. The only reason I didn’t use Uline more often was that McMaster-Carr and WB-Mason were typically same day delivery. Order by 10am, get by 3-4pm. Can’t beat it. I have to think over the 22 years I worked there, I had to have over spent at least $500k more than necessary because of delivery.
The issue was that when we needed it, we needed it. If it was holding up production, it cost the company at least $10,000/hour in lost productivity and much more if you add in labor costs. That McMaster premium was worth it.
So a Wind Mitigation insurance inspection is all about determining how the roof is attached to the deck, how the deck is attached to the truss/rafters, how the trusses are attached to the walls and how the rest of the building can resist wind.
One of the measurements is that no fastener that nails the decking to the trusses is greater than 6 inches apart. You can read into the specifics, but basically you want to see less than 6 inches from one to the next.
You have to use a Zircon Metalliscanner MT6 or MT7 or M40 to determine the location of the nails inside the truss.
You have to take pictures of everything that you claim is compliant to a hurricane standard. Hence, marks on the beam and holding a ruler up to it.
You also have to show the type of a fastener, hopefully it’s an 8D. There is a new standard 8D ring shank that is thicker, but I don’t think it’s being required yet, or something. I’m not seeing it being asked on the wind mit form so if it’s an 8D we’re good to go on that bit. You measure the nails via finding a shiner. A shiner is a “miss”.
I always found it fun when you’re around a framer and they are putting deck on. One guy running a nailer will get razzed by another guy who calls out “miss” because it sounds different. A good nailer won’t get many misses.
I think there’s some irony in the fact that OJ’s house is quite “missile resistant”. lol.
I’m sorta glad I’m where I’m at. I don’t have to bother checking windows and doors because not a single one is anything special. I only see garage doors with the extra bracing and additional lag bolts.
Here’s a hint for anyone moving to Florida. If the house has a Gable on it that’s greater than 10% of the perimeter, find a different house. You’ll wonder why your neighbor in his gable’d house pays so much more than you in insurance.
So the guy that I learned from did it that way. He was a FABI and ASHI CMI who did HI as a career for 20+ years. Maybe those other groups do it? I dunno, seems easier to read at first glance so maybe the underwriters prefer it? Shrug.
There’s also that whole “trust but verify” thing. I guess over time there will be a lot of truss graffiti.
IMO, that says it all. How do you know the markings are accurate or even ‘honest’? I could see a disgruntled homeowner that had past issues with their insurance getting up there and marking a truss or three to ‘con’ the inspector. In a way, this is no different than a homeowner or contractor performing shoddy repairs to save money fixing buyers negotiated demands.
TRUST NO ONE!
Buy an "inside’ folding rule. Most don’t know the difference. An inside folding wood rule has the markings so that it will lay flat and read from left to right even if not fully unfolded. Dominic’s picture shows an “outside” marked folding rule.